By IronMan Jan 8, 2013
| At what stage in a climbing career does one start training? I've been climbing for around 4 months. How would I train if I can only actually climb or go to the gym 1 day a week? Is there a certain grade that you start training at? Should I train? To those of you who also have limited time at the rock, how do you stay in shape/train? |  FLAG |
By Matt N From Santa Barbara, CA Jan 8, 2013
| More information: Boulders V7 Sport: 5.12b 4 months? We should be asking you how to train, not the other way around. |  FLAG |
By Mike Lane From Centennial, CO Jan 8, 2013
| Training gives you an unfair advantage over those who don't. So just as we as a society are striving to reduce everything the lowest common denominator and spread the fairness around, neither should you do any training. |  FLAG |
By Mike Belu From Indianapolis, IN Jan 8, 2013
| ^^^ very funny. |  FLAG |
By sanz From Raleigh, NC Jan 8, 2013
| So you've been climbing once a week for four months, or in other words, you've climbed 16 times, and you climb 12b/V7? If that's actually the case, you are an extreme outlier and have a very, very high baseline Anyone who climbs at that level is ready to start seriously training. In fact, I don't think I've ever met someone who climbs at that level and hasn't already been training for some time. Anyway, get a copy of the Self-Coached Climber. Inside you'll find all you need to know. |  FLAG |
By Monomaniac Administrator From Morrison, CO Jan 8, 2013
| I used to always tell people that a reasonably fit person ought to be able to work up to redpointing 5.12a sport routes just by focusing on movement skills and climbing regularly (2-3 times per week), and therefore, that was about the point one might consider following a structured training program. In retrospect, I think I said that simply because that is what I did. With hindsight, I think I would have been better off as a performance rock climber had I started training earlier. The two years or so I spent getting from 5.11- to 5.12- included three major finger injuries and lots of frustration. I’m confident I could have avoided those injuries, and likely progressed further, faster, had I followed a structured training program. Considering the above, why not start training immediately? There are at least three standard reasons often cited... Read the rest here: lazyhclimbingclub.wordpress.com/2012/09/10/qa-3-when-should->>> |  FLAG |
By IronMan Jan 9, 2013
| I think I need to clear up some things. In August, I was climbing 2-3 times a week. for the last 2.5 weeks, I was doing a 2 days on, 1 day off cycle. Generally, because of school, I am able to climb around once a week. During the week, I run every day for Track, and I go to the weight room M-W-F. @Mono, thanks for the link to the site. |  FLAG |
By James Otey From NH Jan 9, 2013
| Muscles get stronger significantly faster than connective tissue- aka tendons. Stay away from pockets and super small crimps like the plague for 6 months. Pay now save later. Or make the same mistakes me and monomaniac made and set back your climbing career significantly. |  FLAG |
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