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What's everyone fav wire gate 'biners?
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By NYClimber
From New York
Apr 9, 2013
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers Rock, Lake George, NY. Summer 2013.

I am looking to add wire gates to my rack and I have seen SO many brands of them out there now I am not sure who's to go with.

I see BD, Petzl, Omega, Trango, Camp, Metolius just to name a few!

What's everyone's experience been with wire gates and brands?


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By kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Apr 9, 2013
Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks

NYClimber wrote:
I am looking to add wire gates to my rack and I have seen SO many brands of them out there now I am not sure who's to go with. I see BD, Petzl, Omega, Trango, Camp, Metolius just to name a few! What's everyone's experience been with wire gates and brands?


I think the general concensus is that the WC Helium is the best all around wire gate biner. IMHO, anything made by DMM is pretty much amazing. That being said, my rack consists mainly of BD Hotwires (old cold forged version) and Neutrinos due to the price.


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By MJMobes
From The land of steady habits
Apr 9, 2013
modern man

bootied ones


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By NYClimber
From New York
Apr 9, 2013
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers Rock, Lake George, NY. Summer 2013.

OK thanks....the Neutrino's seems to be priced well at my local EMS shop - and I get discounts being I buy a lot of my gear there as well. :)

www.ems.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3659346&lmdn=Gate%20>>>


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By NYClimber
From New York
Apr 9, 2013
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers Rock, Lake George, NY. Summer 2013.

Fall Guy wrote:
bootied ones


: D


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By KathyS
From Poughkeepsie, NY
Apr 9, 2013
Me at the summit of Inner Course (5.4) in the Outlets.  Long, lovely, mellow route.  Well protected even.  My favorite lead from the trip.

kennoyce wrote:
I think the general concensus is that the WC Helium is the best all around wire gate biner. IMHO, anything made by DMM is pretty much amazing. That being said, my rack consists mainly of BD Hotwires (old cold forged version) and Nutrinos due to the price.


+1 for Heliums. Light, big enough to handle easily, even with gloves (ice climbing), wide gate opening and a no-snag nose.


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By Jeremy Riesberg
From Boulder, CO
Apr 9, 2013
Palisaid, SD.

My wire gates consist of hoodwires and neutrinos.


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By NYClimber
From New York
Apr 9, 2013
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers Rock, Lake George, NY. Summer 2013.

KathyS wrote:
+1 for Heliums. Light, big enough to handle easily, even with gloves (ice climbing), wide gate opening and a no-snag nose.


Who sells the Heliums? I can't find anyone selling them thus far!

???


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By Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Apr 9, 2013
Cleo's Needle

Heliums or Nitros.


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By Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 9, 2013
OTL

Heliums on my trad draws - clip great, light & full size, no snag, strong... expensive.

OZs for racking - recently replaced my neutrinos, but if you want cheap neutrinos, I've got a thread selling some... ;)


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By NYClimber
From New York
Apr 9, 2013
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers Rock, Lake George, NY. Summer 2013.

Where's the thread Matt?


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By NYClimber
From New York
Apr 9, 2013
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers Rock, Lake George, NY. Summer 2013.

John Marsella wrote:
+1 for neutrinos (for color coded racking) and heliums (for draws). Also, WC astros are nice; smaller (like neutrino size) but not annoyingly small like the metolius fs minis or the camp nanos. Gearexpress.com has all of the above mentioned styles.


Thanks John.
I ordered sen slings from them before at amazing prices!


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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Apr 9, 2013

IMO, Heliums suck. Seriously overhyped unless you're an ice/alpine climber where the giant size is an asset instead of a detriment.

For everyday rock climbing, heliums are too big for me. Pinch clipping is a PITA. Even the bone std BD Hotwire is very slightly too large for ideal pinch clips...I've still got about 15 of them on the rope end of beater draws.

I prefer the trango superfly for best tradeoff of weight/size/clipability. But it does have drawbacks too, most obvious that there is no hooded nose or really anything at the nose to keep from brushing the gate against the rock and opening. BD hoodwire seems to remedy that issue in a similar size and weight. For me, it's a non-issue, but some people may really want that feature.

Neutrinos are heavier and smaller than superflys, and basically heaveier but the same size as the hoodwire/OZ. Mammut moses have a few too many documented cases of breaking for me to ever use them.

The madrocks are pretty good for a cheapy, but ime will have variations between gate tension from biner to biner. Decent design and price if you're really broke

Camp nano feels too small when trying to remove from gear loops, but surprisingly is easier to clip rope into than you'd probably expect. I have a few for stuff like clipping shoes, water etc to harness.


