Type: Boulder, 8 ft (2 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,135 total · 10/month
Shared By: Ladd Raine on May 14, 2007
Admins: BDalhaus, Brad Fauteux, Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A short, crimpy and powerful problem that suffers from a bad case of exfoliation. In 2004 most of the holds fell off of the face, leaving the problem in its current state. It’s still fun if you have nothing better to do. Sit start just right of the pocket on the Professor and layback a right hand sidepull with the help of a tiny crimp below the pocket for your left. Snag the weird crimp in the seam with your left hand and gaston up to a crimp on the face. Drop into the double gaston and dyno to the lip.

An incorrect grade and a missing problem in the guidebook have created confusion about this short climb and as a result, it is rarely tried, let alone climbed. Although the guidebook description of “climb broken edges trending right” is correct, most people climb its neighbor, the left leaning arete, and mistake it for this problem. For that problem, please see Mistaken Identity.

Location Suggest change

Route on overhanging face just right of The Professor and Hobbit Hole.

Protection Suggest change

Pad.

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