What is the best edging shoe for Smith rock vertical test pieces?

What is the best edging shoe for Smith rock vertical test pieces?

I'm partial to Lasportiva Miuras. I like the lace up version best.

The one that stays on the foothold?

Phil Chi wrote:I'm partial to La Sportiva Miuras. I like the lace up version best.

I would say that most of the vertical test pieces (To Bolt, Darkness, Last Waltz, Vicious Fish) get done in Anasazi Blancos or Anasazi Verdes. They get done (of course) in Miuras too, but the other, steeper testpeices (White Wedding, Scarface) seem to be a better match.

But now that I think about it, for the Smith test pieces it probably just depends on who's supplying your shoes :-).

Also, I know this from watching others, not from sending.

jon vandub wrote:The one that stays on the foothold?

• rimshot

5.10 galileo gets my vote. Similar to anasazi, but significantly stiffer through point of toe. Would chain reaction really qualify as an edging testpiece?

5.10 anasazi vcs

5.10 Green/White Anasazi & Sportiva Testarossa/Miura VS.

Galileo.

Anyone got new opinions on this topic?

I think Solutions are the best. They're slightly worse at edging than the stiffer LS shoes but they are much better at smearing; the switch from Muria VS was quite helpful for me at Smith as I was only looking for edges before. But I also think fit matters more than anything else, and the marginal benefit of the perfect shoe versus a good shoe is pretty small. 

Katanas are the best edging shoe on the market. Like miuras on steroids.