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Where is that video of the climbing rope getting severed? ! ?
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By danielwhore
Dec 11, 2012

So on some big wall forum post (or mtnproj or supertopo - who knows - ONE of the many climbing forums I read while in class..) I came across this video of a guy demonstrating how jugging a fixed line running over a 90 degree edge can SEVER the rope after like 6 or 7 small bounces.. it also showed the same guy demonstrating how rubbing the rope against an edge during a pendulum can saw the rope in half after just a few goes.. does anybody know what video I'm talking about?? I wanna show a friend. Could not find it on youtube or anywhere..

PS in 'real life' my rope seems to rub against edges like crazy on rappel and even while jugging - and it's never even cut the sheath, let alone sawed it in half! How likely is this to actually happen? I wish I had the video so I could POST IT so people could watch it.. SOMEONE FIND IT PLEASE!! I don't wanna die. Thanks ;)


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By 20 kN
From Hawaii
Dec 11, 2012

danielwhore wrote:
So on some big wall forum post (or mtnproj or supertopo - who knows - ONE of the many climbing forums I read while in class..) I came across this video of a guy demonstrating how jugging a fixed line running over a 90 degree edge can SEVER the rope after like 6 or 7 small bounces.. it also showed the same guy demonstrating how rubbing the rope against an edge during a pendulum can saw the rope in half after just a few goes.. does anybody know what video I'm talking about?? I wanna show a friend. Could not find it on youtube or anywhere.. PS in 'real life' my rope seems to rub against edges like crazy on rappel and even while jugging - and it's never even cut the sheath, let alone sawed it in half! How likely is this to actually happen? I wish I had the video so I could POST IT so people could watch it.. SOMEONE FIND IT PLEASE!! I don't wanna die. Thanks ;)

It is on Petzl's website, they were the ones who filmed it.


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By danielwhore
Dec 11, 2012

Hey! I just looked all over their site, can't find it. I contacted them to ask where I can find it.. I will post it once I do but in the meantime, anybody know which vid I'm talking about? post the link if you do :)


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By csproul
From Rancho Cordova, CA
Dec 11, 2012
Summit of Wolf's Head with Pingora in the background

I pretty much core shot a rope jugging one pitch on it (2 people) when I ran it over an edge near the anchor.


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By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Dec 11, 2012
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.

Here.

The vid is at the bottom.


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By JVW
Dec 11, 2012

The only time I ever jugged a rope it was set up by 2 guys with years of big wall jugging experience. I ascended the rope 120 feet to find just three strands of kermantle still intact, the rope had been sawing itself against the coarse granite the entire time I was jugging up, had the jug been 30-50 feet higher I probably wouldn't be around to write this. I'll never forget the sheer horror I felt when arriving at the top and seeing the rope nearly cut through, needless to say, I don't jug lines anymore, not to say I wouldn't again but I sure as heck would make sure it was set up better before ascending.


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By Steve86
Dec 11, 2012

My buddy and I core shot a brand new 10mm static line by one person jugging 100 ft of line running over an edge. Be careful.


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By Gunkiemike
Dec 11, 2012

JVW wrote:
The only time I ever jugged a rope it was set up by 2 guys with years of big wall jugging experience. I ascended the rope 120 feet to find just three strands of kermantle still intact,


FYI - "kern" is the core. "Mantle" is the sheath. Modern ropes are kernmantle construction; older types e.g. Goldline are called "laid" ropes.


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By JVW
Dec 11, 2012

Thanks for the lesson gunkiemike! Threes strands of kern left, mantle sheared through.


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By 20 kN
From Hawaii
Dec 11, 2012

JVW wrote:
The only time I ever jugged a rope it was set up by 2 guys with years of big wall jugging experience. I ascended the rope 120 feet to find just three strands of kermantle still intact, the rope had been sawing itself against the coarse granite the entire time I was jugging up, had the jug been 30-50 feet higher I probably wouldn't be around to write this. I'll never forget the sheer horror I felt when arriving at the top and seeing the rope nearly cut through, needless to say, I don't jug lines anymore, not to say I wouldn't again but I sure as heck would make sure it was set up better before ascending.

So what did you do? Did you rap back down?


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By danielwhore
Dec 11, 2012

Jake Jones!! you found it :) thanks so much


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By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Dec 11, 2012
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.

You're welcome.


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