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What's everyone fav wire gate 'biners?
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Apr 10, 2013
Ronin
+1 for heliums. Pricey but smooth and relatively light. I do not like my Trango superflys, the nose hook catches on everything. Perfect size in my opinion, easy to hold and clip. Some prefer smaller biners - I am not one of those folks - so try holding and clipping your candidate biner and see how it feels to you. Sean Brady
From Boulder, Colorado
Joined Aug 3, 2012
33 points
Apr 12, 2013
Heliums, if you want to spend the money. I prefer the tradeoff of the BD Oz. DuncanKL
Joined Aug 30, 2008
1 points
Apr 12, 2013
Neutrinos for racking, and camp photons for alpine draws. Light weight and super easy to clip. Plus they are on clearence at rei.
rei.com/product/810825/camp-us...
Bunkin
Joined Mar 24, 2013
0 points
Apr 12, 2013
yaak crack Red Rock Canyon, NV
+1 for Neutrinos. Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Joined Aug 15, 2008
357 points
Apr 13, 2013
In the traverse section, double rainbow in the bac...
For sport quickdraws, BD Livewires are just about the best biner you can buy. They might be a little heavy and bulky for a trad rack though. Alex McIntyre
From Tucson, AZ
Joined Jan 14, 2011
377 points
Apr 13, 2013
Trundling a death block. Photo by Dan Gambino.
Bunkin wrote:
camp photons Light weight and super easy to clip.



Yep.

josh
J. Thompson
From denver, co
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,739 points
Apr 13, 2013
Trango Superfly

trango.com/carabiners_draws/Su...
Robert Cort
Joined Oct 12, 2009
804 points
Apr 13, 2013
Trango's Superfly has been a favorite of mine, but they just released the Phase, which seems pretty worthy. They're light, compact, but have a nice wide gate opening so they don't catch my fat fingers. They also come in straight and bent gates. Definitely a strong contender to me. Christopher Barlow
Joined Dec 29, 2006
534 points
Apr 13, 2013
Capitol Peak
CAMP Photon wires are nice and light. The spring is stiff. I recently picked up some OP Five-O's and like the gate better but they are a lot heavier. BD Ovalwire is nice if you want an oval. ColinM
From Escondido, CA
Joined Feb 17, 2012
35 points
Apr 14, 2013
My vote is for the large Ange. They are on the pricey end though. I could see myself using the Edelrid 19g for racking random bits of gear, or connecting webbing to webbing, but I don't think I would want to run the rope through it. DannyUncanny
From Vancouver
Joined Aug 27, 2010
78 points
Jul 24, 2013
Sam Perkins; Ground-up FA; named because it's big ...
I have all these biners and I still like hotwires. They have a big gate for clove hitches, they're easy to clip, and I haven't had a sticky gate in all these years. They're heavier; OH WAA!

Heliums are light but the gates have a tendency to stick for whatever reason. Those OP ovals, too. The Heliums also have a bulbous nose which sucks for bolts and pitons. I also have some Xenons and have experienced the same gate issue. I also have some DMM snagless biners, but the gate action is very strong and unwelcome when tired. Really nice huge gate, though. Fixe makes one which seems to be the best of all worlds.

Nanos, Neutrinos, picos whatever: too small. The gate is tiny and you can't easily hitch them unless you're climbing with floss (OK you CAN hitch them but it takes longer and I want to move anchors quickly). I use them on occasion but try to keep them off the rope-end of stuff. Good for racking radios and nut tools I guess.

The Petzl Ange is horrible to clip and gets the flaming turd award. I refuse to climb with them. With the one 'wire' (more like a nail), the thumb slips off easily. The only advantage is they are expensive so if you're a yupster douchebag you can feel better about your rack and how much better you're going to climb because you weigh less (mostly due to being fleeced of money)
Ball
From Oakridge, OR
Joined Jan 18, 2010
81 points
Jul 24, 2013
me
+ 1 for the camp photons, I prefer them over the BD neutrinos. Rob Selter
From running springs Ca
Joined Feb 11, 2012
163 points
Jul 24, 2013
Mt Whitney April
Whichever ones are on sale at Oriental Trading - 500 units for about 30 green backs! They are only rated to about 15lbs so I would be careful and either double them up or just buy all locking carabiners those are sure to at least double the weight rating. : )


+2 for BD Hotwires
Sdm1568
From Ca
Joined Aug 7, 2012
155 points
Jul 24, 2013
uintas
+1 for WC Nitros, I love em!! Mattberr
From utah
Joined May 1, 2010
47 points
Jul 24, 2013
Oz/Nuetrino for racking cams, Nitro for rope-side of slings/QDs, Nano for random stuff (belay gloves, approach shoes, etc.)

