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What trad climbs will be dry this weekend in NH, NY, or VT?

Original Post
Trevor Burke · · SF Bay Area · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 5

Trying to find somewhere to climb some moderate trad in NH, NY, or VT...but it's supposed to be rainy almost all weekend. Might be some rain-free days on Saturday...

Any ideas of places that might be dry??

brianszero · · Rogers, Ky · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 21

Most routes will be dry at the gunks after a dry day. You may have a couple of wet spots but they are usually avoidable.

Tom Sherman · · Austin, TX · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 433

I'm willing to admit that I may be a moron/ incapable of reading a forecast, but I've been checking all week and looks like its going to clear up perfectly for Saturday and sunday. so in North Conway partly cloudy almost no chance of rain and ~8degrees warmer on Saturday, looks beautiful. I use weather.com, am I missing something?

Chris Duca · · Dixfield, ME · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 2,330

Sundown Ledge over on the Kanc in NH.

Tom Sherman · · Austin, TX · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 433

NOOOOOOO, don't crowd mah spot bro.... yeah that's where im headed Saturday

BritishDan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 0

Was thinking of climbing Rogers Rock or Whitehorse/Cathedral this weekend. Dry in the daytime but wet overnight is the current forecast, do they dry up quickly?

Kevin Heckeler · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,616

Gunks got less rain than most places today. Very little rain expected between now (Thursday 4PM) and Saturday. I'd bet the Gunks will be mostly dry.

Weather this weekend looks fine for climbing, and the rain chances overnight Saturday and slight drop in temps Sunday indicate a weak cold front, so unlikely it will rain enough Saturday night (if at all) to ruin Sunday.

Rogers Rock dries quick if there's wind and/or sun. Just like anyplace else. There's a few lines with some seep, so might need to save those for later in the day. I would look at the wall from the boat before pulling ashore and pick the driest looking stuff to get started on.

This seems like real common sense stuff. Does anyone really need me explaining this to them?

BritishDan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 0
Kevin Heckeler wrote:Rogers Rock dries quick if there's wind and/or sun. Just like anyplace else. There's a few lines with some seep, so might need to save those for later in the day. I would look at the wall from the boat before pulling ashore and pick the driest looking stuff to get started on. This seems like real common sense stuff. Does anyone really need me explaining this to them?
Never been on Granite, plenty of places I've climbed at back home take several days to dry after rain or the conditions can be unpleasant and greasy if not wet so forgive me for not knowing all the conditions in a completely different part of the world. Especially places with a lot of vegetation.
Kevin Heckeler · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,616
BritishDan wrote: Never been on Granite, plenty of places I've climbed at back home take several days to dry after rain or the conditions can be unpleasant and greasy if not wet so forgive me for not knowing all the conditions in a completely different part of the world. Especially places with a lot of vegetation.
It's a huge, wide open slab cliff. You might want to check MP before you head out and get familiar then:

mountainproject.com/v/roger…

J. Serpico · · Saratoga County, NY · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 140

I'll be in the Gunks Friday and Saturday. Forecast is beautiful.

60s and either partly sunny or sunny.

General rule for the gunks blue skies you can climb into the upper mid 40s very comfortably, low 40s if you enjoy cold rock climbing. No sun, 50 is my cutoff.

As far as rain. Cliffs dry out quickly if there is even a slight breeze and partial sun. On warm days you can often be back on completely dry rock an hour after the sun comes out.

As far as I know, there really isn't granite rock climbing in NY unless gneiss, anorthosite and sandstone are considered granite. (and I hope I spelled at least one of those correctly).

BritishDan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 0
Kevin Heckeler wrote: It's a huge, wide open slab cliff. You might want to check MP before you head out and get familiar then: mountainproject.com/v/roger…
Already did thanks, also mentioned Cathedral, which is where we are going (although that picture makes me want to get a roof rack for the canoe and head there) and is not such a big open slab. Plenty of cliffs get covered in moss/algae after rain and aren't great to climb on. Whitehorse is a big open slab but some of the route descriptions on here mention vegetation on the route. Anyway thanks for the advice and enjoy your climbing.
Kevin Heckeler · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,616
BritishDan wrote:Plenty of cliffs get covered in moss/algae after rain and aren't great to climb on.
Don't know about across the pond, but algae and moss take more than a few days to form around here.

Same advice about looking at the cliff before heading up a climb applies to Cathedral.

Heading east and/or north this weekend increases your odds of experiencing wet rock. Rained a lot more east and north the last few days.

There's also this if you're looking at ADK slab...

mountainproject.com/v/sugar…

[this cliff was only recently open to the public, so the routes are getting cleaned from regular climber's traffic now and supposedly aren't as dirty as Gunkiemike might have remembered them... where Roger's Rock is mostly PG safety, these are bolted more runout and closer to R safety]
beensandbagged · · smallest state · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 0

Sugarloaf is still plenty dirty at the bottom (1st pitch) as advertised, the premier 10 Sole fusion (left end) is clean and level at the base but go past that and it is a different world. It is my guess lots of people go there, do Sole Fusion, and leave never checking out other climbs. Which suits me fine this is a great crag (I went there and got spanked) and it will be a shame, granted more pleasant, when it gets "developed." It would be my guess that this cliff will be seeping this weekend.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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