whats the deal w 80m ropes
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What is the advantage of an 80m rope, or are they a novelty to 'raise the bar'? |
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Absolutely no reasons to have a 80 m ropes. |
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monster sport pitches |
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last longer... |
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Knight of a Woeful Figure wrote:monster sport pitchesI think this is probably the "right" answer. Ondra's recent 15c links together two pitches to make a single 55m climb, so an 80m is probably needed to get back to the ground. |
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Darren Mabe wrote:last longer... you can cut the ends off many times when they wear or get core shot and still have a long enough rope...But you are still carying extra rope for nothing. And by the time you cut off the end many times, nobody want to climb with you because your rope is too worn ! ;-) |
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monster sport ... and linking pitches ... plenty of 70m linked pitches here ... if you anchor with the ropes as all those hardcore traddies say you must .... then you need a longer rope ;) |
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Sport climbing. A lot of new areas are bolted for 70 and 80 meter ropes. Other than that, you can cut the ends when they get worn from projecting. |
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Training weight |
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bearbreeder wrote:monster sport ... and linking pitches ... plenty of 70m linked pitches here ... if you anchor with the ropes as all those hardcore traddies say you must .... then you need a longer rope ;) sure some people will go on about how linking pitches is a bad idea .... yadda yadda yadda ... but if you and yr partner are competent, i see no reason to waste time with extra belays on moderate climbs ;)Yep. There is a time and a place for 70m and up. One of my partners has a 70m and it comes in handy...like connecting pitches and rap'ing off the top of the Grand Teton (as an example). The down side is communication and the gear needed to protect the longer pitch. |
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I had a skinny 80m & liked it for linking pitches when moving fast on long moderates, such as Whodunnit in 4 pitches & |
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Ice cragging in hyalite canyon. hence bluewater hyalite rope. |
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Stiles wrote:What is the advantage of an 80m ropePopular in spots where you need that length of rope to get back to the ground after a long, single pitch. Especially a long, steep route with no mid anchor. A few places in Europe see a fair bit of use with 80m ropes. Not a handy length in the U.S. for most crags. Maybe Mount Charleston is one place they'd be useful? |
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indian creek. |
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Brian in SLC wrote: Not a handy length in the U.S. for most crags. Maybe Mount Charleston is one place they'd be useful?I think that you are actually referring to Clark Mountain? Anyway, there are actually a lot of crags in the US where the 80 is really useful. As many have said already, it is a specialized item. You don't want to be hauling around and 80 at a short single pitch crag (like Rumney, etc), nor is it very useful on multi-pitch routes (I don't really want to link together an 80 meter lead...I don't want to carry that much rack, or to run it out that much). However, for lowering off of long (30-40 meter) single pitch routes, they are absolute gold. Super-long endurance sport pitches are very much in vogue now, and it is way nicer to be able to lower off with one rope than to need a second rope and have to rap off. Another crag where and 80 is incredibly useful is Indian Creek. There are so many routes there with anchors at around 130 feet, requiring all sorts of annoying shenanigans with two ropes. With an 80, however, you can just lower off and even TR the thing on one rope. An while people have mentioned that an 80 is extra weight and hassle, it is way easier and lighter than using two ropes. Lastly, if you think that an 80 seems excessive, you are already behind the times. 100 meter ropes are now popping up in more and more places- and not just in Spain. At crags like Rifle, a lot of the new development is the addition of extensions atop older routes. Have you seen the top section of the Project Wall above the established routes? A beautiful chunk of rock, about 50 meters tall. Bring the 100 meter rope, a drill and some popeye forearms. Then there are the new mega-crags like Wolf Point, Wy, and Joe Kinder's Mondo Cave in Ely, NV. 100 meter ropes are the way of the future. |
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You'd be happy to have one in the creek. |
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Indian Creek. Hopefully, they'll come out with a 9.2mm x 90m soon; I hate hauling up a second line to get off of some of those pitches. |
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remember when 50m ropes were standard? (and 60m were the 'long' ones...) |
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My buddy swears by his at Devil's Tower. Of course they are short approaches, but he loves the long pitches, and getting down/TR from almost anywhere. |
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waltereo wrote:Absolutely no reasons to have a 80 m ropes. 90% trad route pitches are around up to 40-50m length. So you are carrying 30m extra rope for nothing. 80m are only good for top roping on wall of 40m . Cie are just trying to create a new hype on 70m and 80m ropes and find new reasons to make you buy new stuffGo to Europe my friend climb in Ceuse, or anywhere in spain where the big steep limestone routes are going in, I thought the same thing as you until I started climbing with some bad ass frenchies. The routes are long and there are now sick extensions on most the routes, and when you get lowered and your 30-40ft out from the cliff, That's what they are for. |
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They'd be pretty sweet for ice and mixed cragging at the Camp Bird road in Ouray - early in the season you can literally belay from your car even. |