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 ADVANCED
Jimmy Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alcove Crack T 
Beginning of All Things, The S 
Clip a Dee Doo Dah S 
Cracker Cracks T 
Curl Up and Fly S 
Drilling for Dollars S 
Easter Squall S 
Hammond Organ S 
Hypocrisy S 
Jimmy Crack Corn T 
Junco S 
Lady and the Tramp S 
Lonesome Dove S 
Love Nest T,TR 
Nuthatch, The S 
Piece of Cake S 
Pine Tree Crack T 
Scare Crow T 
Searchers, The T 
Standard Route T 
Stool Pigeon T 
Teacherís Pet S 
Things as They Are S 
Things As They Are Now S 
Things I Never Learned S 
Things You Should Have Learned in Kindergarten S 
To Love, Honor and Belay S 
When Pigs Fly T 

When Pigs Fly 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: My daughter Zoe and Bradley White
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,025
Submitted By: bradley white on Aug 21, 2010

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Zoe on the upper slab section.

Description 

This is an old style climb in an old style area across from Jimmy Cliff. The moves up are similar to the climbs on the right side of the main cliff. The climbing is a little bit dirty. This climb offers ramps and some wonderful rock protrusions. Plenty of exposure on it. High up moves to start with are high up. A wonderful view after the climb.
A difficulty increase variation to this climb awaits on the same fixed protection a left sided climb on the first three bolts. This variation is on clean black rock and run out distance. The ceiling ahead below the upper slab can also be pulled on up the left side for added difficulty. I would call the whole variation 'Pigs On The Wing'.
We really enjoyed our climb. Finally my daughter got to be in on one of my first ascents in a new area. The crux is getting past the second bolt and the ceiling below the upper slab. The upper slab can be skipped by a nice alternative finish. Go right before slab and pass a pine tree at (5.5) to join up later the regular finish.

Location 

Opposite broken rock wall besides the gully right of 'Lonesome Dove'. We belayed off of a large oak tree below the vegetated tree covered rock ramp, thanks mat. Walk off right after solo climbing up a short summit wall. A lot of dead trees because the summit area was burned very much by the million dollar fire.

Protection 

5 bolts and 2 pins rappel bolted. First bolt requires awkward face climbing up too a foot ledge long reach clip. After way up on the vegetation ramp. Long run out from third bolt to the slab (crux) bolt. Getting to clip this bolt also requires awkward balancing moves. It'll require four more bolts to remove these risks. A 1.5-cam fits before the pin (it came out on second ascent and I missed the pin ) a 4 cam fits between 3rd and 4th bolt. Then it is a safer, better protected ascent but still risky. The top 20ft. ramp (5.0) has no protection and before it is a army surplus ring piton 15ft above the last bolt that is not deeply set.


Photos of When Pigs Fly Slideshow Add Photo
Zoe made it.
Zoe made it.
The climb is above this vegetated and tree covered...
The climb is above this vegetated and tree covered...
There she goes.
There she goes.
Zoe getting ready to go for it.
Zoe getting ready to go for it.
That's that.
That's that.

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