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When to use screamers
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By Goodhue
From Boulder, CO
Nov 13, 2012

RABBLE RABBLE RABBLE


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By Wally
From Denver
Nov 13, 2012

No screamers, save your money. Hmmm. If a screamer keeps that suspect piece from blowing, it may save you a lot of money, and an agonizing rehab.

A screamer could - could make the difference between a grounder or walking away. Why not stack the odds more in your favor?

The quesion goes a bit further than just screamer versus no screamer. Yates, on their website, suggests that Zipper Screamers are better than their Standard Screamers in ice.

My typical ice climbing rack has 3 to 6 Zipper Screamers and 3 or so Standard Screamers. My typical rock climbing rack has 2 or 3 Standard Screamers.

Climb Ohn. Wally


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By superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Nov 13, 2012
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3

people use screamers in rock climbing?


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By Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Nov 13, 2012
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stiletto, Sharkstooth, Forbidden Tower, Petit Grepon, The Saber, The Foil, The Moon & The Jackknife.

superkick wrote:
people use screamers in rock climbing?


They're somewhat popular with aid climbers.


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By coop
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Nov 13, 2012
Indian Creek Climbing

not to change the topic, but what is everyone's favorite biner for screamers and draws when you go ice climbing?


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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Nov 13, 2012
Bocan

coop wrote:
not to change the topic, but what is everyone's favorite biner for screamers and draws when you go ice climbing?


Trango Neoclassic Bent Gate Carabiner on the rope side of my screamers. Great price and easy clipping for when I'm desperate, which feels like every clip. :o)


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By johnthethird
Nov 13, 2012

superkick wrote:
people use screamers in rock climbing?


Yup, great for mankey pins at the gunks...or anywhere for that matter


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By MJMobes
From The land of steady habits
Nov 13, 2012
modern man

johnthethird wrote:
Yup, great for mankey pins at the gunks...or anywhere for that matter


lol, I was just gonna say that Gunkers have everything piece of gear made under the sun on their racks


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By Richard88
From Sheridan, WY
Nov 13, 2012
piney creek canyon

coop wrote:
not to change the topic, but what is everyone's favorite biner for screamers and draws when you go ice climbing?


For draws on rock and ice i've always loved the mammut element


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By GMBurns
Nov 13, 2012
Climbing at Morro Anhangava in Southern Brasil. <br /> <br />(photo by Isa Vellozo)

Richard88 wrote:
We're all gonna die!


only losers die.


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By richie
From englewood, tn
Nov 13, 2012

when you want to impress the neighbors.


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By 419
From Denver
Nov 13, 2012
JR Token

Screamer drop test:
Here

Will Gadd Ice Climbing Vid:
Vid



He explains his gear in the video including sharp thingy's, slinging icicles and clippy things.

Focus on the work house of the rack.


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By J Q
Nov 13, 2012
Me again!

richie wrote:
when you want to impress the neighbors.


+1


Or your mom.


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By Jim Amidon
Nov 13, 2012
J TREE

BLAH.......


BLAH>>>


BLAH.....

Just climb ice like the Carr Boys......

1st rule, don't fall......

2nd, rule stopping to place screws is a waste of time & energy......


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By TBlom
Nov 13, 2012

Sally and Ben should never go climbing together, lest the world devolve into semantic nonsense.


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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Nov 13, 2012
Bocan

419 wrote:
He explains his gear in the video including sharp thingy's, slinging icicles and clippy things. Focus on the work house of the rack.


haha Will totally called that coming off. Not suprising!


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By Dave Bn
From Fort Collins, CO
Nov 13, 2012
Dreamweaver

What's all this talk about ice for?

My entire sport rack is made up of screamers.


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By Sally G.
From Boulder, CO
Nov 18, 2012

Great feedback. After going over all the info, my preference will be for Zippers on the bottom and more slings up top. And now I finally have it into my head which is a positive and negative placement. Thank you Ben.
And as far as spending the money on screamers - My friend was belaying a guy at Lincoln last week who took a lead fall, first screw came out, screamer deployed and he didn't hit the deck. He's bruised, but walking, so 20 bucks is cheap!


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By Stiles
From the Mountains
Nov 18, 2012
Rough

I will screamer the top anchor piece as the first piece of pro if it looks like the leader will factor-two. A partner blew at screamer 9/10ths (I had a single wrap of athletic tape holding the ears from flopping which is coincidentally where the ripping stopped) from a 35ft fall onto the anchor.
I caught him and got yanked up,then the screamer activated which took his weight and wailed in my ear. When his weight momentarily came off me while the screamer blew l thought he had come off altogether! It was, however, a much beneficial use of a screamer.


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Nov 18, 2012
El Chorro

I'm glad someone finally posted a freakin' picture. I've placed three screws in my entire life and even I know what angle to put them in. Can't believe it took that long for everyone to agree that they all know as well.


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By funkyicemonkey
From Colorado
Nov 18, 2012

Screamers are superb and should be on everyones trad rack. I carry two year round to use on marginal or blind placements. With a fall factor of 1 the forces on an anchor are about 11Kn, but by using a screamer they fall by over half to 5Kn. That could save your life. Whenever the Ice is just a bit marginal I use one, I use them on old pegs, or rusty bolts or anything else that just makes me wonder - "how good is that really?"
From Yates:
www.yatesgear.com/climbing/screamer/use.htm

Really they dont weigh a lot, they are not that pricey and to be honest a couple go a long long way.


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By Reginald McChufferton
Nov 18, 2012

funkyicemonkey wrote:
With a fall factor of 1 the forces on an anchor are about 11Kn, but by using a screamer they fall by over half to 5Kn.



This is so incorrect it's amazing you haven't killed yourself yet. Stop giving out advice when you don't know what he hell you're talking about. The force of a factor one fall "could" be 11kn depending on the weight of the climber, the type of rope used, type of fall, etc. etc. etc. A screamer DOES NOT determine the final KN force of the fall nor does it limit it to 5KN. Sheesh.

BTW...those numbers in that link you posted have been shown to be wrong by several people who have performed exhaustive testing. Google is your friend.


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By bearbreeder
Nov 18, 2012

i scream when i fall ... im a screamer =(


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By doligo
Nov 18, 2012
Jose Cuervo Fruitcups dirtbag style

Sally G. wrote:
My friend was belaying a guy at Lincoln last week who took a lead fall, first screw came out, screamer deployed and he didn't hit the deck. He's bruised, but walking, so 20 bucks is cheap!


Screamers are good, but it's a bad call, IMHO, putting faith in them and placing shitty screws. I'm not saying I'm not guilty of this - but when I did have a shitty placement I was well within my limits. Learn and practice the art of downclimbing if you can't find a good screw placement or if it's way over your head. Perhaps if the guy didn't waste his energy to place a shitty screw he could have either climbed higher to get a better placement or down climbed back to the ground.


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By Kevin Craig
Nov 20, 2012
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd

doligo wrote:
Screamers are good, but it's a bad call, IMHO, putting faith in them and placing shitty screws. I'm not saying I'm not guilty of this - but when I did have a shitty placement I was well within my limits. Learn and practice the art of downclimbing if you can't find a good screw placement or if it's way over your head. Perhaps if the guy didn't waste his energy to place a shitty screw he could have either climbed higher to get a better placement or down climbed back to the ground.


All good in theory.


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