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 ADVANCED
Great Expectations Area (FTGU Left Side)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Love T,S 
Crystal Ether T 
Derezzed T 
Exacerbation S,TR 
Great Expectations T 
Marc's Mixup T,S 
Men Giving Birth T 
Midget Love S 
Murder in the Dark S 
Raoul Silva S 
Rapidfire T 
Skyfall S 
Tattle Tales S 
Twilight Sparkle T 
Vertebrae S 
Where in The World Is Carmen Pellegrino? S 
Wisecrack T 

Where in The World Is Carmen Pellegrino? 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mike Warn c. 2007
Season: spring-fall
Page Views: 548
Submitted By: Dru on Oct 16, 2010

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Description 

Start under the huge log with steps carved into it and climb up a curving groove; at its top, step left onto a ledge (this part is poorly protected but pretty easy).

Now climb up a bolted face. The crux comes at a huge pocket which you mantle and then undercling. Easier climbing above and below.

Location 

In between Murder in the Dark and Crystal Ether; look for the giant log with steps cut in it leaning against the cliff.

Protection 

5 or 6 bolts and an optional poor nut for the groove. Rap anchors on top (shared with Murder in the Dark)


Comments on Where in The World Is Carmen Pellegrino? Add Comment
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By Dru
Oct 16, 2010

Currently a bit mossed over in the starting groove, a good brushing would help. Often damp in the spring and late fall to start, too.
By MikeW
Jun 1, 2011

This has been cleaned up recently and I added a gutter to redistribute the runoff so it should stay dry a lot longer now. Several small cams make for some excellent placements at the start for the traverse and in the flake at the top.
By Dru
Aug 6, 2013

Variation - start up the first two or three meters of Crystal Ether and then traverse a right-leaning handcrack under the log to reach the ledge below the bolts, instead of taking the original start on the right up the flake. Done this way the pro is to the left of the climber all the way up and you never have to worry about a rope running under your legs as a potential backflip hazard as you pull the crux.
By Marco
Aug 12, 2013

I noticed the big jug flake has been pulled off before traversing onto the ledge. This may effect the first crux on Skyfall....but you still have to make the dyno:)
By Dru
Jun 9, 2014

There's also a new continuation from the Crapo brothers which climbs out left above the last bolt of Carmen, following additional ledges, past two new bolts to a chain station. This avoids the 5.5 trad finish of Carmen, Skyfall and MITD and extends the good stuff a bit longer.