What is the world's longest finger crack?

On a trip to Acadia in Maine last month, I was blown away by the quality of granite finger cracks. It really got me stoked on that style of climbing. Lamentably, in the Northeast, just about all of our finger cracks seem to clock in under 100 feet (usually under 60...). So what are the world's longest quality finger cracks?

I believe Moonlight Buttress features a lot of finger crack. I've heard it's pretty decent quality as well, haha.

Yeah, Moonlight has a fingers/off-fingercrack, corner to splitter, that goes for well over 500 feet as a single crack I believe.

Exasperator in Squamish is about 200 feet of the same 5.10 splitter fingercrack.

Serenity Crack in Yosemite is over 300 feet of the same fingercrack, too.

Pnelson wrote:Yeah, Moonlight has a fingers/off-fingercrack, corner to splitter, that goes for well over 500 feet as a single crack I believe. Exasperator in Squamish is about 200 feet of the same 5.10 splitter fingercrack. Serenity Crack in Yosemite is over 300 feet of the same fingercrack, too.

Exasperator is "officially" 50m ... And a decent amount of that is off fingers to hands

;)

Max Dismukes wrote:On a trip to Acadia in Maine last month, I was blown away by the quality of granite finger cracks. It really got me stoked on that style of climbing. Lamentably, in the Northeast, just about all of our finger cracks seem to clock in under 100 feet (usually under 60...). So what are the world's longest quality finger cracks?

http://mountainproject.com/v/bony-fingers/105877171, not sure if it's the longest, but at 300 feet, it's not too shabby.

bearbreeder wrote: Exasperator is "officially" 50m ... And a decent amount of that is off fingers to hands ;)

Picky, picky, hehe. Once you factor in the curve of pitch two, it's damn near 200 feet of climbing. And yeah, it's got off fingers and hands, just like Moonlight and Serenity.

Maybe not completely finger but it is a long crack 350+ ft of long relaxing climbing, The Great Arch, NC.

Pnelson wrote: Picky, picky, hehe. Once you factor in the curve of pitch two, it's damn near 200 feet of climbing. And yeah, it's got off fingers and hands, just like Moonlight and Serenity.

How many hand jams are above the traverse on moonlight? I can think of one to exit the chimney and another just above the nutter pitch right before the finish. Am I missing one?

Pnelson wrote: Picky, picky, hehe. Once you factor in the curve of pitch two, it's damn near 200 feet of climbing. And yeah, it's got off fingers and hands, just like Moonlight and Serenity.

I doubt its even 150 ft even with the curve ... A single 60m works just fine with rope to spare

Mostbof the first pitch is off fingers to hands

And the last half of the second pitch is hands

We ran up it today ...



;)

I would say Moonlight. Everything from P4 and above is finger crack which the exception of about 20' of chimney climbing in the middle and about 30' of slab at the top. I think it's quite possibly one of the best free climbs in the world. I would say it's just as classic as The Nose of El Cap IMO.

I want to say University Wall in Squamish has a lot of fingers on it as well, but I have not climbed it (yet).

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion wrote: How many hand jams are above the traverse on moonlight? I can think of one to exit the chimney and another just above the nutter pitch right before the finish. Am I missing one?

The only one I found was in the mini roof above the nutter pitch. Maybe I did one on the chimney and just dont remember. I do seem to recall a large amount of profanity use on the chimney pitch however.

Jake Jones wrote: A cruiser, no doubt, but there is not one single (necessary) jam on this thing. It's a 400 ft layback. Well, 325 feet of layback and 75ft of smear-walk to the last anchor.

Just because you don't climb it in the style that you are looking for doesn't mean it isn't almost completely finger size crack!

But also very few cracks I have seen are 100% finger crack all the way up. Most will have at least 1 hand size crack in it so does that mean it isn't sustained? (or at least for me anyway with my tiny hands and negative ape index)

What I want to know is what is the worlds longest butt crack.

Greg Petliski wrote:Im more into hand cracks, anyone have beta on worlds longest sustained hand crack? Cool idea for a thread btw. And no sarcasm in any of that. Poe's law.

Incredible Hand Crack probably or one of the pitches on Sons of Yesterday.

End of the Line

Indian Creek, Ut

Greg Petliski wrote:Im more into hand cracks, anyone have beta on worlds longest sustained hand crack? Cool idea for a thread btw. And no sarcasm in any of that. Poe's law.

I've always heard the longest handcrack is on tricks of the trade in Zion.

20 kN wrote: Incredible Hand Crack probably or one of the pitches on Sons of Yesterday.

ICH isn't really THAT long...
There's a route out at Indian Creek that supposedly takes 15 gold camalots. Somewhere slightly out of the way but I don't remember the name. Anybody?

What about lotus flower tower? That's kinda long...

Optimistic wrote: ICH isn't really THAT long... There's a route out at Indian Creek that supposedly takes 15 gold camalots. Somewhere slightly out of the way but I don't remember the name.

That sounds like Bunny Slope. It is golds for forever. Probably not 15, though.

The thing about gold camalots is that you don't really need that many. Just keep climbing until it gets hard, and THEN place something of another size :)

Pnelson wrote: That sounds like Bunny Slope. It is golds for forever. Probably not 15, though. The thing about gold camalots is that you don't really need that many. Just keep climbing until it gets hard, and THEN place something of another size :)

I just pictured myself standing at the base of that thing racked up with 15 gold cams, which sounds funny enough to me that I want to go do it even if it's totally unnecessary :)

Optimistic wrote: ICH isn't really THAT long... There's a route out at Indian Creek that supposedly takes 15 gold camalots. Somewhere slightly out of the way but I don't remember the name. Anybody? What about lotus flower tower? That's kinda long...

I know it's not that long, but long hand splitters are quite rare and I was not aware of one longer than IHC or Sons of Yesterday. Sons is probably longer actually as it's hands for two pitches or so, but it goes from #2 to #3, so I am not sure if that qualifies. If there is a 15-gold route at IC, why isint it a mega classic like the ICH?

20 kN wrote: I know it's not that long, but long hand splitters are quite rare and I was not aware of one longer than IHC or Sons of Yesterday. Sons is probably longer actually as it's hands for two pitches or so, but it goes from #2 to #3, so I am not sure if that qualifies. If there is a 15-gold route at IC, why isint it a mega classic like the ICH?

It's out at critic's choice, which is more of a hike, and there looks to be (never been there) a little less easy stuff besides that route.

Ya'll need to broaden your worldview.

Think Pakistan. Or Baffin. Or Patagonia. Or Greenland.

Photo: Fritz Hinderbrander