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Whats on your harness?

Original Post
WilliamJ · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 0

We all know about the rack but what else do you bring up with you on multi pitch routes? cordelettes, webbing, extra slings, spare binners for anchors, prusiks, bail gear? Whats your method of getting it all on your harness?

Martin Harris · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 200

it may be stupid but i never bring bail gear if i cant make it up i will resort to c1, but as far as webbign or cord goes it all depends on what i am doing mostly i leave it at the ground unless i know i have to make a trad anchor if i unexpectedly have to make a trad anchor i usally have a few over the shoulders with me any way

Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118

I climb mostly in the Gunks. In addition to my rack of stoppers, tricams, and cams, I carry:

  • Twelve 10mm 24" runners (Mammut, I think). Usually have about 4 hanging over my shoulder with a single biner, and the rest on my harness, each with 2 biners and tripled
  • ATC Guide + locker
  • 2 shoulder length (48") slings one 1 locker
  • Alpine Cock Ring cordellete (16' of 6mm cord with a rap ring tied into it) - Invented by Paul Raphaelson. My favorite method for building a gear anchor
  • "Oh Shit!" biner - Locker with 2 short prussiks, leatherman squirt, 1 quicklink, and about 4' of 9/16" webbing for bailing/replacing stations. Thinking about adding a tibloc.
  • A couple spare lockers and wiregates.
no1nprtclr · · Front range Colorado · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 55

A bottle opener! Serious... But the other end is the nut tool. I think it was made by Trango. They made the carabiner hole

NickinCO · · colorado · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 155
Jon H wrote:I climb mostly in the Gunks. In addition to my rack of stoppers, tricams, and cams, I carry: * Twelve 10mm 24" runners (Mammut, I think). Usually have about 4 hanging over my shoulder with a single biner, and the rest on my harness, each with 2 biners and tripled * ATC Guide + locker * 2 shoulder length (48") slings one 1 locker * Alpine Cock Ring cordellete (16' of 6mm cord with a rap ring tied into it) - Invented by Paul Raphaelson. My favorite method for building a gear anchor * "Oh Shit!" biner - Locker with 2 short prussiks, leatherman squirt, 1 quicklink, and about 4' of 9/16" webbing for bailing/replacing stations. Thinking about adding a tibloc. * A couple spare lockers and wiregates.
I carry pretty much the same thing except my cordellette is 25' and 7mm. It's rapped up into the size of a baseball and clipped on the back of my harness. So far I've carried bail gear in a pack and it's about 15' of 6mm with two rap rings.
Jon Ruland · · Tucson, AZ · Joined May 2007 · Points: 646

me, usually.

Derek W · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 20

10 shoulder length runners tripled with biners. 2 double length runners with single biner each. 2 triple length runners with one biner each (thinking about leaving behind next time.) 2 20' 6mm cordalettes for multipitch with pear locker each. ATC guide with 2 lockers. 1 extra locker. Oh shit biner with rap ring, quick link, fingernail clippers, knife and prussik. If it's an unknown route I carry 10ish feet of 9/16 webbing in my pack for rap anchors. Thinking about throwing 2 or 3 extra loose wiregates in because if I use passive pro at an anchor, I have to steal a biner from something else to make my anchor.

Jonathan Petsch · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 45

Now that it's Christmas time, i carry an assortment of ornaments, tinsel, lights, and garland on my harness.

Jace Mullen · · Oceanside, Ca · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 10

Right now I have:

  • my chalk bag (usually round my waist but I forget it so I clip it on)
  • Cheap A$$ knife
  • Alpine Cock Ring
  • ATC Guide (On Petzl Atache)
  • Metolious PAS w/ locker
  • Auto Block

dang I wish my harness had 4 gear loops. Why would Black Diamond think that 3 would be acceptable?
Chris Plesko · · Westminster, CO · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 485
Jace Mullen wrote:dang I wish my harness had 4 gear loops. Why would Black Diamond think that 3 would be acceptable?
Don't worry, 4 really isn't acceptable either for harness rackers :(
Jace Mullen · · Oceanside, Ca · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 10

I would love 4, and I am thinking of getting a new harness because of it.

