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What kind of approach shoes should I get next?

Original Post
JeffL · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 65

I've currently got the 5.10 camp fours and I love them. They are going to be worn out pretty soon and I'll be looking for a new pair of approach shoes in the next 6 months. I like everything about the camp fours, with the exception of their bulk and weight. I climb a lot of multipitch grade III and grade IV's, so clipping these shoes to my harness or putting them in a small pack takes up a lot of space. My shoe size is 12.5 US Men's, so I know my shoes will be large regardless, but I was going to see if anyone had a suggestion to drop some weight or save some space inside the pack.

MRock · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 10

The evolv cruizers pack down real small, but they are also made of floppy canvas and pretty unsupportive as a result. But, a long as you aren't carrying 40+lbs, you'll be good. And they are super cheap right now

GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385

I think you need to get 2 shoes, one nice solid shoe like the camp 4 and one small-packable shoe for descents.

I wear a 13/14 and have had the same issue with carrying shoes while climbing. Right now I have a pair of these: leftlanesports.com/product.…

They work okay because they are light, have sticky rubber and are made to be folded, unfortunately they are too wide for me.

If I was to do it over I would probably buy the Evolv Cruisers, but only use them for descents since they look goofy and they don't appear to last very long.

doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264

If you want something with more support and a bit burlier than Evolv Cruzers, check out Guide Tennies by Five Ten or Sportiva Gandas (pricey).

MRock and DoesntCare, how do the Cruzers climb rock? And do you wear them with socks or sockless?

GroundTarp Plouffe · · Groveland, CA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 30

not "approiach" shoes but I have had and currently use brooks cascadias, sturdy enough, clip them to my harness and I barely notice them. Great for long approaches and terribe scree fields descents. I wear them all across the sierra and they never failed me. Plus the new ones have a tighter mesh so less sand and dirt get in my show thatn older pairs. best shoe I've ever had

Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118

Another vote for the Cruzers from me. Perfect for clipping to your harness. I have a pair of the Scarpa crux as well that are a thicker more supportive shoes that I just use for tooling around. I love them as well. It's a perfect combo.

GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385
shopfiveten.com/C-99/Specials

50% off Guide Tennies in a crap load of colors and sizes.

Comes out to $70 after the crappy shipping and taxes to CA.
Alan Doak · · boulder, co · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 120

I also use the guide tennies for approaches/hiking/scrambling/whatever, and a pair of evolv Cruzers for descents. They're both great in their respective roles. The cruzers also climb really well, sometimes I'll use them on easier pitches instead of my climbing shoes to give my feet a rest.

Matt..C · · South Lake Tahoe, CA · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 20
DoesNotCare wrote:http://shopfiveten.com/C-99/Specials 50% off Guide Tennies in a crap load of colors and sizes. Comes out to $70 after the crappy shipping and taxes to CA.
This ends tomorrow for those who are interested.
MRock · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 10

I personally have never climbed in the cruisers, I have five tennies. My buddy however has cruised many routes to my astonishment in the cruisers, no pun intended. His were very blown out last time I saw them.

ze dirtbag · · Tahoe · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 50

i've been through a couple pair of cruisers and keep buying them. for what it sounds like you'll be using them for, they are the way to go.

if you are going to be doing a lot of grade 3/4 peak bagging, i'd prob just buy a pair of cruisers that fit a bit tight and go at it with those.

JeffL · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 65

I tried the cruisers on and didn't like the fit/how low they came up on my heel. I've read reviews about cutting and bashing ankles with them as well. I'm looking into the sportiva vertical k's. Anyone have experience with them? Sportiva climbing shoes have not really liked my foot, hoping these well work out though

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

I have sportiva "trail shoes" and they don't really fit me either.
Clunky but cheap and tough are my MadRock's 2 years old and in good shape\\$50

I never clip stuff to my harness...if i'm carrying stuff,it's in a small pack

Crotch Robbins · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 277

Merrell Trail Gloves are pretty low profile when clipped to your harness. They don't offer a lot of protection but if low bulk is the #1 criteria, give these a look.

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 342

I found a pair of Patagonia Cragmasters for 50% off a fea months ago and have to say I really like them. I am a diehard FiveTen user and have gone through several pair of Guide Tennies and I have to say that for a do it all shoe the Cragmaster has really impressed me. Climbs better, more comfortable standing in aiders. It looks kinda goofy for an around town shoe but that might be ok for most climbers. I wore them last month on Royal Arches and never had to put my climbing shoes on, the Cragmaster felt solid the whole climb.

rebizap · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 0

I have the Adidas Terrex Solo.
I have been pleased with the fit, performance and durability.
They can almost always be found somewhere on sale.

amazon.com/Adidas-Terrex-So…

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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