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When do you start training?
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At what stage in a climbing career does one start training? |
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More information: |
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Training gives you an unfair advantage over those who don't. So just as we as a society are striving to reduce everything the lowest common denominator and spread the fairness around, neither should you do any training. |
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^^^ very funny. |
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So you've been climbing once a week for four months, or in other words, you've climbed 16 times, and you climb 12b/V7? |
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I used to always tell people that a reasonably fit person ought to be able to work up to redpointing 5.12a sport routes just by focusing on movement skills and climbing regularly (2-3 times per week), and therefore, that was about the point one might consider following a structured training program. In retrospect, I think I said that simply because that is what I did. With hindsight, I think I would have been better off as a performance rock climber had I started training earlier. The two years or so I spent getting from 5.11- to 5.12- included three major finger injuries and lots of frustration. I’m confident I could have avoided those injuries, and likely progressed further, faster, had I followed a structured training program.
Considering the above, why not start training immediately? There are at least three standard reasons often cited... Read the rest here: lazyhclimbingclub.wordpress… |
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I think I need to clear up some things. |
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Muscles get stronger significantly faster than connective tissue- aka tendons. Stay away from pockets and super small crimps like the plague for 6 months. |
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That's an interesting question. I don't think that before now I ever really did a sustained, disciplined training regiment. I mean we'd do chain-up pyramids at times after climbing and have random fits of "training", but outside a structured long-term plan I now see this was mostly for entertainment, not really for full climbing value. Now I onsight 11+ redpoint 12-, and I've started doing one because I think to really keep progressive that's what I have to do. I think that unless you have a very good body for climbing, this is likely to be the case for you as well. I've been 5'7" and around 140 lbs pretty much since I became a fully-grown adult, so I'm probably not bad for climbing physiology. Of course there's more than just BMI - tendons strenght, muscles profiles and just general physical activity history also plays a role. So the short answer, I think would be when you start working on 5.12. It kind of depends why you climb though - I'm willing to push my climbing further and I'd like to climb 13 eventually. I'm not sure I can really get there without training. But one could also just say "well, I can hand-dog up to 12+, meaning I can find something good to climb at most crags and get my draws back". Then why train? Just keep climbing and nevermind the plateau. You may still improve slightly still.... I don't really see the point of training in a systematic manner before you can regularly onsight (or redpoint within 2-3 attempts) around 5.10+. I mean if you're not solid at 5.10, I think the gains to be had in technics are just greater than the physical strength you'll get from training. I think every able-bodied person can solidly climb 5.10 from a physical perspective. The reason why not everyone does that is because climbing has a long technical learning curve. |
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You start training because you decide this is something you want to get better at. Not because of the grade you climb at. WTFkind of question is that? Are you in junior high? |
mediocre wrote: A somewhat less nuanced and more simplistic view of it! |
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With the age of this thread, I'm assuming our 4 month/V7 OP is now in isolation for some World Cup event, so it'll take some time to respond. |
