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Industrial Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Belly Up T 
Belly Up Variation T 
Blow Chow T 
Darker is Better T 
Fast Boat to China T 
Flight 67 to Stockholm S 
Forgotten Names S 
Heidi Hi T 
Industrial Disease aka Dead Moonies Don't Sell Flowers S,TR 
John Roskelly Show or Polyvinyl Chloride, The T 
Left-Hand Monkey Wrench T,TR 
Nipple Phyle T 
Noodle Factory T 
Politicians, Priests, and Body Bags T,S 
Salad Bar once known as "The John Roskelly Show" T,S,TR 
Scarlett's Pulse T 
Take Flight S 
Thunderbird aka Light Beer T 
Unknown 5.8 AKA Top Rope Face One T,TR 
What Would Jesus Bolt S 

What Would Jesus Bolt 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: ??, 2000s
Page Views: 755
Submitted By: Leo Paik on May 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Topo addendum on photo already attached to route. ...

Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is an entry for the route snuck in between Politicians, Priests, and Body Bags and Fast Boat to China. It is a bolted line which can be supplemented with a #1 Camalot to start and possibly a #0.5 or 0.75 Camalot up near the top. It is a bit squeezed. Anyone know the name or FA?

You can hand jam briefly to get off the ground to the right or face climb (harder) to the left of the 1st bolt. Clip, yard, big ledge. Clip. Delicately slither up the face or stem right in the finger crack briefly. Move up higher, clip. From here, you can try to bear hug the sucker or move left into a crack system or chicken off onto PPBB's crux face moves. Clip again, and the face eases up considerably. Join the top of Fast Boat to China and top out.

If you wander right and left of the bolts, you can make it 5.10, cluck, cluck, cluck. This is the apparent rating the the 2008 guidebook.

Location 

This route is in between Politicians, Priests, and Body Bags and Fast Boat to China. It is left of the John Roskelley Show and right of Heidi Hi.

Protection 

5-6 bolts, optional #1 Camalot to start, sorta unneeded but optional #0.5 or #0.75 Camalot near the top. 2 closely spaced anchor bolts.


Photos of What Would Jesus Bolt Slideshow Add Photo
Pulling through the crux, WWJB.
Pulling through the crux, WWJB.

Comments on What Would Jesus Bolt Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 26, 2011
By jhump
Dec 21, 2005

What is the squeeze job bolt line between PPBB and Fast Boat to China? It isn't in the guidebook or on this site. The hangers are cleverly unpainted for maximum "dig my route" value. Never more than a few feet from a solid crack line on either side. Takes away from both of the [decent] climbs that it crowds. Back East this would have been chopped before the last bolt was placed.
By Randy Carmichael
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 23, 2005

If this new line takes anything away from PPBB, I'll be extremely bummed.
By David Houston
From: Boulder, Colorado
Apr 22, 2007

Climbed that "squeeze job" today. Perhaps we should post the route separately under that name and move this discussion there! The first move off the ground is a really fun boulder problem style move. Being a chicken I would recommend a stick clip for the first bolt. The route is extremely contrived which makes it very difficult to rate. I was not able to do it without occasionally resorting to holds used by the routes on either side. I don't think it detracts from PP&BB though. Not a route I would do again or recommend despite the fun move off the ground...I think this would have been better left as a top-rope variation.
By richard berk
From: Denver, CO
Jan 22, 2008

It's been a while but as I remember.... We put up a route to the right of PPBB called "Salad Bar" about the same time as we put up PPBB. It started left, angling right (the crux), and then straight up to the PPBB hangers. I think it had one bolt protecting the move to the right and then 2 more higher up.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jan 23, 2008

By my recollection, this route was put in long (years) after PPBB was put in. It still is probably Salad Bar. BTW, what did you rate it?
By richard berk
From: Denver, CO
Jan 23, 2008

As I recall, easy 10.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jan 23, 2008

Hmmm. Could Salad Bar be Salad Bar once known as "The John Roskelly Show" or did the climbing line wind up dancing around the bolt line quite a bit? Salad Bar once known as "The John Roskelly Show" went in around the time of PPBB as I recall.
By richard berk
From: Denver, CO
Jan 24, 2008

Leo, you are right. The John Roskelly Show (as labeled on pic) is what we called Salad Bar. The route labeled "I" PVC is what we called The John Roskelly Show (a kind of uninteresting offwidth in a corner).

Flight 67 was originally called "Flight 67 to Stockholm" and Industrial Disease was called "Dead Moonies Don't Sell Flowers" though we never led the route.

Were you climbing there back then? With your brother?
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jan 24, 2008

Richard, thanks for the clarifications. It is interesting how names "change" or evolve over time. I think I went up there around the time of R&I article, but my brother mostly climbed ice back in CO then.
By Not So Famous Old Dude
From: Denver, CO
Nov 17, 2008
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

I did this by staying in the middle of the arete until the feet disappeared, then I moved left into the crack just as PPBB is veering off to the left. Jammed a few moves there then did a difficult move or two diagonally, then straight up from there to the anchors. If that was the intent of the line, then it's an okay route and actually has some very nice finger and thin hands moves combined with some devious face moves at crux. The way I did it, doesn't overlap PPBB.
By Ralph Kolva
From: Evergreen, CO
Jan 18, 2009

Jason Haas and Ben Schneider in their new guide call this climb "W.W.J.B. (What Would Jesus Bolt)" and rate it rate it 10c.
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Feb 12, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I got on this route yesterday not knowing what it was, as I do with every route at Table. It seemed like a more direct line staying on the prow. I thought that this had to of been the original route and that the left route was the squeeze job. I guess everyone has a different eye.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Oct 26, 2011

The rock under the right anchor bolt seemed cracked. Anyone think this should be replaced?