It is harder for me to reach to my back right (probably why there isnt a gear loop there) and so I could use that for anchor materials/ Oh-shit biner and my PAS and that would leave me with 3 loops to rack my rack (cams up front left, passive back left, trad draws up right).

Now I am just throwing my passive with everything else and it tends to get cluttered.

Anyone wanna donate to the new-harness fund?

Jay Eggleston · · Denver · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 21,326
Jace Mullen wrote:and so I could use that for anchor materials/ Oh-shit biner and my PAS
Get rid of the PAS and you will have more room. Anchor with the rope and one of the slings you are already carrying.
Jace Mullen · · Oceanside, Ca · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 10

Good call.

Never thought to replace that with the slings I'm carrying.

It actually doesn't really have much benifit since I usually clove the rope into the anchor anyways...

England · · Colorado Springs · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 270
Jace Mullen wrote:Good call. Never thought to replace that with the slings I'm carrying. It actually doesn't really have much benifit since I usually clove the rope into the anchor anyways...
That's the way to go! Really cuts down on the gear, nicely done.
Dave Swink · · Boulder, Co · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 285

When following:

  • attached to my haul loop: tightly rolled 12' webbing & teeny knife & tibloc on a leaver biner plus 24" cordelette for autoblock or prusik plus two 12" slings to extend raps
  • nut tool
  • three lockers
  • 3/4 liter water bottle
(headlamp & teeny rain jacket & shoes go into small pack)

When leading I add:
  • 6 extra biners
  • two 20' cordelettes
  • six 12" slings
  • eight 48" slings
Kat A · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 510
Jace Mullen wrote:...dang I wish my harness had 4 gear loops. Why would Black Diamond think that 3 would be acceptable?
lemme guess - you have an XS Black Diamond Momentum harness? I had that one with only 3 loops due to the small size and it drove me bonkers. Other harnesses will have smaller gear loops in the small sizes.
Jace Mullen · · Oceanside, Ca · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 10

Yup, maybe small.

I bought it when I was 12 and I'm 16 now so yeah, I fer sure need to pick up one that fits me. I mean it KINDA does, the little velcro part doesn't anymore.

ThreadJack:

What do you guys have on your "Oh Shit!" biner and why?

ClimberRunner · · Redmond, WA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 25

Jeez people! Bring less shit!

Seriously, I'd bet $1000 there's an inverse correlation between skills and quantity of "extra" or "just in case" gear carried.

Quicklinks? Rap Rings? 40' of tat and 8 lockers, a leatherman, whistle, and flare gun... all this to head up a 3 or 4 pitch trade route?

Bring less stupid stuff and you'll climb a lot harder.

Rope+ some slings+ a hangable belay device and 2 lockers (an ultralight one to hang from, and a roundstock one to belay through.)

anchor in with the rope, clove to the ultralight/device-hanging locker.

and if you REALLY need to bail, just leave one of the wiregates you have, not that stupid quicklink/rap ring that you've hauled around for the last 200 pitches.

You can rap off a sling, so unless you are building a rappel station that you hope many other parties will routinely use, why waste the time and effort of carrying around (and then leaving) a rap ring?

ClimberRunner · · Redmond, WA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 25
Dave Swink wrote:When following: * attached to my haul loop: tightly rolled 12' webbing & teeny knife & tibloc on a leaver biner plus 24" cordelette for autoblock or prusik plus two 12" slings to extend raps * nut tool * three lockers * 3/4 liter water bottle (headlamp & teeny rain jacket & shoes go into small pack) When leading I add: * 6 extra biners * two 20' cordelettes * six 12" slings * eight 48" slings
Good plan. Because now in addition to being able to build and connect 2 separate multi-point anchors mid-pitch with your first two 20' cordelettes, you can sling out 14 separate pieces of pro on single or double runners, and still have 12 feet of webbing, 3 shorter slings, 3 lockers, and SIX misc biners atop the pitch. You know... just in case shit gets serious in a hurry.
Dave Swink · · Boulder, Co · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 285

Al,

Haha, hope that list helps you out. You are right, I do not climb very hard.

I have gotten out of some messes that I have climbed into though.

ClimberRunner · · Redmond, WA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 25

I'm not trying to be (too much of) a jerk, I just know you'd have a better time and an easier day climbing without all that extra gear dangling from your harness.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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