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Whats on your harness?
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By WilliamJ
Dec 1, 2010
We all know about the rack but what else do you bring up with you on multi pitch routes? cordelettes, webbing, extra slings, spare binners for anchors, prusiks, bail gear? Whats your method of getting it all on your harness?

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By martinharris
From Glenwood Springs CO
Dec 1, 2010
it may be stupid but i never bring bail gear if i cant make it up i will resort to c1, but as far as webbign or cord goes it all depends on what i am doing mostly i leave it at the ground unless i know i have to make a trad anchor if i unexpectedly have to make a trad anchor i usally have a few over the shoulders with me any way

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By Jon H
From Boulder
Dec 1, 2010
At the matching crux
I climb mostly in the Gunks. In addition to my rack of stoppers, tricams, and cams, I carry:

  • Twelve 10mm 24" runners (Mammut, I think). Usually have about 4 hanging over my shoulder with a single biner, and the rest on my harness, each with 2 biners and tripled
  • ATC Guide + locker
  • 2 shoulder length (48") slings one 1 locker
  • Alpine Cock Ring cordellete (16' of 6mm cord with a rap ring tied into it) - Invented by Paul Raphaelson. My favorite method for building a gear anchor
  • "Oh Shit!" biner - Locker with 2 short prussiks, leatherman squirt, 1 quicklink, and about 4' of 9/16" webbing for bailing/replacing stations. Thinking about adding a tibloc.
  • A couple spare lockers and wiregates.

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By no1nprtclr
From Front range Colorado
Dec 1, 2010
A bottle opener! Serious... But the other end is the nut tool. I think it was made by Trango. They made the carabiner hole

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By NickinCO
From colorado
Dec 1, 2010
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.
Jon H wrote:
I climb mostly in the Gunks. In addition to my rack of stoppers, tricams, and cams, I carry: * Twelve 10mm 24" runners (Mammut, I think). Usually have about 4 hanging over my shoulder with a single biner, and the rest on my harness, each with 2 biners and tripled * ATC Guide + locker * 2 shoulder length (48") slings one 1 locker * Alpine Cock Ring cordellete (16' of 6mm cord with a rap ring tied into it) - Invented by Paul Raphaelson. My favorite method for building a gear anchor * "Oh Shit!" biner - Locker with 2 short prussiks, leatherman squirt, 1 quicklink, and about 4' of 9/16" webbing for bailing/replacing stations. Thinking about adding a tibloc. * A couple spare lockers and wiregates.



I carry pretty much the same thing except my cordellette is 25' and 7mm. It's rapped up into the size of a baseball and clipped on the back of my harness. So far I've carried bail gear in a pack and it's about 15' of 6mm with two rap rings.

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By Jon Ruland
From Tucson, AZ
Dec 1, 2010
sending Hard Day at the Orifice
me, usually.

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By Derek W
Dec 1, 2010
First summit of First Flatiron
10 shoulder length runners tripled with biners. 2 double length runners with single biner each. 2 triple length runners with one biner each (thinking about leaving behind next time.) 2 20' 6mm cordalettes for multipitch with pear locker each. ATC guide with 2 lockers. 1 extra locker. Oh shit biner with rap ring, quick link, fingernail clippers, knife and prussik. If it's an unknown route I carry 10ish feet of 9/16 webbing in my pack for rap anchors. Thinking about throwing 2 or 3 extra loose wiregates in because if I use passive pro at an anchor, I have to steal a biner from something else to make my anchor.

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By Jonathan Petsch
From Chattanooga, TN
Dec 1, 2010
Now that it's Christmas time, i carry an assortment of ornaments, tinsel, lights, and garland on my harness.

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By Jace Mullen
From Oceanside, Ca
Jan 13, 2011
Right now I have:
  • my chalk bag (usually round my waist but I forget it so I clip it on)
  • Cheap A$$ knife
  • Alpine Cock Ring
  • ATC Guide (On Petzl Atache)
  • Metolious PAS w/ locker
  • Auto Block

dang I wish my harness had 4 gear loops. Why would Black Diamond think that 3 would be acceptable?

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By Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Jan 13, 2011
OMG, I winz!!!
Jace Mullen wrote:
dang I wish my harness had 4 gear loops. Why would Black Diamond think that 3 would be acceptable?


Don't worry, 4 really isn't acceptable either for harness rackers :(

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By Jace Mullen
From Oceanside, Ca
Jan 13, 2011
I would love 4, and I am thinking of getting a new harness because of it.

It is harder for me to reach to my back right (probably why there isnt a gear loop there) and so I could use that for anchor materials/ Oh-shit biner and my PAS and that would leave me with 3 loops to rack my rack (cams up front left, passive back left, trad draws up right).

Now I am just throwing my passive with everything else and it tends to get cluttered.

Anyone wanna donate to the new-harness fund?

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By Jay Eggleston
From Denver
Jan 13, 2011
Berlin
Jace Mullen wrote:
and so I could use that for anchor materials/ Oh-shit biner and my PAS


Get rid of the PAS and you will have more room. Anchor with the rope and one of the slings you are already carrying.

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By Jace Mullen
From Oceanside, Ca
Jan 13, 2011
Good call.

Never thought to replace that with the slings I'm carrying.

It actually doesn't really have much benifit since I usually clove the rope into the anchor anyways...

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By England
From ?
Jan 13, 2011
Alpine toothpick.
Jace Mullen wrote:
Good call. Never thought to replace that with the slings I'm carrying. It actually doesn't really have much benifit since I usually clove the rope into the anchor anyways...

That's the way to go! Really cuts down on the gear, nicely done.

