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Where Lizards Go to Die 
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Where Lizards Go to Die 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Heidi Chapin 2002
Page Views: 7,781
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Nov 28, 2006
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The no hands rest under the roof


Located a short distance to the left of the waterfall where the main trail meets the cliff at the right end of a large cave/alcove. Climb up junky rock and up the right side of a large block. Continue up the blocky face and roof system to a final roof below a big, left-facing corner (this corner is a good way to identify the route -- it begins about 50' off the deck). The crux is pulling this roof up and into the corner. Follow the corner and face left of the corner up to bolted anchors out right below the high roof.


Standard rack.

Photos of Where Lizards Go to Die Slideshow Add Photo
Looking at what lizards has in store
Looking at what lizards has in store
One of the amazing roofs
One of the amazing roofs
Mason Mayer after pulling the roof. Onsight on a shady day
Mason Mayer after pulling the roof. Onsight on a s...
Comments on Where Lizards Go to Die Add Comment
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By Rob Dillon
Dec 15, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Look for a large hueco at ground level to start the route. Anchors are hidden.

.10a at Red Rocks, maybe, but 5.9 seems to be the consensus around here.

This is a good one!

By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Mar 20, 2007

Great route with a super cool rest before the can practically squeeze both legs in for a no hands rest...check out the river behind you...say hi to your belayer...then fire it!

By yevquest
From: Southeast,US
Feb 9, 2009

Super fun jug haulin'. Improbably easy given the angle. Stays dry in a decent rain.

By Tom Fralich
From: Fort Collins, CO
Dec 7, 2012

Way more rests than it would appear from the ground and the gear is great.

By DennisL
Mar 12, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Absolutely amazing - your sport-climbing buddies will love you for putting this one up! If you're a 5.9 leader at T-Wall, don't be intimidated by the guidebook rating - you can do it! Watch the rope-drag and milk the rests.