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When the Cat's Away S 

When the Cat's Away 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Greg Mayer, 12/90
Season: spring, winter and fall
Page Views: 1,738
Submitted By: Gary Savage on Jan 27, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Kate nearing the crux finish of When the Cat's Awa...

Description 

This and Saddam's Mom are the 2 classics at the cliff. The start involves a funky move out of an alcove on to the face. Then climb along the parallel cracks and fight the pump to the anchor.

Location 

The obvious parallel cracks.

Protection 

6 bolts


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By Cultivating Mass
Mar 23, 2007

My good buddy Danger Dragon broke off a sizeable chunk just before the crux-soft routes like this are an ever-changing medium! (And no, it hadn't rained that week.)
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 28, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Clipping the chains is the crux - yahoo.
By tenesmus
Feb 10, 2014

Great moves on good stone. The cool parts about climbs like this is you get great stances from which to figure the moves out. Be ready to climb all the way through the chains.

We were just there on 2/6/14 and thought the cool old hangers were really bomber and the bolts were just fine. But then, what do we know anyway.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 21, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

On Friday, February 21st 2014, the ASCA replaced all protection bolts and the anchor of this route with ClimbTech glue-in wave bolts.