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What was the first pair of climbing shoes you ever owned?
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Nov 3, 2008
Drill case.
Boreal Ballets, ca. 1990. Those were good shoes. Dave West
From Roanoke, VA
Joined Dec 23, 2007
63 points
Nov 3, 2008
Bouldering at right side of Sun Deck
YDPL8S
From Santa Monica, Ca.
Joined Aug 7, 2003
933 points
Nov 3, 2008
Slick Rock put in
old shoes
old shoes
Allen Hill
From FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Joined Jun 12, 2004
1,803 points
Nov 3, 2008
Splitter Jams on the Israel/Palestine Security Wal...
Adidas wrestling shoes. 1977. Then EB's purchased from the old Holubar in Costa Mesa, California. Shawn Mitchell
From Broomfield
Joined Mar 4, 2008
313 points
Nov 3, 2008
My first lead climb
I started with Scarpa Thunders (a whole 5 months ago :)) Then I got a pair of painfully small Magos. Erin Cook
From Tucson AZ
Joined Aug 2, 2008
49 points
Nov 3, 2008
Royal Robbins Boots, about 1970. They didn't perform too well IMHO. Those are them right there on scott mossman's post!! I think. Jim Gloeckler
From Denver, Colo.
Joined Jul 7, 2004
47 points
Nov 4, 2008
Top of Jah-Man Sister Superior
What a fun forum...I climbed on La Sportiva Mariachers (purple with a yellow crescent. Second pair of shoes were the black aces with neon graphics. Loved them both. Does anyone even make a shoe like the ace anymore? Sunny-D
From SLC, Utah
Joined Aug 2, 2006
460 points
Nov 5, 2008
Bouldering at right side of Sun Deck
Yes Jim, those are the infamous "edging" RR's (only thing they were good for). As you can see, they had just been resoled (by the famous Steve Komito), circa 1976. The main thing I liked about them was that they were so stiff around the front of the foot that you could climb killer jam cracks all day and your feet never hurt or got cramps in them. But, jump on a friction slab route and you were burnin' rubber. YDPL8S
From Santa Monica, Ca.
Joined Aug 7, 2003
933 points
Nov 17, 2008
Somewhere in Tuolumne, sometime early 80's
Although these were the first I owned:



I didn't use them much until after a few years when I started doing aid.
I wore burned out/well broken in Adidas 'town and country' (or the like) sneakers until I got to where I was climbing regularly. My first friction sole shoes were the original RR Friction. The ones with red canvas uppers:




After that I filled at least one milk crate with fried EB's
trundlebum
From Las Vegas NV
Joined Aug 18, 2007
112 points
Administrator
Nov 17, 2008
Starting the second section of Live to climb anoth...
Boreal Aces- Blue & Red. Brad "Stonyman" Killough
From Alabama
Joined Jan 18, 2008
5,967 points
Nov 20, 2008
Blue high top Kaukulators Lon Black
Joined Jun 25, 2002
172 points
Nov 20, 2008
Bouldering at Ravenheugh.  Simply glorious.  Alist...
EBs. 1978 or so

Then Fires, then Asolos (the best shoe ever), then Sportivas, then ....
Leo Hski
Joined Nov 13, 2006
363 points
Nov 24, 2008
Crack Test Dummies EPC
Patty wrote:
These were my first pair of climbing shoes (boreal Diablo). I still have them too, but now they are a little dusty since I got my mythos. : > )


I had the Diablos, lost 'em, but wish I had them now, I think they'd be great for some cracks. I remember them being pretty comfy.
Richard Fernandez
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Nov 23, 2008
801 points
Nov 24, 2008
la sportiva cobras Arnold Braker
From golden, co
Joined Jun 28, 2007
289 points
Administrator
Nov 24, 2008
Technosurfing, Rumney. Photo by Seth Hamel.
La Sportiva Enduros-- big enough to wear with wool socks.

