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Sep 22, 2011
on Pack Animal Direct
WilliamJ wrote:
We all know about the rack but what else do you bring up with you on multi pitch routes? cordelettes, webbing, extra slings, spare binners for anchors, prusiks, bail gear? Whats your method of getting it all on your harness?


On multi-pitch trad, I'll typically have a couple of cordolettes for use as anchor rigging. On lead, I rack one on my harness with a lightweight locker- the other goes on my second's harness. If it's sport, I leave the cordolettes behind and instead carry slings and lockers sufficient to have two anchors.

In addition to my belay device and a spare locker (which I use to clove in on the rope), I also usually have a wiregate biner with a couple of prussiks and a lightweight locking knife on it. This I rack on my harness.
The prussiks see use as haul rigging, could serve as makeshift ascenders, autoblocs on rappel, and could be used to reinforce a rap station.
The knife is for removing weathered tat from old rap stations, or adding reinforcing material (such as sections of a cordolette or rope), and for lending to friends who need a knife but don't have one.
The biner all these things are racked on will serve as a rap ring/bail biner.

I also typically stuff a headlamp in a zippered thigh pocket- daylight being the precious commodity it is, I often end up rapping off in the dark.

For longer routes (where I expect to be on the route for many hours, or maybe I have concerns about weather) I have a small pack (rei's flash 18) to carry water, food, a light shell or layer piece, or maybe shoes for a walk-off.
ChrisJoosse
Joined Jun 8, 2009
84 points
Oct 10, 2012
Grand Teton selfie
This is the gear that comes with for the all day multi-pitch routes and I carry these no matter if I'm leading or not:
-2 prussik cords, one short and one longer. I use one as an auto-block for rapping, and the other for self rescue.
-PAS w/ locker (I use the rope and PAS to secure myself).
-ATC Guide w/ locker.
-Nut tool w/ dummy cord.
-Knife on wiregate biner.

If I'm leading:
-All cams go on my gear sling.
-Nuts go on front right gear loop and hexes on left.
-4 24" slings doubled back w/ 2 wire gate biners.
-6 48" slings doubled back w/ 2 wire gate biners.
-6 quickdraws.
-2 cordeletts. (I'm not always swinging leads to always use the rope for anchor building. One is carried by the 2nd)
-2 extra locking biners.

In Camel Back: (If I lead, my 2nd carries this.)
-3 liters of water.
-Gerber multi-tool.
-Headlamp.
-First aid pouch which has gauze, tape, ice pack, ibuprofen, compression bandages, alcohol, CPR mask, and whistle. Basicly the tools needed as a first responder and being a combat lifesaver in the army that I would need to keep you from dieing in 30 minutes.
-Rain jacket.
-Cliff Bars.
-20' webbing + rap ring.
Jeremy Riesberg
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jun 3, 2012
22 points
Oct 10, 2012
Chillin' at City of Rocks
Wow!
Some of you folk bring a lot. I try to bring as little as possible.
Light is right!!!!!!
Princess Mia
From Vail
Joined May 22, 2006
422 points
Oct 11, 2012
Wow, I thought I brought alot of extraneous stuff. I usually have a couple of double length runners on a biner, my piece of cord that I used as my prussic backup when rapping, and my atc guide. I find that if I carry a bunch of stuff, I find uses for it, but if I don't carry stuff, I don't need it. I've ditched my ATC to save weight, and once even went without a harness and used 15ft of webbing instead to save weight on snake dike. John D
Joined Nov 24, 2010
21 points
Oct 11, 2012
Usually:
shoulder length runner/anchor of some sort girthed to my harness w/ locker
a couple spare lockers
maybe a double length runner/cordalette
a spare oval
nut tool
belay device
laminated pages from freedom of the hills 7th edition.
frankstoneline
Joined Apr 23, 2009
22 points
Mia carrying all that crap would get you stuck in a squeeze chimney. Shoot, when I was trying to climb hand job in Yosemite I took my belay device off my harness because it kept hanging up in the beast.

