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Elephant Rock - East
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Columbian Crack T 
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Just Say No S 
Pretzel Logic T,S 
Pygmies Got Stoned, The S 
Rye Crisp T 
Sinsemilla T 
Tres Amigos S 
Wheat Thin T 

Wheat Thin 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Greg Lowe, 1960's
Page Views: 16,594
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Jun 12, 2004

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Eric living large on Wheat thin.

Description 

This beautiful route climbs the thin flake feature right of Rye Crisp. It is easier than it looks, but just as high quality.

Wander up the easy flake system until it steepens. Jam and face climb up this wonderful feature until you are back on 3rd class ground. Bring a 70 meter or 2 60 meter ropes to rap from any of a number of fixed anchors.

Protection 

Stoppers, cams from fingers to big hands.


Photos of Wheat Thin Slideshow Add Photo
The late James Welton on Wheat Thin
The late James Welton on Wheat Thin
James Welton leading Wheat thin on passive gear only
James Welton leading Wheat thin on passive gear on...
Best 5.7 in the City??
Best 5.7 in the City??
Elephant Rock  - Wheat Thin and surroundings
BETA PHOTO: Elephant Rock - Wheat Thin and surroundings
Kimie cruisin the bottom section of wheat thin!
Kimie cruisin the bottom section of wheat thin!
wheat thin
wheat thin
Maura Hahnenberger coming up Wheat Thin
Maura Hahnenberger coming up Wheat Thin
The steeper funner portion.
The steeper funner portion.
Wheat Thin crack.
Wheat Thin crack.
JC nearing the top of Wheat Thin.
JC nearing the top of Wheat Thin.
Wheat thin
Wheat thin
Cruising up the mellow portion of Wheat Thin
Cruising up the mellow portion of Wheat Thin
tradalicious
tradalicious
Gary leading Wheat Thin, the beginning of a fun week of climbing at the City
Gary leading Wheat Thin, the beginning of a fun we...
James Welton
James Welton
Ralph, near the crux, Wheat Thin.
Ralph, near the crux, Wheat Thin.
Andy leading Wheat Thin.
Andy leading Wheat Thin.
Dragan on Wheat thin
Dragan on Wheat thin
Wheat Thin .7
Wheat Thin .7
James Welton on Wheat Thin
James Welton on Wheat Thin
Having fun on Wheat Thin
Having fun on Wheat Thin
Tara on wheat thin
Tara on wheat thin
Dragan and Jason on Wheat Thin
Dragan and Jason on Wheat Thin
Stan Leading "Wheat Thin", Great Day at the City!
Stan Leading "Wheat Thin", Great Day at ...

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Comments on Wheat Thin Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 12, 2014
By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 4, 2004

Really fun climb. Climb this route. It is definitely easier than it looks, on the upper section, the face has tons of good holds if you want to use them.
By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
Jun 23, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Please...please do not toprope this route on weekends when it is crowded. This is THE classic moderate route at the City. Twice I have been here and seen large groups of people TRing this route on a Saturday. If you MUST toprope it, come midweek when nobody is around. TRing this (or any other classic climb) on crowded weekends is selfish and inconsiderate. If you have lots of beginners that you want to take up on the weekend, take each one as a second, one at a time, and lead it over and over again. This allows other groups to jump in and lead through.

If there is a long line of people waiting to lead a route, I don't think anyone can complain. But the second time that I saw people TRing this route, my partner and I moved on to something else while the group behind us stayed around to climb this one since they had never climbed it before. Four hours later they were still waiting (maybe much longer, because we left). Yes, they could have moved on as well, but if the TRers had lead through each time, no one would have had to wait more than say 30 minutes. Moreover, the TRers were doing LAPS! Argh!

There are plenty of nonclassic, yet still good, places to TR on busy days. See, for example, Practice Rock.
By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
Jun 27, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Also, there is a walkoff down the back side.
By Nathan Fisher
Sep 11, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Classic. Much better than Rye Crisp. Don't get sucked into the large crack at the end. Use the face.
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Sep 20, 2006

A classic flake route at the City. This route has seen a number of Teva ascents for those looking for a little spice.
By Woodson
From: Park City, Ut.
Jun 7, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A great route. This eats a lot of nuts, and makes a great first lead at the city!
By jeffozozo
From: santa clara, utah
Oct 16, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

There is a section at about 3/4th the way up, where you have to rely only on the crack, that transitions to face climbing up a little higher that I would rate at harder than 5.7

The book calls it a "committing layback crux" -- I agree, its a bit tricky.
By Christian Weaver
Mar 28, 2010

Vertical Country - Wheat Thin
By Ty Morrison-Heath
From: Bozeman, MT
Apr 26, 2011

Total classic. Take gear from a .5 to #4. Bring enough big cams up to set an anchor at the top. A 70 meter rope is required if you want to tr it. Best moderate I did at the city.
By Hendo
From: Denver, CO
Jul 23, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This route is one of my favorite trad climbs thus far. Very vertical, great placements, great anchor options at the top. Definitely can see why it is a classic. My partner and I could not find the anchors to rap off of, so we walked off the south side. It wasn't bad at all.
By Matt Schroer
From: Logan, Utah
Mar 17, 2013

All around excellence - superb flake that leads to a fun lieback. Just as the flake thins out, holds pop back out onto the face for a good, clean finish. Classic.
By TNORM
Sep 29, 2013

Super positive climbing, really only a few 5.7 moves where it gets steep. I agree, don't get sucked into the OW head R onto the face. Save some big gear 3in and bigger for the anchor.
By Jake Douglas
Oct 12, 2014

From below it looked like there was no pro for the last 25 feet or so when you start to climb on the face, but there ended up being plenty. I placed a #4 in the wide crack/flake, then few more from 0.3-0.5 on the outside of it before topping out on easy terrain. I think I extended them all with single length slings.

Lots of options for building an anchor at the top, but hand size and larger pieces are most convenient.

I was a little nervous about committing to the lieback, but it was fairly secure and you get a big jug to hang on after you pull through the hardest couple moves. Solid route for a new 5.7 leader.