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By randy88fj62
Apr 9, 2013
Thunderbolt Peak in the Palisades

BD Neutrino: Good size (not too big or small), relatively light, and priced well.

Petzl Ange: My favorite wiregate because the keylock gate doesn't snag. Comes in small and large to fit your needs. Has a better spring / closing force than the BD hoodwires.

Op Five-O: My favorite wiregate for racking nuts. Has a wide mouth opening making it easy to use with gloves.

Those are my key favorites. The rest of my wiregates all fit somewhere in between those specialty three above.


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By KathyS
From Poughkeepsie, NY
Apr 9, 2013
Me at the summit of Inner Course (5.4) in the Outlets.  Long, lovely, mellow route.  Well protected even.  My favorite lead from the trip.

NYClimber wrote:
Who sells the Heliums? I can't find anyone selling them thus far! ???


Heliums


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By mattm
From TX
Apr 9, 2013
Grande Grotto

NYClimber wrote:
I am looking to add wire gates to my rack and I have seen SO many brands of them out there now I am not sure who's to go with. I see BD, Petzl, Omega, Trango, Camp, Metolius just to name a few! What's everyone's experience been with wire gates and brands?


What are you planning on using them for? Racking? General Purpose? Rope Side on a QD?

Fast answer is probably Heliums/Nitros/Spectres/Hotwires


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By John D
Apr 9, 2013

check out madrocks wire gates I'm pretty sure wild country makes them and they're cheap. I love trango classic wire gates, but they're not the lightest


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By bearbreeder
Apr 9, 2013

whatever feels best in your hand and is at the price you want ...

its that simple

fancy $$$$, or cheap budget biners are all good these days ... they wont make you climb any better or worse in general ...


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By ZackB
From Littleton, CO
Apr 9, 2013

I like Neutrinos to rack, or the Oz.

Recently, I have really liked the Yellow Camp Photon Wire carabiners. For some reason, only the yellow ones. Don't like how the others clip.


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By A. Everhart
Apr 9, 2013

+1 for booty... but if you are working too much and climbing too little like I was for far tooooooo long:

The stuff to not buy: Neutrinos and Heliums are heavy and so 2000. The Helium has far to small of a area for the webbing when trippled up. Nanos gate action is way too stiff and the photon is way to big and has way to weak action. Omega, uhhh no. The FS mini has a huge snag'n nose but is great for cams if your color coding... btw don't color code your rack your partners are way too stupid and scared to figure out how to keep the red biner on the red cam, just get silver biners unless your rad enough to put Petzl strings on your cams. Petzl single wire biners are difficult to use w/ tripple up runners cus of the ball at the end of the wire snag'n when clipping a free runner to it but are great for clipping bolts/pins on a quickdraw.
What to buy in my dirthead opinion: Dmm Phantoms! They are available in colors and silver. The Alpha light is so awsome but I have two alpha trads on my draws and the gate action drags in the hooded nose so I'm not sure about the Alpha light's durability and the wacky gate area makes them hog rack space. Edelrid just came out with a 19 gram biner. And finally the BD getto wire biners. If I was doing it all at once for some wack reason like my house burnt down and I had a ton of insurance coin: Color coded Phantoms on my cams, Petzl one wire guy on the bolt end of my quickdraws and Edlerid 19gs on the rope end of my quickdraws and on my runners. That's a lie tho I would just use my partners rack and buy lots of weed


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By Eric and Lucie
From Boulder, CO
Apr 9, 2013

Heliums!
Been using them for everything from cragging to ice climbing to alpine routes etc for many years now, and I wouldn't trade them for anything else.
What's that comment about too small for tripled slings? Works great for me.


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By A. Everhart
Apr 9, 2013

I should have said for the bolt end of quickdraws. I don't like their shape. That is the one thing I really like about BD's hoopty wires is that you can rack w/them and use them with older wider webbing.


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By Mike
From Phoenix
Apr 9, 2013
Doing the jump-across off The Mace.  I never get tired of this climb.  Photo by Wednesday Hugus.

Heliums by a good margin. Second-tier (IMHO) are DMM Alphas & Shields, followed by BD Hoodwire & new Oz.


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By Peter Hurtgen
From Fort Collins, CO
Apr 9, 2013
at the rap from yellow spur

I like the bd oval wire! At least for extended draws


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By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From Phoenix, AZ
Apr 9, 2013
Belay

I'm a big fan of the BD Hoodwires. I have a full set of 'draws out of them now and they're really slick.


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By James Xu
From Flagstaff, Arizona
Apr 10, 2013
Old Man gap highline!

Omega Pacific JCs! They've been discontinued a few years back but are my go-to clipping biners.


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