Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
East Wall Inner (Exorcist Area)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aero Space 
Antichrist (aka Small Town, Big Girls), The 
Buenos Aires 
Casual 
Cat on a Hot Tin Roof 
Chesire for President 
Doin' Life 
Exorcist 
Hemroidic Terror 
It 
Jaws 
Love Goddess 
Military Industrial Complex 
Nurn's Romp 
Rings Around Uranus 
Search for Klingons 
That 
Thin Air 
Three Bolts Closer To Divorce 
Unknown 
Unknown 2 
Wacko Wall 
What 

What 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 405
Submitted By: George Hayduke on Dec 31, 2007
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: What (5.8), Joshua Tree NP

Description 

The crux of this route is def. the off- width climbing the last 1/4.


Location 

P1) Climb the dogleg crack in the center of the formation up to a wide ledge with a large flake, Gear - 3"
cont.
P2) Ascend offwidth crack (crux) to top out. Gear - 5"

Decent
1)-sling horn to rap. back to ledge, - may be too sketchy for some , otherwise
2) walk off (East) entailing
a) exposed fourth class moves to rappel bolts note: (60 m rope will just reach the ground w/ stretch)/ or cont. east to decent option
b) exposed 4th class boulder hopping move to gain access to the walk off.


Protection 

pro to 5 inches, no bolts, sling horn or walk off.



Comments on What Add Comment
Show which comments
By john durr
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Apr 10, 2009

This route is a couple of cracks right (west) of Exorcist. The first pitch is pretty good, but the second pitch is pretty loose and wide. A #2 and #4 camelot should be sufficient to lead this second pitch safely. A better second pitch is to do is It, a nice 5.9 finger crack starting from the same ledge, two cracks left. The rap off Exorcist is easy and quick.

By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Apr 22, 2009

I agree with John except for the gear reccomendations. I suspect that wider gear than a number 4 could be useful. Don