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Sheep's Nose
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Chinook T 
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For Wimps Only  T 
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Lost in Space T 
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Sheep in Wolves Clothing  T 
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Space Cadet  T 
Ten Years After T 
Unknown T,TR 
When Sheep are Nervous T 

When Sheep are Nervous 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 547
Submitted By: Phil Lauffen on Oct 27, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Approximate line. Wander at will.

Description 

P1. To the left of Lost in Space's first belay lie a few hand cracks. Scramble up to the large ledge containing this belay from the left, or climb the first pitch of Lost in Space. Choose one of these hand cracks and wander up until you are 40 feet or so below a triangular roof with a crack running through it. This part is kind of dirty. Set a belay here.

P2. Climb a sweet, large flake. Barndoor like me if you want a little excitement. At the rap tat below the roof, place a good nut, then place a good cam (#0.5 Camalot) in the crack under the roof, then figure out how to get on top. It took me a few tries. Then climb up the fun crack to the short headwall, clip my fixed Trango splitter cam, and pull over. From here, the most obvious line seemed to be to traverse right on easy ground until you are at the top of the first part of the last pitch of Lost in Space and right of Ozone Direct. Set a belay and climb the last part of either of these fine routes.

This is a good alternative when Lost in Space is full.

Location 

To the left of Lost in Space, look up for the small, triangular roof with rap slings underneath it. Aim for that.

Protection 

Standard rack. 1 of each cam, maybe doubles in hand and smaller. Nothing large is required.


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By Jonathan Stickel
From: Golden, CO
Oct 26, 2013

Accidentally did this route or something nearby after missing pitch 2 of "Lost in Space". There was a piton in the crack of a left-facing dihedral of pitch 2, before reaching a roof. Is this the route? It felt harder than 5.9.