A great pitch in its own right and adds height to whatever initial climb you use to approach the starting ledge. A Red River Classic. The standard climb is 5.9+, and a second pitch of aid (reportedly A2/C2) can be done to reach the top of the rock.
Where Lizards Dare is the obvious "flip-flop dihedral" starting from the ledge at just below the mid-height of the cliff, above the climb Snake. THe climb starts as a shallow right-facing corner and as the wall on the left reclines and on the right inclines, the climb crosses a flux point where the dihedral becomes left-facing.
The climb takes gear from small nuts to hand sized. There is a bolted anchor at the top of the pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Where Lizards Dare, from the ground...
Get out your bags of tricks.
Run out of tricks? Sometimes brute force is neces...
Climber: Kevin Wagner
Photo Credit: Alex Mitchell
|Comments on Where Lizards Dare
|By Jeremy Steck|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 17, 2007
This spectacular climb can easily be combined with Calypso III to make a nice 100 Ft. climb. A 60M rope will get you back to the deck in 1 rap...with 1 Ft. of rope to spare.
|By max seigal|
Apr 27, 2008
this is an excellent line, however it is very stiff for a 5.9+, in fact it is harder than several 10a's at the red. Maybe it is finger size dependent (mine hardly fit). either way it is definetely worth doing.
|By Jeffrey Gagliano|
From: Pennsburg, PA
Apr 7, 2010
Stiff for the grade is an understatement. Felt as hard as The Winter 10+ at the Gunks, which I just did the previous weekend.
A spectacular 10c pitch, very sustained.
|By robert pepper|
Apr 7, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b A2
"Blue Runner" 5.9 is highly recommended as pitch one, then walk 25 yards climber left to the WLD belay.
5.9+ = 5.10c
A physical technical and memorable second.
|By Harrison Dreves|
From: Nashville, TN
Nov 4, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b A2
The finger crack (if you can call it that), looks a lot better from the ground.
As a solid 5.9 trad leader, I definitely felt that this pushed my limits.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 4, 2010
5.9+ is a pretty famous sandbag grade at the gorge. Try 'Jungle Beat' too... another 5.9+.
|By Chad Wagner|
Jul 10, 2012
The ole RRG 9+! what a fantastic adventure. After climbing 8+ and 9+ in the Red, most places feel soft. Fantastic sandbagging goin on in the early days. Jungle Beat is the classic multipitch in the Red, next to the Quest. Watch those 8+ grades. They are sure to pack a punch.