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Whatchamadigit Crack T,TR 

Whatchamadigit Crack 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b C2

   
Type:  Trad, TR, Aid, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b C2 [details]
FA: FFA: Chad Suchoski ca. 2006 (toprope)
Page Views: 717
Submitted By: W. Spaller on Jan 14, 2009

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Description 

This is the tiny seam that branches to the left from Test Piece.


Protection 

Very small gear and a few hands sized cams for the beginning. Small brass nuts work very well in the seam.



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By W. Spaller
From: Boulder
Mar 14, 2009

Finally got back to finishing this thing on aid and now I must say i agree with my initial rating of C2. Definately bring small brass nuts. Now i need to work on freeing it.

By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Jan 2, 2013

The route is actually called the "Whatchamadigit crack".

I was the one who placed the bolt with gear backup anchor at the top and did the first successful TR back somewhere around 2006 or so. I've tried to lead it on gear, but it's tricky to place adequately so as not to keep bouncing off the wall to the right when you fall. As far as I know it's never had a successful free accent on gear. That would considerably up the game as far as difficulty goes. Careful aiding the crack as well, a fall would certainly send you skipping off the wall of Test Piece.

As it is, the general consensus is that it goes at a solid 5.13a.