What Would Frank Do?
You & This Route
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To the left of Dirty Love
is a distinct crack/chimney system. It looks dirtier than love. What would Frank do?
I started up the short crack to the left of DL
. A short ways up, I stepped left, around an elaborate stack of blocks that resembles a small sculpture. Then I placed pro, angled a little to the right, then moved straight up. Loose holds and blocks were encountered throughout. Would Frank trundle, or leave those for the next party to enjoy? We chose to leave everything where we found it.
The crux was passing the short chimney visible in the top-left of the posted DL route photo, without using the obvious holds, which were loose, and while running the rope away from the rubble at the top of chimney. A belay anchor was made by placing a long loop of rope around the biggest block on the summit ridge, up a low-angle slab, to climber's right.
Start in a crack about six feet left of the low crack along which the DL
route line is drawn in the DL
I placed two #4 and one #5 C4s, along with some standard rack.