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What is it about Climbing Gyms?!
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By Mr. Holmes
From Cascade West
Nov 12, 2012
#2
In a recent conversation with an industry leader, climbing, specifically, gym climbing was referred to as a "pub culture". Aside from the obvious (climbing and alcohol's synonymous history), the parallels included scantily clad, social, performance-based...

My question is this: What, in your opinion, is the formula for indoor climbing's success?

Or,

What makes a gym better than good but great?

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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Nov 12, 2012
Epic free solo with a pack on
Same thing that separates the mediocre bar from the outstanding one...boobs

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By S Denny
From Aspen, CO
Nov 12, 2012
/thread

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By NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Nov 12, 2012
tanuki
"Boobs"

Best reply ever!

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By TWK
Nov 12, 2012
The quality and entertainment value of a climbing gym is directly proportional to its distance from a crag and inversely proportional to the quality of the weather at the crag.

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By Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Nov 12, 2012
OTL
Nope - should have said "jugs" - would have been the better reply.

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By MattL
From Boulder, CO
Nov 12, 2012
me
Matt N wrote:
Nope - should have said "jugs" - would have been the better reply.


Jugs would imply that you could be referring to large in-cut urethane objects as well as God's greatest gift to mankind. Some shallow guys are totally into plastic jugs, hope you are not one of them! :p

Boobs.

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By Brent Apgar
From Out of the Loop
Nov 12, 2012
Me and Spearhead
TWK wrote:
The quality and entertainment value of a climbing gym is directly proportional to its distance from a crag and inversely proportional to the quality of the weather at the crag.


This is a lot like pub culture too... basically you're talking about the desperation of the patrons.

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By Brent Apgar
From Out of the Loop
Nov 12, 2012
Me and Spearhead
To the OP:
Having spent a lot of time in climbing gyms (mostly in Southern CA, Portland, OR and Boulder/Denver area) I would have to say that, for me at least, it comes down to
1. The community of climbers in the gym
2. The quality of the route setting
3. The variety of terrain and holds

Since these are all pretty subjective depending on who you are that may not really give you any info.

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By bearbreeder
Nov 12, 2012
boobays ;)

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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Nov 13, 2012
...
"My question is this: What, in your opinion, is the formula for indoor climbing's success?"...

For "n00bs" it's the feeling of adventure and they THINK they're actually CLIMBING something of merit...

For already established, "Climbers", the appeal is of course it's availability, ease of access, social aspect (SOME of these are true for the n00bs also), place to TRAIN, and all the above.

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By Adam B
From Wheat Ridge, CO
Nov 13, 2012
Middle St. Vrain
Ben Botelho wrote:
Same thing that separates the mediocre bar from the outstanding one...boobs


Nailed it! For many reasons, if girls go to a bar/gym that place is decent and attracts a crowd. Ladies have good taste and smell good. Dudes, well we're just dumb and like to be around ladies.

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By Mr. Holmes
From Cascade West
Nov 13, 2012
#2
chufftard wrote:
Birthday parties and kids running amok! Yay!



This only occurs because us dirtbag climbers complain the most and pay the least. To cover the cost of Gym overhead something has to give.

On that Note WHEN is the best time (for you) to have your gym run these types of events?

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By Mr. Holmes
From Cascade West
Nov 13, 2012
#2
Locker wrote:
"My question is this: What, in your opinion, is the formula for indoor climbing's success?"... For "n00bs" it's the feeling of adventure and they THINK they're actually CLIMBING something of merit... For already established, "Climbers", the appeal is of course it's availability, ease of access, social aspect (SOME of these are true for the n00bs also), place to TRAIN, and all the above.



How much of TRAINING , in your opinion, is self motivated and how much is , "I took a class on____ and it was great"?

that is to say, how many of your friends would pay cash and attend a pro-athlete led clinic to get better at climbing?

...Is this a new topic heading???

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By ascender30
Nov 13, 2012
Indoor climbing gyms...it's all about nOObs with bOObs, and you KNOW it

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By Mr. Holmes
From Cascade West
Nov 13, 2012
#2
ascender30 wrote:
Indoor climbing gyms...it's all about nOObs with bOObs, and you KNOW it



So what draws the noobs???

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By Avi Katz
Nov 13, 2012
are you in an area with a large climbing community? Are they down to earth or dicks? What effect does the local weather play in driving outdoor climbers indoors? do you cater to large birthday parties? (1 8yr olds bday party may equal the same profit as a day of regular climbers).getting kids psyched at a young age will help insure a market down the road. along the same lines- kids classes. and team. is the routesetting good? when it comes down to it the gym is only as good as the routes. DONT PLAY POP MUSIC.
and yes, boobs.

I've climbed at a lot of gyms that were ok/good. Outside is GREAT.

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By Kurt Johnson
From Estes Park, CO
Nov 13, 2012
A ladybug on a rock in front of Conundrum Peak, El...
Not sure why people climb in gyms. I'd much rather climb outside.

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By Allen Corneau
From Houston, TX
Nov 13, 2012
Kurt Johnson wrote:
Not sure why people climb in gyms. I'd much rather climb outside.


Because some of us don't have an "outside" that is less than a 5 hour round trip drive.

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By bearbreeder
Nov 13, 2012
Kurt Johnson wrote:
Not sure why people climb in gyms. I'd much rather climb outside.



because unless yr guiding, part time or an unemployed bum ... its better than sitting in front of the TV and eating cheezy poofs on the 4-5 days a week average that you cant get outside

id rather take someone who trains at the gym and goes outside every holiday/weekend he/she can ... than those people who yack about how hardcore they are for not going to the gym on the intrawebs, and spends the time surfing porn ...

and this is coming from someone who climbs 150-200 days a week outside ;)

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By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Nov 13, 2012
At the BRC
bearbreeder wrote:
and this is coming from someone who climbs 150-200 days a week outside ;)


That's a lot of climbing in a week!

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By bearbreeder
Nov 13, 2012
Mark E Dixon wrote:
That's a lot of climbing in a week!


its like dog years ;)

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By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Nov 13, 2012
Stabby
My feelings when I'm in a gym:
"I hate this place. This zoo. This prison. This reality, whatever you want to call it, I can't stand it any longer. It's the smell, if there is such a thing. I feel saturated by it. I can taste your stink and every time I do, I fear that I've somehow been infected by it."

Why do climbing gyms always have that damn stink? Is it the shoes?

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By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Nov 13, 2012
At the BRC
Kurt Johnson wrote:
Not sure why people climb in gyms.


I like climbing outside, but enjoy climbing inside too.
I am extremely lucky that there are 3 excellent gyms within minutes of my house. And even luckier that I can climb during the day when the crowds are light.
Routes inside (at well set gyms) are about movement. Fun, interesting challenging, climbing movement. What's not to like about that?
You can use indoor climbing to train for other venues, just like you can use cragging outdoors to train for the greater ranges, but both can be enjoyable in themselves.
If my local gym was poorly set, crowded, and stinky, I might feel differently!

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By Mr. Holmes
From Cascade West
Nov 13, 2012
#2
I am not referring to one gym in particular. I have managed several. I am located in the PNW so weather is more a factor than proximity.
Still good stuff....
The stink....
The Boobs....
The lack of cheesy poofs.... Good stuff

But what about adult classes, clinics and events? worthwhile? helpful toward overall technique? Shit shows?

Thanks to all, keep it coming!

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By redlude97
Nov 13, 2012
Boobs are good. If you aren't completely socially inept, those boobs will climb with you. Rinse and repeat.

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