My second pair were the Boreal Vectors--black w/purple laces. I had a few pairs. I loved those shoes.
Jay Knower
From Campton, NH
Joined Jul 1, 2001
6,047 points
Nov 24, 2008
La Sportiva Enduros... horrible board lasted high tops in red with yellow laces. Probably a great offwidth shoe. TBlom
Joined Jun 29, 2004
345 points
Administrator
Nov 24, 2008
Technosurfing, Rumney. Photo by Seth Hamel.
Tevis Blom wrote:
La Sportiva Enduros... horrible board lasted high tops in red with yellow laces. Probably a great offwidth shoe.


You thought they were horrible? Sure they couldn't smear at all, but they lasted forever and jammed really well. Maybe I just have a soft spot in my heart for those clunkers.
Jay Knower
From Campton, NH
Joined Jul 1, 2001
6,047 points
Dec 26, 2012
Cold day at Smug's
Thought I'd bump this old thread...I'm trying to figure out what my first pair of climbing shoes were. I got them on a trip to Eldorado with my brother and cousin sometime in the mid? 80's. They were black and yellow (or gold maybe) and had two set of laces, a black lace and a yellow lace. One of the laces went around the heel and they were high tops. I think they had some climber's name as the model...maybe Kauk or somebody like that? Probably one of the first models soon after Fires?

Anyone have any idea what these were?
csproul
From Davis, CA
Joined Dec 3, 2009
214 points
Dec 26, 2012
rockerwaves
They worked
They worked
Olaf Mitchell
From Paia, Maui, Hi,
Joined Mar 16, 2007
4,261 points
Dec 26, 2012
Me on the summit of Devil's Tower
RR's 1971. Used them at the Gunks, did lots of great climbing in them. Eastvillage
From New York, NY
Joined Mar 19, 2006
93 points
Dec 26, 2012
gossamer
+1 for Boreal Diablos...I still wear mine for gym climbing and they are holding strong. Jon Marek
From Fall City, WA
Joined Sep 30, 2009
2,605 points
Dec 26, 2012
AJS wrote:
.ahem...more experienced climbers who are posting here what have been the biggest, best changes to shoes over time. -Adam


Adam, 4 years latter I didn't see a reply to your question. Not that I am super experienced but I started climbing around the time, mid 80's, when shoes became anatomically correct.

I rented and borrowed a couple of pairs of the older asymmetrically toed shoes, the first pair I bought were anatomically correct Fire Cats.



Tim McCabe
Joined Oct 15, 2006
156 points
Dec 26, 2012
Stabby
csproul wrote:
Thought I'd bump this old thread...I'm trying to figure out what my first pair of climbing shoes were. I got them on a trip to Eldorado with my brother and cousin sometime in the mid? 80's. They were black and yellow (or gold maybe) and had two set of laces, a black lace and a yellow lace. One of the laces went around the heel and they were high tops. I think they had some climber's name as the model...maybe Kauk or somebody like that? Probably one of the first models soon after Fires? Anyone have any idea what these were?

I think you have some models confused with each other. The only 2 lace shoe I can remember was the Merrell flashdance's, go look at page one.
Mike Lane
From Centennial, CO
Joined Jan 21, 2006
839 points
Dec 26, 2012
Cold day at Smug's
Mike Lane wrote:
I think you have some models confused with each other. The only 2 lace shoe I can remember was the Merrell flashdance's, go look at page one.

Indeed, they looked a lot like the Merrels but they were black and yellow.

BTW, in your post with the 4 pairs of shoes, I also ended up with a pair of the 2nd pair (L->R) of the pink and blue high-tops. What were those?
csproul
From Davis, CA
Joined Dec 3, 2009
214 points
Dec 26, 2012
Hanweg Friction boots circa 1971. Then PAs, EBs, Brand X EBs...then finally Fires... James Crump
Joined Dec 17, 2008
200 points


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