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By Dave Swink
From Boulder, Co
Jan 13, 2011
When following:
  • attached to my haul loop: tightly rolled 12' webbing & teeny knife & tibloc on a leaver biner plus 24" cordelette for autoblock or prusik plus two 12" slings to extend raps
  • nut tool
  • three lockers
  • 3/4 liter water bottle
(headlamp & teeny rain jacket & shoes go into small pack)

When leading I add:
  • 6 extra biners
  • two 20' cordelettes
  • six 12" slings
  • eight 48" slings

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By Kat A
From Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Jan 14, 2011
Summit of Chasm View
Jace Mullen wrote:
...dang I wish my harness had 4 gear loops. Why would Black Diamond think that 3 would be acceptable?

lemme guess - you have an XS Black Diamond Momentum harness? I had that one with only 3 loops due to the small size and it drove me bonkers. Other harnesses will have smaller gear loops in the small sizes.

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By Jace Mullen
From Oceanside, Ca
Jan 14, 2011
Yup, maybe small.

I bought it when I was 12 and I'm 16 now so yeah, I fer sure need to pick up one that fits me. I mean it KINDA does, the little velcro part doesn't anymore.

ThreadJack:

What do you guys have on your "Oh Shit!" biner and why?

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By ClimberRunner
From Redmond, WA
Jan 14, 2011
Jeez people! Bring less shit!

Seriously, I'd bet $1000 there's an inverse correlation between skills and quantity of "extra" or "just in case" gear carried.

Quicklinks? Rap Rings? 40' of tat and 8 lockers, a leatherman, whistle, and flare gun... all this to head up a 3 or 4 pitch trade route?

Bring less stupid stuff and you'll climb a lot harder.

Rope+ some slings+ a hangable belay device and 2 lockers (an ultralight one to hang from, and a roundstock one to belay through.)

anchor in with the rope, clove to the ultralight/device-hanging locker.

and if you REALLY need to bail, just leave one of the wiregates you have, not that stupid quicklink/rap ring that you've hauled around for the last 200 pitches.

You can rap off a sling, so unless you are building a rappel station that you hope many other parties will routinely use, why waste the time and effort of carrying around (and then leaving) a rap ring?

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By ClimberRunner
From Redmond, WA
Jan 14, 2011
Dave Swink wrote:
When following: * attached to my haul loop: tightly rolled 12' webbing & teeny knife & tibloc on a leaver biner plus 24" cordelette for autoblock or prusik plus two 12" slings to extend raps * nut tool * three lockers * 3/4 liter water bottle (headlamp & teeny rain jacket & shoes go into small pack) When leading I add: * 6 extra biners * two 20' cordelettes * six 12" slings * eight 48" slings


Good plan. Because now in addition to being able to build and connect 2 separate multi-point anchors mid-pitch with your first two 20' cordelettes, you can sling out 14 separate pieces of pro on single or double runners, and still have 12 feet of webbing, 3 shorter slings, 3 lockers, and SIX misc biners atop the pitch. You know... just in case shit gets serious in a hurry.

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By Dave Swink
From Boulder, Co
Jan 14, 2011
Al,

Haha, hope that list helps you out. You are right, I do not climb very hard.

I have gotten out of some messes that I have climbed into though.

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By ClimberRunner
From Redmond, WA
Jan 14, 2011
I'm not trying to be (too much of) a jerk, I just know you'd have a better time and an easier day climbing without all that extra gear dangling from your harness.

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By Dave Swink
From Boulder, Co
Jan 14, 2011
Naw, your point is valid. I find that I can lead routes that are new to me with a bolder attitude knowing I can bail without gear worries, but I am still a relatively new leader. No doubt, my harness will lighten up as I gain experience. The OP does not state his experience in his profile, but the post sounds like a fairly new leader-type question.

Between getting off route twice and getting rained out in the middle of a flatiron three times last year, that twelve feet of tat and biner probably averaged no more 25 pitches. I am not sure if that provides justification or makes me a noob.

Attempted snark: you are aware you posted route comments about bringing twelve draws on a 15 bolt climb, right? Ha

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By JPVallone
Jan 14, 2011
Well on my harness I always have a belay loop, a few gear loops, 2-4 depending on my objective and harness for the day, so many to choose from. There is usually two leg loops and some nice little keeper straps that hold my leg loops up in the back, and last but not least my harness usually has a waist loop or the belt part if you will, with a fancy looking buckle to hold it closed and keep it all together. Thats mostly what's on my harness.

But seriously, The infinite ways to answer this question is somewhat ridiculous, It depends. It's a new list for every climb, how do you answer this question with all the variables?

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By will smith
From boulder
Jan 14, 2011
3 lockers
everything else is on the rack

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By Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Jan 14, 2011
OMG, I winz!!!
will smith wrote:
3 lockers everything else is on the rack


and if you need to partner rescue?

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By Larry S
Jan 14, 2011
The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.
I keep a rap-ring, tiblocs, and knife in zipper pocket of my chalk bag. I've used all of them though i could get by with just the knife. Cordolette + big rigging locker and 1 light locker. 6-9 shoulder length slings and 3 90cm slings, tripled with light biners. Usually one 48" sling too. I know it's alot of slings, but I climb mostly wandering face routes and it keeps the drag down, esp when linking. If i don't know the rap route, i'll carry some 9/16 webbing, otherwise it stays in the pack. Autoblock cord and light backup belay device (old mammut fuse) clipped on a locker on the back. I wouldn't go out of my way to get a spare belay dev, there are other solutions with what you're already carrying. But i have one and I like to have it in case one of us drops theirs.

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