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what results to expect after 4-3-2-1 cycle
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By mike526
From schaumburg
Jan 13, 2012

Currently I am in my last week of training before my rest week and was curious as to what kind of result others have seen after their first time of doing a 4-3-2-1 plan.
I started the program climbing around 10b/10c and bouldering around v2-v3 depending on the route or problem set in the gym. My goal was to finally climb my first 11 and so far that has not happened. I have however been working on 2 5.11b's and feeling that i am capable of doing these climbs even though i have been getting shut down on them and not getting them clean Its a big confidence booster knowing that I can do these moves its now just doing the whole climb clean.
I also noticed a slight increase in finger strength keeping track of my hangboard sessions on the metolius simulator. When i started the small edge was impossible to hang from and I can now do that for maybe 3 seconds for about 5 reps and the large two finger pocket is now possible for me which wasn't beforebeing to the point of adding some weight on this hold The round sloper seems dependent on the day sometimes i can hang on it no problem and other hardly at all. Lastly the flat sloper I just cant seem to hang from it what so ever.
I did not feel that i improved much bouldering wise however still stuck around the v3 level depending on the problem seems more verticle problems come easier for me(not sure if all the devils lake climbing has something to do with this).

Sorry to be long winded, just wondering if these kinda results are normal or if i should have seen a way bigger improvement, I feel i put my time in and was hoping for slightly better results.


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By JohnWesely
From Red River Gorge
Jan 13, 2012
Gunking

At your level, it really sounds like you have benefited for putting more time into getting a lot of volume in than doing any sport specific training.


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By mike526
From schaumburg
Jan 13, 2012

Oh I fully agree that adding more volume of just climbing routes, and trying to push myself on stuff that is out of my comfort zone has helped me a lot. I know better than to chase numbers but i really want to climb my first 5.11 it feels so close i can taste it.


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By Mike Anderson
From Dayton, OH
Jan 13, 2012

I seem to recall just about everyone advising you to avoid this type of non-climbing training and instead do activities that will help you develop technique. If a person were unable to ride a bike, would you expect them to figure it out by doing squats?

It's still too early to say if your training has helped you improve, but I am not surprised that you have not made tangible gains yet. Even when you train perfectly there are a dozen reasons you might not make gains on the rock. Then again, a beginner could do everything wrong and still make gains simply as a result of gaining experience and increased volume. The real failure would be to incorrectly attribute those gains to the poor training.


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By mike526
From schaumburg
Jan 13, 2012

I know i was told not to do the hangboard stuff, but i guess with probably poor thinking thought well if i cant get to the gym i might as well do something. I agree that i would best benefit from climbing lots of routes of all different kinds, and bouldering I just find it hard to stay focused when at the gym just hopping on different climbs with no structure to it.

Mike Are you suggesting i cut out the hangboarding, and just focus on nothing more than climbing and focusing on technique with some bouldering thrown in to the mix every now and then.

I've gotten lots of great advice just want a plan to follow so it has structure to go towards my goal.


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By JohnWesely
From Red River Gorge
Jan 13, 2012
Gunking

mike526 wrote:
I know i was told not to do the hangboard stuff, but i guess with probably poor thinking thought well if i cant get to the gym i might as well do something. I agree that i would best benefit from climbing lots of routes of all different kinds, and bouldering I just find it hard to stay focused when at the gym just hopping on different climbs with no structure to it. Mike Are you suggesting i cut out the hangboarding, and just focus on nothing more than climbing and focusing on technique with some bouldering thrown in to the mix every now and then. I've gotten lots of great advice just want a plan to follow so it has structure to go towards my goal.


You should probably do more than a little boring. It is the easiest way to get the most vertical feet unless you have a pretty dedicated belay slave.


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By mike526
From schaumburg
Jan 14, 2012

I'm assuming this mean't to say more bouldering not boring?


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By Mike Anderson
From Dayton, OH
Jan 14, 2012

mike526 wrote:
Mike Are you suggesting i cut out the hangboarding, and just focus on nothing more than climbing and focusing on technique with some bouldering thrown in to the mix every now and then. I've gotten lots of great advice just want a plan to follow so it has structure to go towards my goal.


Here are two threads in which I made my suggestions, which are appropriate for a climber at your level:

www.mountainproject.com/v/pyramid-plan-in-how-to-climb-512/1>>>

www.mountainproject.com/v/strength-and-power/107408141

There is no silver bullet our quick fix. Climbing is a sport of diligence and patience.


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By mike526
From schaumburg
Jan 14, 2012

Thanks Mike I am going to take what you said and put it into use. thinking about everything i did I saw the most gains from the month long part of just climbing lots of routes focusing on technique.

again thank you.


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