.

Practice catches regularly. Granted this is entirely dependent on the leader giving the belayer opportunities. Safe falls such as at the gym are a great place for the belayer to rack up a lot of catches. Try experimenting with not looking at the leader (to simulate catching a fall beyond line-of-sight). Practice catching falls over roofs, falls near the ground, and falls when you least expect them.

Giving dynamic belays. Use all that belay practice to learn how to let the rope run a little at the right time to soften the catch. Don't use the lazy method of just leaving a bunch of slack in the rope.

5 Pays attention to having the right belay-device rig for the size of the rope (gloves are part of that picture).

In the context of outside the gym ...

Knowing and being practiced in what to do if things go wrong

The point brought up about being proven to make catches repeatedly and keeping practiced at it is absolutely crucial

I dont care how good you think you are ... If you dont constantly practice the most important part of belaying, catching falls ... Its all theory and posturing

You also need to recognize that theres a huge difference between overhanging sport belays and moderate ledgy trad belays

;)

I don't have belayers, I have climbing partners.

Along Danny's note, doesn't have anything to do with belaying but at least a solid base in self rescue makes all the difference in the world as to who is a safe and capable partner and who is not. I think it's something that goes out the window a lot now a days with so many people learning in gyms, than sport climbing, than gear, usually self rescue is learned very late in the equation.

Not required, but I always feel better about someone who is confident to belay "with their eyes closed."
-Mackley

D.Buffum wrote:Maybe this goes without saying, but before all of the things mentioned above is the importance of being attentive. It doesn't matter how much you communicate, how well you anticipate, how mobile you are, if you're not paying close attention, you're a dangerous belayer.

A big +1 for paying attention. Check out the (cheesy) link!

http://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=1906

Thanks for sharing BrassMonkey. Us noobs need more honest attempts at education.

We use the word LEG to let the lead know the rope is laying over their calf...

What do you use?

Boobs

What makes a great belayer?

A weight-lifting physicist with all the best stuff!

"If you are not belaying, you are just climbing!"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XSL1IAV_xrQ

How about being an active belayer? Too many climbers thing they're a great belayer if they can give a decent catch and don't short rope you. While these two things are important, I will say there's nothing more aggravating than when you need your partner to take and you sink 2 ft.

Learn how to take in rope and how to bump someone up. Learn how to quickly release tension from the rope when they climber starts climbing again. Be responsive to the climber.

beccs wrote:How about being an active belayer? Too many climbers thing they're a great belayer if they can give a decent catch and don't short rope you. While these two things are important, I will say there's nothing more aggravating than when you need your partner to take and you sink 2 ft. Learn how to take in rope and how to bump someone up. Learn how to quickly release tension from the rope when they climber starts climbing again. Be responsive to the climber.

I don't need the tight TAKE....

sinking down a few feet, just puts you onto holds that you reached by fair means.

Sounds like you need the belayer to also be the WINCH for making upward progress.

Ill take, Good catches, nice clips and great lowering skills anyday.

Guy Keesee wrote: I don't need the tight TAKE.... sinking down a few feet, just puts you onto holds that you reached by fair means. Sounds like you need the belayer to also be the WINCH for making upward progress. Ill take, Good catches, nice clips and great lowering skills anyday.

When working steep overhangs having a belayer that can help boink you up the rope to the last clip you fell off is a crucial skill

A climber that falls 25m up on a beal rope will fall 8+ feet from rope stretch alone and very likely another few feet of slack .... And thats if they are right ar the bolt

If they are above a few metres, 20+ foot whippers are the result ... Into blank air

A climber needs to either boink up or prussic ... Its faster to boink usually

;)

Apparently only 4 rules are required.

Pull up, not down.

Palms down belaying, period.

If your brake hand faces palm-up, I probably won't climb with you. This applies to every device I'm aware of. "Palms-up" with a GriGri is even worse - you're probably letting go of the brake strand to feed rope.

From Petzl:

Belay with palms DOWN

Guy Keesee wrote: I don't need the tight TAKE.... sinking down a few feet, just puts you onto holds that you reached by fair means. Sounds like you need the belayer to also be the WINCH for making upward progress. Ill take, Good catches, nice clips and great lowering skills anyday.

Seriously? You've never had to clip into the anchors of a route to thread the anchor? If a person is too lazy to sit on the rope to take you tight enough for anchor cleaning, do you seriously think they're going to do anything extra to give you a good catch?

Jon H wrote:Palms down belaying, period. If your brake hand faces palm-up, I probably won't climb with you. This applies to every device I'm aware of. "Palms-up" with a GriGri is even worse - you're probably letting go of the brake strand to feed rope. From Petzl:

I think the picture is more indicative of keeping your brake hand down rather than in parallel. I have caught many lead falls (and never dropped anyone) with my palm up. Palm up feels more natural to me. That said, if my partner requests that I belay palm down, I will do that.

beccs wrote: I will say there's nothing more aggravating than when you need your partner to take and you sink 2 ft. Learn how to take in rope and how to bump someone up. Learn how to quickly release tension from the rope when they climber starts climbing again. Be responsive to the climber.

Umm. Or you could learn to climb till you fall instead of yelling take every five feet. Not to mention, this can be dangerous on over hanging routes. It causes a fast pendy into the wall. Ouch.