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When you have to leave a rap anchor... webbing or cord?
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Mar 15, 2013
axe in dryerhose
Just looking for an answer to a question that maybe I'm over-thinking, but if one has to leave a rappel anchor, or if an existing anchor looks sketchy, which is a better material to leave behind- 1in webbing or cordellette (say 6mm)?

I'm not so much concerned with which will get me down safely, I have confidence either one would, but for those who come after me, I might as well leave the best thing should someone else need it.

Thus, I'm specifically looking for which one wears better in the long run, which one will visibly show wear better (to help others determine if it's safe-- don't want something to look fine but really it's crap), and if it could be a factor, which one would be better for the environment, though I know leaving anything behind is not exactly good.

Any opinions/insight is appreciated! Thanks!
angieL
From Madison, WI
Joined Jul 31, 2009
5 points
Mar 15, 2013
My Hero
I use both. I thread 7mm cord through webbing and combine the two to make an extra strong anchor. It's kinda of difficult sometimes to thread 7mm cord through webbing, but it makes for a great anchor. I always have a few feet of it attached to my harness anytime I climb multi-pitch. The webbing helps shield the cord from sun exposure as well. BobGray
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Joined Jun 7, 2006
673 points
Mar 15, 2013
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
If its a commonly used rappel anchor on a popular route? Or, could be? I leave a chain and/or rapide to a rappel ring. All stainless.

Otherwise, 1" or 9/16" webbing or 7mm cord, doesn't matter to me. I've gone fancy before and threaded 7mm cord through 1" webbing and power pointed the whole rig with a rappel ring on it, but, really, stainless chain is going to last forever if you end it with a rapide to ring ('cause you can change the ring out).

7 or 8mm cord is more inspiring than 6mm to be sure. 1" webbing is over kill but works great. Either is super. Leave plenty of tails in a spot they can be easily inspected.
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
10,997 points
Mar 15, 2013
axe in dryerhose
Thanks for the replies! Since I've never heard of it before, I'm curious as to how one threads cord through webbing. Any good references you could point me to? or a quick step by step?
Thanks
angieL
From Madison, WI
Joined Jul 31, 2009
5 points
Mar 15, 2013
BobGray wrote:
I use both. I thread 7mm cord through webbing and combine the two to make an extra strong anchor. It's kinda of difficult sometimes to thread 7mm cord through webbing, but it makes for a great anchor. I always have a few feet of it attached to my harness anytime I climb multi-pitch. The webbing helps shield the cord from sun exposure as well.


I kinda do the same thing, except I put a piece of 11mm static rope inside 3/8ths webbing and then put THAT inside of 1 inch webbing. And then back it up with 7 mil perlon.
EricSchmidt
Joined Feb 3, 2013
5 points
Mar 15, 2013
Casual Route Pitch 3  Photo by Mark Cushman
I like to leave cord as I have found it lasts a bit longer in the weather. Webbing gets so crunch quickly. Also, If I need to leave cord, I can cut it off my cordalette instead as I only carry webbing if I have a reason. (Like setting up TR in Ouray)

-Jon
cheifitj
From Boulder, Colorado
Joined Jun 24, 2008
110 points
Mar 15, 2013
I wouldn't usually bring webbing up a well traveled climb (where I expect the anchor to be ok), so if I found I needed to make an anchor I'd end up cutting what I need off my cordalette. If it was a climb where I thought the likelihood of needing to make an anchor is high then I'd bring webbing...not because it's better, but because I bought a bunch when I was a noob thinking I'd need it and I never have... Ian Stewart
Joined May 17, 2010
166 points
Mar 15, 2013
top of mt. lady washington - rmnp
6 or 7mm cord, since thats what I'm already carrying for anchors. Andrew Mayer
Joined Nov 14, 2010
24 points
Mar 15, 2013
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
EricSchmidt wrote:
I kinda do the same thing, except I put a piece of 11mm static rope inside 3/8ths webbing and then put THAT inside of 1 inch webbing. And then back it up with 7 mil perlon.


