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What's Its Face 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Yost, Steve Case
Page Views: 421
Submitted By: Tom Helvie on Jan 25, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Located in the center of the shady North face of the Faulty Tower. Scramble up 3rd class terrain and lean out to clip the first bolt on the lip of the roof. Crank over the crux roof and then climb up on large, slopey holds to a juggy horizontal crack. head up and right on the horizontal and then continue straight up to the last bolt. At the last bolt cut hard left to an annoying anchor clip at a non-stance.


7 bolts to open shuts

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By Kris Spevak
Jun 2, 2010

Fun move between first and second bolt; then nice climbing with straightforward moves until the anchor. I am 5'7" and could not clip the anchors from the last semi-decent stance-so the moves here were much harder than 10b for me.
By rickziegler
Mar 21, 2012

Worn, open shuts have been replaced with new stainless steel bolts and mussy hooks. Paid for with donations collected at Wilson's Eastside and the Rubber Room.
By Austin Archer
From: Bishop, Ca.
Jan 23, 2014

In regards to the "new anchor," the right hanger is spinning and the bolt is poking out a bit, the rock looks a little eroded behind the left hanger, maybe from when it was drilled. The route has a nice location, fun moves.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 2, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Not a good route, and with the terrible belay stance, one wonders why it was bolted at all.

The second bolt is literally underneath the jug you really want to use- I found it near impossible to not rest my palm on the hanger while clipping. Not sure how solid the rock is at owens, but i'd never drill a bolt that shallow in sandstone.

The last bolt is...really far to the right, and while you want to clip it, it may be better not to? I'm not sure. Frankly, the anchor should probably be where the last bolt is, as getting to the anchor is goofy and not much fun.

All in all, my least favorite route i've done in the gorge.
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