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East Wall Inner (Exorcist Area)
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YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 405
Submitted By: George Hayduke on Dec 31, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: What (5.8), Joshua Tree NP


The crux of this route is def. the off- width climbing the last 1/4.


P1) Climb the dogleg crack in the center of the formation up to a wide ledge with a large flake, Gear - 3"
P2) Ascend offwidth crack (crux) to top out. Gear - 5"

1)-sling horn to rap. back to ledge, - may be too sketchy for some , otherwise
2) walk off (East) entailing
a) exposed fourth class moves to rappel bolts note: (60 m rope will just reach the ground w/ stretch)/ or cont. east to decent option
b) exposed 4th class boulder hopping move to gain access to the walk off.


pro to 5 inches, no bolts, sling horn or walk off.

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By john durr
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Apr 10, 2009

This route is a couple of cracks right (west) of Exorcist. The first pitch is pretty good, but the second pitch is pretty loose and wide. A #2 and #4 camelot should be sufficient to lead this second pitch safely. A better second pitch is to do is It, a nice 5.9 finger crack starting from the same ledge, two cracks left. The rap off Exorcist is easy and quick.

By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Apr 22, 2009

I agree with John except for the gear reccomendations. I suspect that wider gear than a number 4 could be useful. Don