LOL!!..and then wrap that in and around a heavy chain too.
Woodchuck ATC
Joined Nov 29, 2007
3,090 points
Mar 15, 2013
Valor Over Discretion (5.8), RRG
EricSchmidt wrote:
I kinda do the same thing, except I put a piece of 11mm static rope inside 3/8ths webbing and then put THAT inside of 1 inch webbing. And then back it up with 7 mil perlon.

Brian Hudson
From Lenoir, NC
Joined Dec 10, 2010
112 points
Mar 16, 2013
At the BRC
Woodchuck ATC wrote:
LOL!!..and then wrap that in and around a heavy chain too.


Is a stainless steel chain adequate or does it have to be titanium?
Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Joined Nov 29, 2007
204 points
Mar 16, 2013
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
Mark E Dixon wrote:
Is a stainless steel chain adequate or does it have to be titanium?


Thanks for catching my error Mark,,,titanium links, 1/2 inch thick is the basic minimum. We all want to be safe out there..
Woodchuck ATC
Joined Nov 29, 2007
3,090 points
Mar 16, 2013
Sorry to be the bitch here.. leave a biner or 2 john strand
From southern colo
Joined May 22, 2008
2,259 points
Mar 16, 2013
Woodchuck ATC wrote:
Thanks for catching my error Mark,,,titanium links, 1/2 inch thick is the basic minimum. We all want to be safe out there..

you are shittin ' me right ??
john strand
From southern colo
Joined May 22, 2008
2,259 points
Mar 16, 2013
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
john strand wrote:
Sorry to be the bitch here.. leave a biner or 2


agreed,,but tied to what??.. a cord,chain or web is the debate here....even the overkill anchor humor..
Woodchuck ATC
Joined Nov 29, 2007
3,090 points
Mar 16, 2013
At the BRC
john strand wrote:
Sorry to be the bitch here.. leave a biner or 2

I don't think they make titanium carabiners.
Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Joined Nov 29, 2007
204 points
Mar 16, 2013
Brian Hudson wrote:


Congrats on jumping on the bandwagon and ALSO not being able to take a joke... Are you always so serious?
EricSchmidt
Joined Feb 3, 2013
5 points
Mar 16, 2013
john strand wrote:
you are shittin ' me right ??


Yes... obviously he is. Are you always so gullible?
EricSchmidt
Joined Feb 3, 2013
5 points
Mar 16, 2013
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
Dental Floss...several loops/turns of waxed floss should do it ..save a few bucks too. Woodchuck ATC
Joined Nov 29, 2007
3,090 points
Mar 16, 2013
Thats Me
Rappeling is for sissies. I only climb it if I can base jump off of it. clay meier
Joined Dec 24, 2008
359 points
Mar 17, 2013
Valor Over Discretion (5.8), RRG
Woodchuck ATC wrote:
agreed,,but tied to what??.. a cord,chain or web is the debate here....even the overkill anchor humor..

I guess you could place it like a blade...cam it in a horizontal and hope for the best?

Also, Eric, your sense of humor needs some retuning if you think you're telling jokes.
Brian Hudson
From Lenoir, NC
Joined Dec 10, 2010
112 points
Mar 17, 2013
Brian Hudson wrote:
I guess you could place it like a blade...cam it in a horizontal and hope for the best? Also, Eric, your sense of humor needs some retuning if you think you're telling jokes.


Hahaha right.... And who is the idiot who took me seriously? Thats you Brian!
EricSchmidt
Joined Feb 3, 2013
5 points
Mar 18, 2013
How about leaving stainless chain? Around a tree? It'll last long and it's less visable.... Would that work or would people take it and put up webbing? Peter Hurtgen
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Dec 30, 2011
85 points
Mar 18, 2013
Peter Hurtgen wrote:
How about leaving stainless chain? Around a tree? It'll last long and it's less visable.... Would that work or would people take it and put up webbing?



You going to lug enough SS chain up your climbs?
NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Joined Oct 6, 2011
116 points
Mar 18, 2013
Webbing is strong and cheap. Bring a couple 1-2 foot knotted slings with you and you can make a multitude of different lengths. A rap ring is super cheap and you can always bring one with you. If not, just leave a few biners. Greg Pouliot
Joined Jul 23, 2012
7 points
Mar 18, 2013
on top of the RNWF June 2012
cascadeclimbers.com/forget-tha... Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Joined Feb 8, 2010
217 points


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