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Where am I ? 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mark Sprague
Page Views: 499
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 19, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: The solid line is the way i did it, seemed like th...

Description 

Start up lichen covered rock on easy moves. 15 feet up you get some fun moderate face climbing. Move right to the arete and make delicate moves up the arete and mantel to the right to a stance. Traverse left very carefully then make a fun mantel on to the top and jog the last 15 feet to the to the anchor.

Mark described this route as 5.10ish. If you are looking for that grade it seemed like you could stay left of the arete and do harder moves directly to the final mantel.

Either way you do it you wont have any trouble getting on this one on a busy day. The moves felt a bit Junco like which translates to fun.

Location 

As you hike up from triple Corners toward the Hinterlands you go up a gully with a fixed rope in it. when standing at the base of the gully this route is to your right.

Protection 

6 bolts to anchor.


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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 19, 2009

Hmm, I'm not recognizing the route from the picture at all. Were the bolts nice fat glue-ins? The description sounds right though. If it is the same route, you must have found an easier way. I and the other 2 people who I know climbed it found it to be quite a bit harder than 5.8 and I wouldn't have contrived it unless I was blind as a bat that day, which is possible I suppose, lol. How was it clipping the bolts the way you went?
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 19, 2009

yeah, i know you said it was harder but im pretty sure its the same line... clipping was fine the way i did it though at one point you have a bolt at your feet (a scary thing for many spoiled climbers, haha) but i really think it works fine either way... i had 3 poeple climb it that way and 2 of us thought it was good... really similar in difficulty and style to junco...
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
May 19, 2009

i thought the last few moves were spicey but i could just be a wuss lol :)
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 4, 2010

i climbed it again today and since it was less than 30 degrees (couldnt feel my hands) it felt more like the 5.10 grade found in the guide book, haha... id say my proposed 5.8 grade is a little harsh and 5.10a might be generous but i put the guidebook grade up here so not to confuse people...

I took a pretty good ride when a seemingly solid foot hold popped off and i slid 10 feet or more down the slab stopping just above the scary flake below... ahh the joys of climbing obscure routes, haha...
By S. Neoh
Aug 1, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

IMHO, 10a grade is right. Reminds me of Tool Time, but easier.
Bring a wire brush and work gloves; the slab below the second bolt can use a good scrubbing. I wish I had the equipment with me today.
1.5 stars.
By S. Neoh
Aug 3, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Lee, we happened to do the route as you have described; breaking right to the arete just below the 4th bolt. Clipping the 4th bolt was the
crux for me (fighting the tendency to barn door), before I went over to the arete.
I am 2 inches shorter than Mark so I think it would be difficult for me to "reach back" to clip the 4th bolt after I am around the arete on the right side. Perhaps this is the difference for you since you are tall and lanky. The last mantle onto the slab is 5.9 and the moves around the 4th clip is harder than the mantle.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 3, 2010

good insights... this might be one that is easier for tall folk... though i do tend to climb like a shorty :)
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Mar 14, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Walking up the hill, I glanced over and noticed this face which had less lichen than its surroundings. Some of the larger edges midway up were wet but I was able to traverse right to the arete on decent feet, clip, and mantle around the corner. I enjoyed finding the decent holds allowing me to shift back left around the upper part of the arete. Walking my feet up the last slanting ledge, the final mantle didn't seem bad at all... with a jugs awaiting above. The way I climbed this route felt harder than 5.8 but not really 5.10. I could see it being a little easier for the tall. :)

I enjoyed this climb. I'm glad I stopped.