For the cam biners, you have to balance a lot of things. You're carrying a lot of them, so size and weight matter. Some of the time you'll clip the rope directly, other times you'll extend with a sling or alpine draw. Color-coding helps you grab the right piece of gear. For me, I think the Oz are worth the premium due to the lighter weight, smaller thickness (helps them pack onto gear loops), and the no-hook nose which makes it easier for my second to clean an extended placement.

Unlike the cam biners, the rope-side biners will only be used to clip the rope and you'll use most of them on every pitch. Focus on ease of clipping. I personally like the Nitros.

Random biners should be as small and light as possible. I like the Nanos, but they are way too small to consider using for time-critical purposes.
wfscot
From Boulder, CO
Joined Apr 19, 2013
40 points
Jul 24, 2013
Goofin on the Frogs Head Arch before I rap off.
All my trad draws are made with Madrock Ultralights. I love those biners, and they are relatively cheap. Boots Ylectric
From Roselle IL
Joined Apr 11, 2012
155 points
Jul 24, 2013
Profile Pic
My favorite wiregate is the Edelrid Mission carabiner. I use it on all of my "trad-draws".
It weighs 25 gramms and has, for itīs weight, the biggest gate opening.
Also it is made in Italy and not in China.
Moritz B.
Joined Mar 7, 2013
189 points
Jul 25, 2013
The irony if the guy up thread calling folks "yupster douche bags" for liking Anges and then talking about "racking radios" in the same post made my day.

I prefer the BD hoodwires and larger Anges myself. The smaller Anges are ok too, but I climb a lot in the winter as well and find them hard to use with gloves on.
Derek Doucet
Joined Apr 26, 2010
186 points
Jul 25, 2013
James Xu wrote:
Omega Pacific JCs! They've been discontinued a few years back but are my go-to clipping biners.


Yeah, seriously, I know they weren't the ultra light biners, but those things clipped amazingly, dogbone hung well on them, and that rope-bearing surface was just totally awesome.

I still have no clue why they stopped making those. Favorite biner of all time.
Pete Spri
Joined Jun 1, 2009
138 points
Jul 25, 2013
I still use and love my JCs. They stopped making them because they cost too much to make? At least that's what they told me. I bet its the tooling and production cost associated with the channel that ran along the spine for weight reduction?

I am partial to ClimbTech but have to say that these are my favorite rope end clipping carabiner though...relatively light, smooth and rounded bar stock so the rope runs nice and smooth, it had a nice deep "basket" if you like to lead with a finger when clipping away from your body...not to mention they just look great.

I have them reserved on my "road trip" rack so don't use them too much. :)
Chris Vinson
Joined Jul 9, 2012
67 points
Jul 25, 2013
Pano of Choas in the P2 crux. Undercling-high-step...
Mammut Moses. I use them on just about everything from racking to draws. TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Joined Jun 2, 2009
2,681 points
Jul 25, 2013
WC Astros for alpine and racking gear. J C Wilks
From Loveland, CO
Joined Aug 29, 2006
301 points
Jul 25, 2013
The TANK!!!
BD OZs were my favorite but I just got a set of the new Cypher Midas biners. They are a fair bit lighter than OZs and the same inner size. The price point is pretty good on them to right now. Tank Evans
Joined Nov 6, 2007
142 points
Jul 25, 2013
The top of the tufa on Magma
Wild Country Heliums by far. Light, big gate opening, no nose to catch. I dig the Hoodwires and Oz biners with the hood tech too, but has anyone ever noticed how sharp (like razor sharp) the rounded end of the wire gate is on those things. I noticed that they were sometimes getting caught up in slings when they rotated and every one on my rack has the same sharp cutting edge at the rounded ends at the base of the gate. That concerned me enough to go to the heliums. Patrick Mulligan
Joined Oct 12, 2011
1,183 points
Jul 25, 2013
Maybe this is too basic a question. But can any normal biner be used for a bail out biner during a lead climb? If not, what must be the biner that I should be looking for? bazinga
From Minneapolis, MN
Joined Mar 22, 2013
0 points


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