Anywhere where a 70 m is now standard like lotsa sierras around bishop area ca. This includes Owens gorge and all the big granite on up into the valley. Linking pitches in the mountains is a must but sometimes the 70 makes you simul the last bit. It was standard historically to make pitches 50 m but in reality and straightened out on the rappel things are no more than 40 m. I've experienced this countless times on routes that everyone suggests bringing 2 ropes. I check the topos on big routes closely and make sure that in the event the 80 won't do it I can use a crack to build an anchor and down climb/aid the sections of the one - two raps as necessary. More often than not the 80 makes it down and in the event you do down aid it is more fun and less work than stacking, managing, and carrying 100m and not having the extra length to link. My thoughts.

You'll see good use of a 80 @ red rocks as well. Anywhere in black velvet canyon and whiskey peak.

Shune's, 4 pitches, all ledges, no hanging.

That IC and the other crags above.

I've also heard that you can rap off of most of the desert towers in the Moab area with just an 80

i met two frenchies at the creek last weekend who were using a 100m rope. they said it was beal. they were toproping the shit out of tall lines.

Ay, l see-- the extra length sits on the ground.

Normally routes are an overestimated "140" feet which often takes into account wandering. The straight line is less and the 80 usually makes it. Knots in the ends fellas! Ive had an 80m stretch the books "165" many times.

Interesting point. Just for shits and giggles, let's say you have an 80m cliffline that has, oh, 35 routes on it. What's cheaper? Adding an extra bolt to each route, or having 10 more meters of rope? Of course, then the argument could be that everyone who wants to climb there has to have an extra 10 meters (at least- most people I know don't have 70m ropes) which would of course be more "wasteful". I see your point, I just don't find it as outrageous or view it as wasteful. If you're using it, you're not wasting it.

I bought an 80 for ice climbing and then used it all summer on rock. The only disadvantage I can come up with is how much it sucks to coil with your hands. Worth the extra cash for the length. really isn't that heavy. The ability to run 80 meter pitches on both ice and rock is awesome. half the belays, twice as fast. 40 meter raps are really long and work in place of doubles most of the time. When you compare the price to that of doubles they're quite a bit cheaper.

stop bitching and pick one up for yourself.

No need to complain. Just tag a line. If the weight is too much, drag the tag line up later. The 80m rope is just a convenience.

Speaking of convenience: What routes in Hyalite benefit from an 80m line? I've never found myself wanting one. The pitches just aren't that long if you like belaying in comfy spots. Especially considering that 2 50m halves give you more for less weight and cost.

Phillip

i got my 80 for $212, shipped to my door. your comment about length of routes being unethical is comical. really????

a 140' route is a rope stretcher to lower with an 80 (very similar to a 120' route with a 70m, or a 100 foot route with a 60m).

is owning an 80 a good idea? depends on where you are using it. if you are climbing at jtree, vedauwoo, etc, where the routes just arent't that long, then obviously it won't be used to its full potential.

other places with long pitches, long raps, etc (red rocks, the desert, the black, etc) the extra length comes in handy.

also, the extra weight... again.... really???? the only time you really carry the extra weight is on the approach. less ice cream, more wheaties....

I"d add Devils Tower to the "spots where an 80m is useful" list. I believe a number of the harder routes on the Incredible Hulk are equipped for rapping with a single 80m line as well.

And speaking of the Hulk, a couple of hardmen I know do massive linkups of multiple Hulk routes using an 80. I don't know whether they used it for the 40m raps or because they found that extra 10m of rope that much more effective for their pitch-linking structure. My guess is the extra 10m was just an added benefit as they were simuling much of the routes anyway.

My wasteful elitist 80m rope gets a lot of use at Indian Creek, and will get me down from the Hulk via the Venturi etc. I can link both pitches on Outer Limits and say 'take.'

An added bonus is that I've never been lowered off the end of my [profligate spendthrift] 80m rope.

It is indeed lighter than carrying 2 50- or 60m ropes.

Where it's not that great is about where you'd think: Penitente, Sand Rock, gritstone. Or when me and the pard each show up for Serenity/Sons with a rope, and mine is eighty meters long. Pulled up a lot of rope that day. If you haven't figured it out by now, it's a cragging rope for places with long pitches.

I apologize for buying such a stupid rope and furthering this regrettable trend. Kids these days!