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The Frigate
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Jib, The 
Pooper, The 
Stern, The 
Unnamed route 20 
When Life Gives You Lemons...SQUEEZE THEM TO DEATH! 

When Life Gives You Lemons...SQUEEZE THEM TO DEATH! 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Old School
Page Views: 294
Submitted By: Tradoholic on Jun 1, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: Follow the crack straight or stay left and travers...

Description 

This is a two part climb. Part one (When Life Gives You Lemons...) heads up easy terrain left of the crack to a nice stance, then traverse right with a tricky sequence, to a BOMBER hand jam, take it to the top.

Part two (SQUEEZE THEM TO DEATH!) heads up using the crack and big holds on the left but goes straight up the crack utilizing a wicked one knuckle pinky jam and a heinous pinch on the arete to the same BOMBER hand jam as part one.


Location 

Back side of The Frigate, find Bowspirit and to your right is another buttress with a right angling crack.


Protection 

Standard rack. Optional #1 Ball-Nuts for part one and a micro cam for the crux piece on both parts. Solo up the left side of the buttress to set TR.



Photos of When Life Gives You Lemons...SQUEEZE THEM TO DEATH! Slideshow Add Photo
Leading Part One.
Leading Part One.
In the heinous pinky lock.
In the heinous pinky lock.
Comments on When Life Gives You Lemons...SQUEEZE THEM TO DEATH! Add Comment
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By Tradoholic
Nov 3, 2011

Not sure why but this obvious line isn't in Sven's book.