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What would you do?

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Vicho · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2011 · Points: 0

If you had 4 months to train for 2 solid months of sport climbing, how would you train?

I am not going to be able to climb from December-March and have all of October and November to climb.

The area I climb the most is Jailhouse , and so far in the past two seasons I have been climbing there I have redpointed multiple .12d's.

I have a few .13a/b's in the que that are all worked out, I just need some fitness to send them. I plan on sending these and some new projects in the coming fall.

What approach would you take?

JPVallone · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 195

Lots of stretching!

stretching

Ty Harlacker · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 231

Tongue punch stink box

Shane Neal · · Colorado Springs, CO. · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 265

Look into some of Eric Horsts climbing training guides.... That will help get you to the next level for sure.

Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245

Personally I think most of the info in Horst's books is out dated when compared to books by Dan Hague and Dave McLeod. Also check out Neil Gresham's new column in R&I.

That said, Horst give you some exercises you can do away from the climbing gym, while the other books focus specifically on training through climbing.

Tons of info out there. I assume you're going to have a gym at your disposal for those 4 months? Read a lot, train even more.

Marathon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 275

Colon Cleansing a mustache and a chisel

Vicho · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2011 · Points: 0

Alright alright...

I put together a 4 month periodization plan..since I am only trying to peak for ~4 weeks...

However, I want to make sure that I work in some straight up stamina training (CIR per Self Coached Climber...)

Are these best done at the beginning during my ARC phase or at the end with PE?

Thanks for the couple of good responses.

Brendan N · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 405

If you are still at the 12d level for the 30 meter routes at Jailhouse then you probably don't need an ARC phase. I would do 3 five-week phases (strength->recruitment->anaerobic) and work the CIR into the anaerobic phase.

camhead · · Vandalia, Appalachia · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,240

in addition to training, consider if you can lose some weight. Even 5-10 lbs below your "normal" weight, combined with a training regimen, really helps. At least it did for me this season.

Brendan N · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 405

good point camhead

good book here

Vicho · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2011 · Points: 0
grayhghost wrote:If you are still at the 12d level for the 30 meter routes at Jailhouse then you probably don't need an ARC phase. I would do 3 five-week phases (strength->recruitment->anaerobic) and work the CIR into the anaerobic phase.
This is super helpful...thanks man. Do you take a rest week between each five week phase?

I was thinking of doing one long phase peaking right in november, but a few shorter phases might work out better, and I could probably train harder anyways...

If you are familiar with the crag, my big goals for the season are The Governor and the Fugitive Extension...
Brendan N · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 405

No resting between phases.

Mike Anderson's Training Plan is probably the best guide on the internetz.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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