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The Left Side
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Calling All Trad Climbers 
Don't Ask 
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Most of the Time 
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Twisted 
What's Wrong with Parents Today 

What's Wrong with Parents Today 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Vaino Kodas
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 615
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jul 20, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: Upper Left Bihedral area.
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is located down and left of the main Bihedral Rock. See Rossiter's guide, page 96, route one. Climb up a short corner with two bolts on the right side of the rock and just left of a chimney. Reach a steep section and crank through the roof (crux) and up to a ramp. Clip a bolt and make cool moves up the arete/face on great holds past the last bolt and into a nice crack system. Continue up to the anchors.


Protection 

Four bolts plus small to mid-size gear.



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By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jan 1, 2003

The roof crux is a grunt. I placed a red Alien at the lip. The higher crux, moving right, was perplexing and fun. I'd call this about 10c if it were trad. I rarely can onsight 10c trad cleanly in Eldo or Boulder Canyon, but was pretty solid on this.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Nov 3, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Perhaps, the answer is that we're the kids of the parents of yesterday ;) Nice route, 3 interesting cruxes, above the 2nd bolt, you can go L or R. L works. Wires & cams to #1 Camalot worked. Interesting variety of moves. Thanks for putting in the route!

By Jon Lachelt
From: Fort Collins, CO
Dec 21, 2009

A really fun route... but maybe my perspective was skewed by the adrenaline. Went up this w/o reading the info so didn't have any gear with me. Pretty scary at one point moving past the 3rd bolt since I wasn't quite sure which way to go at first (go right, BTW). I actually didn't find any of the moves very hard, just heady when I was run-out.