Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Zappa's Tooth
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Central Scrutinizer T 
Dirty Love T 
Flakes T 
Sheik Yerbouti T 
Spinach is my New Lettuce T 
Titties & Beer T 
Trouble Every Day T 
What Would Frank Do? T 

What Would Frank Do? 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 175'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: George Bracksieck and Ryan Watts
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 91
Submitted By: George Bracksieck on Jul 8, 2013

You & This Route
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

To the left of Dirty Love is a distinct crack/chimney system. It looks dirtier than love. What would Frank do?

I started up the short crack to the left of DL. A short ways up, I stepped left, around an elaborate stack of blocks that resembles a small sculpture. Then I placed pro, angled a little to the right, then moved straight up. Loose holds and blocks were encountered throughout. Would Frank trundle, or leave those for the next party to enjoy? We chose to leave everything where we found it.

The crux was passing the short chimney visible in the top-left of the posted DL route photo, without using the obvious holds, which were loose, and while running the rope away from the rubble at the top of chimney. A belay anchor was made by placing a long loop of rope around the biggest block on the summit ridge, up a low-angle slab, to climber's right.


Location 

Start in a crack about six feet left of the low crack along which the DL route line is drawn in the DL route photo.


Protection 

I placed two #4 and one #5 C4s, along with some standard rack.



Comments on What Would Frank Do? Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -