|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]|
|FA:||Romain Vogler, Christian Schwarz - Aug. 6, 1985|
|Submitted By:||Ben Folsom on Oct 27, 2003|
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Where have the Wild Things Gone||Add Comment|
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By Alison Conrad
Sep 28, 2007
P1: Strenuous slightly overhanging in a corner need xtra .75 and #1 BD cams. The anchor is an uncomfortable hanging belay on two nuts in crack, a pin, and star driven bolt. Anchor could be replaced. Bring xtra .75 to back up anchor. Great pitch! Felt harder than the grade.
P2: Scary and chossy. Follows discontiuous flakes and edges. Take triples of small cams and nuts unless you feel comfortable running out on sketchy rock. We broke it up in two pitches because my partner ran out of small stuff for the upper part.
Would recommend doing the first pitch, but would not repeat the 2nd pitch.
By Ben Folsom
Nov 27, 2007
|I thought the second pitch of this was classic. It was more broken rock than the first pitch, but not chossy and much more interesting than the first pitch. I had one set of TCU's, a few medium cams and stoppers for that pitch. I was nervous about not having enough gear, but the single set and stoppers ended up being perfect. I was well protected for the whole pitch.|
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 16, 2009
|Has the star-drive in this been replaced yet?|
By Wyatt Payne
From: Littleton CO
Oct 3, 2011
|Starts getting sun at top of 1st pitch ~11:30. First pitch feels tough for the grade. Highly asthetic line.|