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When did you plan your first independent, personal trip?

Original Post
Mikeybarro · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 15

The question is that simple. I'm a novice climber. NOLS AKM alumni and I've got a guided trip up Yanapaccha and Chopiqualqi scheduled this june with my close friend from my NOLS trip. We're pretty excited and we like to dive into things head first. The conversation has been had many times, once we do this and maybe another trip to learn good rope technique, perhaps we will do our own trips. Normally I am totally cool with diving head first into this kinda stuff, it's what I did with lead climbing. But I almost got myself killed doing that. I dont regret but I might regret it with this mountaineering thing. When did all this happen for you and what were some of your first expeditions?

Scott O · · Anchorage · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 70

I did NOLS AKM in 2002, and thought it was mostly a waste of my time. Although I learned glacier travel and crevasse rescue really well, I realized that they didn't teach me a damn thing about actually going UP a mountain (which is what I thought I was dropping several K and spending a month of my time learning to do).

It wasn't until I learned to lead trad from a friend that I actually felt comfortable going back into the mountains several years later.

climbing coastie · · Wasilla, AK · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 95

I think it depends on how big of an objective you have in mind. Do you want to climb Denali or something like Shasta? There’s a huge difference between the two and everything in between.

I did a week long trip into the Alaska Range and did short day climbs from a base camp ( Trip Report ). If you have basic trad experience and are squared away in crevasse rescue, I’d say you could pull that off now. If your looking at 6000m peaks you probably still have a lot to learn before planning your own trip. But that doesn’t mean you wouldn’t be a productive member of a team lead by someone else.

There’s plenty of places suited for beginners. You just have to pick an objective that meets your skill level!

Mark R · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65

You guys could start out by climbing Baker, Hood, Rainier, etc... to try yourselves unguided on "big" mountains without the worry/complexity of international logistics. After seeing how those go then pick another objective and start planning.

Idaho Bob · · McCall, ID · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 757

You might want to check out what Yamnuska Mountain Adventures in Canmore, Alberta (that's Canada)has to offer. Not only do they have solid programs in all aspects of climbing/mountaineering, they also have great instructors. My first was Berry Blanchard.

Mark R · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Idaho Bob wrote:My first was Berry Blanchard.
Wonder how many people in the world can say this...
Scott O · · Anchorage · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 70

Another option for you as you're gaining experience is to climb a major peak like Rainier that gets heavy guide traffic. Just sort of lurk behind some of the many guided parties. They know the route, and they know conditions, but you still get to go through the motions of being your own party.

Andrew Gram · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,725

The Mexican volcanoes are a perfect first trip - high, easy, glacier climbing but essentially no crevasse or avy danger to worry about.

kparry · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 0

Second Don Morris comment. Nicely worded. Just get out and keep challenging yourself and enjoying the mountain

Beean · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0

Also agree with the 'just get out there' comments.

I've never been on a course or hired a guide, each of my trips has been with either a more experienced friend for tougher objectives, and less experienced friends for easier objectives.

Pick what is said to be an easy objective (I'm talking small here, 3000m or less snow slog or scramble), do it, bail if need be, and make an honest assessment of how it went after your climb. Rinse wash repeat. You'll get a feel for what you're comfortable on and be able to guess what will push you.

Chris Rice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 55

I'd been climbing about 3 or 4 months when I got in my car and headed west by myself. Just picked up partners and did Devils Tower (Durrance), The Grand Teton to Lower Saddle (stormed off) - then Stettners and Keiners on Longs Peak - a couple Flatirons routes and home again. I led everything and had a blast. Just go - things will work out if you simply use your head. We have too much information these days - it paralyzes people.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Mountaineering
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