Wheels on Fire Direct 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Smith, Ellison, Noble '80 |
| Submitted By: | Peter Gram on Jul 2, 2004 |
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BETA PHOTO: Wheels on Fire climbs the crack until the obvious ...
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Description Wheels on Fire Direct is a very good variation high up on the Wheels on Fire route. The start is the same as for Wheels on Fire. Scramble up a really slick section to gain a higher ledge. Either approach the crack directly for a little more challenge, or traverse in from the left up higher. Jam and lieback up to the big flake (crux right below the flake).
Instead of the leftward hand traverse at the flake, continue straight up the steep dihedral with a few small bulges. This climbing is quite juggy and has great jams, but is a lieback so a lead is much harder than a TR. The face smears are also quite ricey in spots.
Protection Standard Rack. Small cams up to a #3 Camalot. The upper section is mostly small-hand-sized.
Descent One 60m rope rap gets you all the way down past the slick scrambling. This is a rope stretcher, but it is very safe, and is not the 130' mentioned in the guidebook. Make sure to watch out for the rock eating cracks near the anchor.
BETA PHOTO: Another view with lines
1) Wheels on Fire
2) Wheel...
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Setting my red Metolius, to protect the last stren...
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Another shot of a great route.
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Liebacking at the crux.
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| Comments on Wheels on Fire Direct |
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By Nathan Fisher
May 24, 2006
rating: 5.10a
| If I had to choose this one or the original line, and I could only do one. I would have a hard time choosing one. This one is better for the fact that it is pumpier and more sustained. Original has the exciting traverse. Again though, great stances for great gear. I used the 3 chickenheads as my stances for gear. Run it out between. |
By Stymingersfink
Apr 15, 2008
| The top end had some kitty litter on it when I did it in '04. I don't think this thing gets nearly as much traffic as it deserves. |
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jun 16, 2008
rating: 5.10a
| Not much harder than the indirect version and at least as good.
Watch for the horn of doom near the top that will catch your rope and shred it to pieces or stop you when you try to lower. |
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Nov 8, 2009
| 50 feet of lie backing should be inspiration enough to get up there and do this one! |
By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 28, 2010
| I found this to be easier than Wheels on Fire, mostly because gear was easier to place. |
By Jason Eichhorst
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 28, 2012
| Good sustained layback section at the top. Real fun. Doesn't get the stars it deserves. |
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