Jon
Oct 11, 2012
Cold day at Smug's
chufftard wrote:
I carry as much as possible because it makes me more awesomer.

Judging by some of the posts here, you're going to have to really go that extra mile if you want to be more awesomer than the next guy. I suggest finding the post here that lists the most stuff carried and then carry two of everything listed. For redundancy.
csproul
From Davis, CA
Joined Dec 3, 2009
214 points
Oct 11, 2012
Chillin' at City of Rocks
J Hazard wrote:
Mia carrying all that crap would get you stuck in a squeeze chimney. Shoot, when I was trying to climb hand job in Yosemite I took my belay device off my harness because it kept hanging up in the beast. Jon


Hehe
Yeah I rather carry nothing on my harness when I'm slithering up those OWs. And really, why the heck would I bring a laminated copy of FOTH???? Gee....
Princess Mia
From Vail
Joined May 22, 2006
422 points
Oct 11, 2012
Most useful items I tend to have are a folded up coat hanger, and a tiny razor blade for cutting the rope (or tat). DannyUncanny
From Vancouver
Joined Aug 27, 2010
78 points
Oct 11, 2012
Brass monkey
A card from the gym saying I'm top rope belay certified. Im so proud of it. Brassmonkey
Joined Jan 19, 2012
70 points
Oct 11, 2012
In addition to the rack, belay gear, PAS, and a selection of runners and draws, I carry a cord with 2 lockers (one to clip in the reverso, one to clove hitch in), and an "oh-shit" biner (an oval wire with a tibloc ascender, e-lite headlamp, spatha knife, and my houdini jacket). Daniel Wade
From Oakland, CA.
Joined Jan 29, 2012
34 points
Oct 11, 2012
Colonel Mustard
Hope, love, and a nut tool. Hugs <3!!!!! Colonel Mustard
Joined Sep 13, 2005
1,382 points
Oct 11, 2012
Born again on the last move of the Red Dihedral, h...
3 extra locking biners and a daisy for anchoring and I use a prusik cord for my chalk bag. No more. Eric D
From Gnarnia
Joined Nov 29, 2006
212 points
Oct 12, 2012
Depends on the route but typically

Wild Country Synchro harness (7 gear loops plus haul loop and a ice clipper. I keep my belay device and autoblock on the ice clipper)
Protection (duh)
alpine draws (all tripled onm my harness)
1-2 double length slings balled up, each on a wire gate
0-1 quad length sling (depends on if I'm bringing cordalettes and how many doubles)
0-2 5.5mm titan cordalettes, if i need to build gear anchors
1-2 vaporlocks for clove hitching into anchors (2 if using doubles or twins)
1 positron locker for hooking atc guide to powerpoint
3 spare wire gates for random things
autoblock prussik on a small biner
ATC guide with belay biner
2 quick links
knife
6mm bail cord
super light belay plate (backup)
AKM1878
Joined Jan 20, 2012
17 points
Oct 12, 2012
Other than basic pro and slings for a climb, I always have 3 lockers and 1 non locker on the back of my MM-Titan harness that get left there.
1) locker with a Reverso belay device to be used every climb
2) Locker with nut tool (dummy cord attached), belay gloves, and a Trango piranha knife. Not always used, but usually is.
3) cordelette with 3 lockers, used on most climbs.
4) non locker - approach shoes, maybe a Stoic wraith UL windbreaker and headlamp based on season and location. Serves as bail crab and keeping approach gear

