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What was the first pair of climbing shoes you ever owned?
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By Evan1984
Oct 24, 2008
a pair of teal anasazi slippers 2 sizes too small(read 4 sizes smaller than street shoes). I was stupid, found a killer deal, and thought I'd need something that high performance. They went to the gym a handful of times before the pain almost made me give up climbing.

Then I bought a pair of mythos and never looked back.

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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Oct 24, 2008
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.
5.10 had a shoe called the Spire that was green. That was what I rented before I got my first pair in the same model. It was a straight shoe and pretty comfortable. I got some Boreal Stingers after that, but they killed my feet. So I got some Mocasyms and have climbed on that ever since pretty much.

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By erik wellborn
From manitou springs
Oct 24, 2008
Top of Bridalveil, feelin good
Sportiva Mariachers in 88. We were learning to climb at Garbage of the Gods in our sneakers. I was the first of our group to purchase actual rock shoes. I then led Finger Traverse with no falls. I felt sooo badass at the time. Been downhill ever since.

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By jack roberts
Oct 24, 2008
kronhoffers. Really just a pair of thin, split leather hiking shoes with special lugged soles on them. We'd get them 3-4 sizes too small and soak them in hot water and walk around in them for days, until they shrink-wrapped around our feet. Made them edge REALLY well.

But if it was good enough for RR and Bob Kamps, well, who were we to argue?

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By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Oct 24, 2008
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.
Peter Franzen wrote:
I think I still have mine around somewhere... They were a pair of board-lasted LaSportiva lace-ups. Dark blue with yellow laces, c.a. 1996.


Kaukulators, generation 1. Gen 2 were brown.

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By KevinCO
From Loveland, CO
Oct 25, 2008
Chouinards (shoenards)...so stiff you could just about strap crampons on. Definitely honed my footwork, especially before I had them resoled in sticky rubber.

A side note on this subject: I was introducing a friend to climbing who was starting out in running shoes. After hauling him up a route, I convinced him to buy a pair of Fires. The next climb we picked out of Roaches guide started with a lichen covered slab (My friend wanted long mountaineering type routes since he was in the middle of climbing all of the 14ers). It rained the night before. I had to solo it (no pro) and aimed for the small spots of red sandstone between slippery wet lichen.

After telling my friend that new shoes would turn him into Spiderman, again I had to haul him up a route because of the slippery lichen. He had to wait for another outing to experience what I was talking about.

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By Patty
From Reno
Oct 25, 2008
Trying to hang on this big rock coming down the back side of Sanitas.
These were my first pair of climbing shoes (boreal Diablo). I still have them too, but now they are a little dusty since I got my mythos. : >


Another shot of my shoes!; >
Another shot of my shoes!; >
)

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By Lee Smith
Oct 25, 2008
You can love your rope but you can't "LOVE" your rope! <br />(Back by Popular Demand.  There you are Mom) <br /> <br />
Raichle Reds, big Norwegian welt mountaineering boots. Smeared like you were on greasy hamburger and edged like Crocs.

Then I got EBs. In my second climbing life (I quit for years) my first sticky pair were Kaukulators. Loved them.

EDIT: Hi Patty! I realized that I am under your feet (again).

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By Ed Wright
Oct 25, 2008
Magic Ed
My first shoes were the Krohnhoffer kletter shoes which were the only ones available in Boulder at the time (1967). Then I got a pair of RD's which I had to order from an importer in New York. They cost 15 dollars plus 2 bucks for shipping!

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By Brad "Stonyman" Killough
Administrator
From Alabama
Oct 25, 2008
Starting the second section of Live to climb another day
Moccasyms

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By chossmonkey
Oct 31, 2008
Lime green 5.10 Summits.

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By Dave Miller
From Boulder
Oct 31, 2008
A pair of High-Top Merriel Smears

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By Tyler Bowser
From Red River
Oct 31, 2008
Kamet Joshua Tree around 1991 or so.

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By J. Fox
From Black Hawk, CO
Oct 31, 2008
Me too!
Powder-puff blue 5.10 Spires.

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By Chris M.
Oct 31, 2008
A pair of La Sportiva Cliff's and climbed in them until my big toe poked through. While I am not an old timer I still hold that first pair in high regard mostly for getting me hooked on the dark side.

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By pfwein
Oct 31, 2008
5.10 summits I think they were called, aboout '92. I didn't think they were high enough performance for me at the time after I bought them; yeah, right.

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By Eastvillage
From New York, NY
Nov 1, 2008
Me on the summit of Devil's Tower
Royal Robbins. The famous blue suede shoes. They worked well at the gunks, with lots of edging.

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By bsmoot
Nov 1, 2008
Me in the 70's
PA's back in 1975. A year or two later I upgraded to EB's

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By Jeff Bevan
Nov 1, 2008
Like Jack Roberts mine was a pair of Krohoffer's back in 1967. My dad found them in my car at the time, I was a sophmore in high school and took them and threw them away. My parents had strictly forbid me from climbing. Needless to say it didn't stop me though I was quite a bit more careful in how I hid my gear. I don't remember what my second pair was but soon I was climbing in a pair of RR's.

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By Brian in SLC
Nov 2, 2008
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
EB's. Bought Fires when they came out, as soon as they were available in Bozeman (No. Lights). Bumped up a grade especially on friction overnight. Still have the EBs, but, sold the Fires, but, I do have my first pair of Fire Cats, I think. Sold my Scarpa Superatz (sp?) which were another early pair of shoes I owned too.

Actually started in Kastinger leather boots on ice and running shoes on rock, but, thankfully acquired an ice climbing partner's rock shoes soon thereafter ('83 or so).

-Brian in SLC

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By marc rosenthal
From San Antonio, TX
Nov 2, 2008
The artist at China Ranch, Nevada
Thank you East Village. I was beginning to wonder if I was the oldest climber in the forum. Definitely the Robbins Blue Birds, I believe they were called. Great on granite Gunks for you, Enchanted Rock, TX for me!

I would have kept wearing them for years but then the cat decided to mark them. There was no getting the smell out. Upgraded to EBs.

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By mcarizona
From Flag
Nov 2, 2008
5.10 verticles..Used them for at least 3 resoles till I bought the Asolo runnouts. Not old, classic.

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By Hardluck
Nov 2, 2008
5.10 Lynx lace-ups; comfy unlined shoes with a fiber insole you could use to stiffen them up (a little, tiny bit). Loved these shoes and never forgot the lesson they taught me---don't try to resole your own friggin' shoes!

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By Tea
Nov 2, 2008
just Jong it!
The green 5.10 Summits. Wore em out on the buildering circuit on campus, late night, after my janitor job. Then I got some of the lucky charm Aces...whoa momma! I was hooked.

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By TomJensen
From Fort Collins
Nov 3, 2008
Following a pitch on Good Evans.  Photo by Kevin Gillest
Boreal ACES with the cool neon green graphics. 1992

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