Where Lizards Dare
|2,258 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 70 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10 A2 [details]|
|FA: ||P1: Ed Pearsol, '77. P2: Greg Smith, '84.|
|Season: ||Faces S by SE|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Feb 14, 2007|
Casey wondering how to get his fingers in the crac...
A great pitch in its own right and adds height to whatever initial climb you use to approach the starting ledge. A Red River Classic. The standard climb is 5.9+, and a second pitch of aid (reportedly A2/C2) can be done to reach the top of the rock.
Where Lizards Dare is the obvious "flip-flop dihedral" starting from the ledge at just below the mid-height of the cliff, above the climb Snake. THe climb starts as a shallow right-facing corner and as the wall on the left reclines and on the right inclines, the climb crosses a flux point where the dihedral becomes left-facing.
The climb takes gear from small nuts to hand sized. There is a bolted anchor at the top of the pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Where Lizards Dare, from the ground...
Get out your bags of tricks.
Run out of tricks? Sometimes brute force is neces...
|Comments on Where Lizards Dare
|By Jeremy Steck|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 17, 2007
This spectacular climb can easily be combined with Calypso III to make a nice 100 Ft. climb. A 60M rope will get you back to the deck in 1 rap...with 1 Ft. of rope to spare.
|By max seigal|
Apr 27, 2008
this is an excellent line, however it is very stiff for a 5.9+, in fact it is harder than several 10a's at the red. Maybe it is finger size dependent (mine hardly fit). either way it is definetely worth doing.
|By Joe Lee|
From: tucson, az
Mar 20, 2010
Pretty burly for the grade. I second doing this climb as one pitch beginning with Calypso III. If you place some pro deep in the alcove before moving to the dihedral, might want to runner it with a double length sling to reduce drag. This thing is sweet.
|By Jeffrey Gagliano|
From: Pennsburg, PA
Apr 7, 2010
Stiff for the grade is an understatement. Felt as hard as The Winter 10+ at the Gunks, which I just did the previous weekend.
A spectacular 10c pitch, very sustained.
|By robert pepper|
Apr 7, 2010
rating: 5.10+ A2
"Blue Runner" 5.9 is highly recommended as pitch one, then walk 25 yards climber left to the WLD belay.
5.9+ = 5.10c
A physical technical and memorable second.
|By Harrison Dreves|
From: Nashville, TN
Nov 4, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c A2
The finger crack (if you can call it that), looks a lot better from the ground.
As a solid 5.9 trad leader, I definitely felt that this pushed my limits.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 4, 2010
5.9+ is a pretty famous sandbag grade at the gorge. Try 'Jungle Beat' too... another 5.9+.
|By Chad Wagner|
Jul 10, 2012
The ole RRG 9+! what a fantastic adventure. After climbing 8+ and 9+ in the Red, most places feel soft. Fantastic sandbagging goin on in the early days. Jungle Beat is the classic multipitch in the Red, next to the Quest. Watch those 8+ grades. They are sure to pack a punch.