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What's the hardest pure slab climb in the world?
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Nov 6, 2012
Any thoughts?

Jim
jim.dangle
Joined Jul 13, 2011
2,727 points
Nov 6, 2012
On Waimea, 5.10d
Meltdown is a 9a (5.14d) slab in the UK.

Nalle Hukkataival (Spelling?) has done a couple V13 slab boulder problems. One of them is available on youtube (search V13 slab), and the other can be seen in this video: climbingnarc.com/videos/the-ro...

It'd be fun to see/feel the "holds" on these climbs.
Charles Kinbote
From Brooklyn, NY
Joined Jan 30, 2012
6 points
Nov 6, 2012
Depending on your definition of pure slab, maybe one of Dawes' slate routes? Southern Alex
Joined Mar 5, 2010
6 points
Nov 6, 2012
Meltdown is a steep slab, but I guess if it's under 90 degrees...There are tonsof 5.13 and up slabs in the UK., slate, grit etc. john strand
From southern colo
Joined May 22, 2008
2,259 points
Nov 6, 2012
jim.dangle wrote:
Any thoughts? Jim

Here is a link to a ukc article on meltdown...the vid is pretty short, more of a letdown than a meltdown, but in what's shown, it sure looks a lot more like a face climb than a slab climb in the sense that I've normally understood the term "slab". Not that it isn't unbelievably hard, just that he's crimping and edging and sidepulling... ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?i...

La Pedriza in Spain has a reputation for hard slab...this one looks fairly challenging, 8b+, they say (warning, soundtrack contains didgeridoo, use caution!) climbing.com/video/5-14-slab-c...
Optimistic
From New Paltz
Joined Aug 29, 2007
238 points
Nov 6, 2012
portion control
Possibly still Tokio Muroi's Banshousha in Ogawayama in Japan? - repeated several times, including by Nalle, so if he thinks his new ones are harder they probably are. Banshousha is 8Bish so V12/13. There is also one Muroi did next to it that is harder and still unrepeated I think.

I don't believe Font has any slabs harder than 8B (have not looked carefully though) but those grades are solid (I saw slabmeister Philip Le Denmat fall off a 4c slab once at Font - made my whole trip!)
stow
Joined Aug 31, 2009
59 points
Nov 6, 2012
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...
What was the name of the thing in Yosemite that went unrepeated for more or less forever until it got done again in old-school shoes? Mirror something? Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,493 points
Nov 6, 2012
Tony B wrote:
What was the name of the thing in Yosemite that went unrepeated for more or less forever until it got done again in old-school shoes? Mirror something?


Hall of Mirrors.
Keny Glasscock
From Salt Lake City
Joined Sep 20, 2011
67 points
 


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