Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
When Time Has No Meaning
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 1 from 1
vote
Routes in Pharaoh's Glen
|
|
Bill's Farewell Epic S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Ira's Bali S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
When Time Has No Meaning T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | James Garrett and Franziska Garrett, 27 May 2008 |
| Page Views: | 1,084 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | James Garrett on May 29, 2008 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Private Property
Details
Trails and rock walls and terraces have been beautifully constructed on this private enclave. The owner, Ira Sachs, however, welcomes responsible and respectful climbers on these walls when there are no private events being held on the property grounds. Please be discreet and ask for permission while passing through the gate.
Many private parties, weddings, and gatherings are held here. When this is the case, out of respect for the people paying for privacy at these events, it is best not to traverse through the property to access the Pharoah's Hat or other climbs in the Pharoah's Glen area. The honor and privaledge to access this area is NOT a right, and certainly will be revoked if abused.
Many private parties, weddings, and gatherings are held here. When this is the case, out of respect for the people paying for privacy at these events, it is best not to traverse through the property to access the Pharoah's Hat or other climbs in the Pharoah's Glen area. The honor and privaledge to access this area is NOT a right, and certainly will be revoked if abused.
Description
When Time Has No Meaning starts low on the arete just to the right of the waterfall on the upper terrace. Look for a bolt low down about 5m above the start. This route merges with the 1991 Tim Broughton climb called Gastronomy Crack toward the top, but does not alter that line. I recently spoke with Tim and he was excited to hear that this was added. His route traverses under the large roof and then after reaching the left side of the crack system, he did cut back right and continued to the top via the arete (same finish as for When Time Has No Meaning). This is contrary to the guidebook topo, incidentally. He also said others had placed the two-bolt belay/rappel station.
Pitch #1: Continue directly up the sharp arete, run out at times, passing about 4 bolts. The leader will encounter a fixed piton up high, which is how GC finishes. Remain on the arete until the top of the crag clipping a bolt (placed as a directional/belay) and traverse to the Gastronomy Crack Ledge two-bolt belay to the right. 5.7, 50m.
Pitch #1: Continue directly up the sharp arete, run out at times, passing about 4 bolts. The leader will encounter a fixed piton up high, which is how GC finishes. Remain on the arete until the top of the crag clipping a bolt (placed as a directional/belay) and traverse to the Gastronomy Crack Ledge two-bolt belay to the right. 5.7, 50m.
0 Comments