The best 5.10 in Clifton.
P1: Start up the left side of a blank face to horizontal with hidden piton, traverse right and up the finger crack to a ledge. Continue past a bolt to crossover ledge. P2: Follow out right and up to a gear belay at horizontals. P3: Traverse left onto the face and climb up the exposed face past three bolts to a bolt anchor, or top out.
This route is located down and right from the practice wall. It is the furthest route left on the steep face. The finger crack on pitch one is unmistakable.
Bring a Wide seletion of gear. Bolts are found just when you need them. Fixed anchors are found at the top.
|Comments on Where Eagles Dare
From: Keene Valley, NY
Dec 8, 2009
Felt like the first pitch was 5.9+, skipped the second pitch, third pitch felt like 5.10b, so the crux pitch must be the second. Makes more sense to do wheaties instead of the second pitch anyways.