Here is my rational for the gear and why I think it should be more than enough for any climb.
The cord can be cut with the knife to make 2-3 bail anchors if you really want. After that cut the rope a few feet if you have more raps and need bail cord. This same cord and guide mode ATC can ascend the rope. You could also cut a section for prusik knots and self rescue. This is not an ideal rescue kit, but if you are self rescuing, things are not ideal, so deal with it. Chances are you are not rapping down El Cap and are usually on the ground or walk off after a few raps at most. I mean really, how often do you really bail and require leaving gear. Maybe once a season? If more, maybe you should reassess your ability to get up the climb you are attempting.
I also think keeping a dedicated bail carabiner above and beyond this much gear is pointless. For how often you actually have to bail and leave a carabiner, you might as well just leave one of your regularly used carabiners and eat the $8, not carry some grooved out death crab to save a couple bucks.
DrApnea
From Wenatchee, WA
Joined May 24, 2011
191 points
Oct 23, 2012
CoR
Didn't see it mentioned so I'll add it. A POLYPROPYLENE HAT. The small light ones can be stuffed in your pocket, worn under your helmet, and take up less space than a small camera, and weighs less than a carbiner. If you get injured or have an unexpected night out it can save your life. It is the lightest piece of clothing that can make the biggest difference. rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Joined Jul 18, 2011
181 points
Jan 22, 2013
City of Rocks
Flask of Scotch, good idea, going to the kitchen now to add that to my pack! Perhaps the FotH is for reading if he gets stuck up on the side of the rock overnight, laminated in case it's raining too.

Ha ha. You guys are funny.
Hiro
From Colorado
Joined Apr 2, 2012
421 points
Jan 22, 2013
Always on my harness (because I'll forget if I take them off :P)

-ATC Guide (gridlock biner)
-GriGri2 (Vaporlock biner)
-Bluewater PAS (Madrock small locker)
-nut tool
-Madrock wiregate with the following three things on it.
-1/2 Finger gloves
-Gerber Remix
-Rap ring with two tiny prussics on it.

Then depending on the route or who I'm climbing with I'll have a locking oval with my microtrax on it, 2-5 lockers, and small cordelette hanging on the lockers. I'd rather caryy a tiny bit more wight and be able to do self rescue stuff.
NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Joined Oct 6, 2011
116 points
Jan 22, 2013
DannyUncanny wrote:
Most useful items I tend to have are a folded up coat hanger, and a tiny razor blade for cutting the rope (or tat).


For the partners who take too damn long/ give up too easy? :P
NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Joined Oct 6, 2011
116 points
Administrator
Jan 22, 2013
El Chorro
Wow i just reviewed my response - a PINT if whiskey? Surprised no one called me out on that! It's actually more like a pint of red-wine or a 5oz flask of whiskey. Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,468 points
Feb 9, 2013
Smile for the camera.  Me topping out of Pice of C...
Mulit pitch

-couple length of 7mm cord (20' length)
-atc guide with two locking biners
-nut tool
-two 48" slings with biners clipped around my chest
-a zippered chaulk bag containing gu packs, insulin, syringes, and my blood glucose meter (I'm a type 1 diabetic)
-knife
Chad Miller
From Grand Junction, CO
Joined Nov 8, 2006
149 points
Feb 9, 2013
I eat crack for breakfast.
If you really want to go fast and light, you don't bring a harness. Or clothes. Alex Washburne
Joined Apr 29, 2010
74 points
Feb 9, 2013
Ice gear
+1 Alex. Naked and Barefoot. Anything else is aid. LeftCoastGeek
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Mar 19, 2008
25 points
Feb 9, 2013
My rappellstein. And stuff to put in it. Purely to assist with heat dissipation. robrobrobrob
Joined Oct 23, 2012
10 points
Feb 9, 2013
Jose Cuervo Fruitcups dirtbag style
NorCalNomad wrote:
-ATC Guide (gridlock biner) -GriGri2 (Vaporlock biner)


You can replace them both with a Mammut Smart.

DannyUncanny wrote:
Most useful items I tend to have are a folded up coat hanger


Thanks for reminding me to pack one into my Creek pack!

Not sure if anyone mentioned, but I also always carry a super minimalistic First Aid kit - a maxi pad (to stop bleeding), 2 things of Vicodin, few low-dose aspirins (I switched from Ibuprofen in case of heart attacks and clots) and Benadryl. Awesome tip on cayenne pepper, Dominion Rognstad!
doligo
Joined Sep 26, 2008
408 points


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