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What is Happening to the V-Scale?
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By Jeremy Hand
Jul 10, 2012
slopey
Cool story, I flashed this 5.14 boulder problem yesterday after about 2 hours of leading and called it v6

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By JohnWesely
From Red River Gorge
Jul 10, 2012
Gunking
Why is it that everybody who is insistent that the YDS/V Scale/Whatever only takes into account the hardest move never climbs at a level where how sustained a climb is would make a difference?

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By Unassigned User
Jul 10, 2012
Jeremy Hand wrote:
Cool story, I flashed this 5.14 boulder problem yesterday after about 2 hours of leading and called it v6


I have a way better story. One time I was working a little boulder problem in J-Tree called Leave it to Beaver, I peeled half way up, caught myself on the rest crimp on the bottom. Finished it and rated it V0+.

EDIT: I did this clean, i.e. without a bouldering pad.

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By Jeremy Hand
Jul 10, 2012
slopey
J Hazard wrote:
I have a way better story. One time I was working a little boulder problem in J-Tree called Leave it to Beaver, I peeled half way up, caught myself on the rest crimp on the bottom. Finished it and rated it V0+. EDIT: I did this clean, i.e. without a bouldering pad.


Really? V0+? I campus onsighted that route while I got my buddies to throw stones at my head and figured it was no harder than v0-.

EDIT: I spiked that route aka dropped a bunch of rust nails and shards of glass at the bottom

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By Joe Virtanen
From Asheville, NC
Jul 10, 2012
Pit BBQ
JohnWesely wrote:
Why is it that everybody who is insistent that the YDS/V Scale/Whatever only takes into account the hardest move never climbs at a level where how sustained a climb is would make a difference?


Your comment is very odd. How sustained a route is would make a difference at any level, would it not?

If 5.9 were the hardest move I could pull, then having a route that has 20 5.9 moves in a row would be large a difference for me.

What is the level of radness at which one is qualified to have an opinion on this subject?

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By Jeremy Hand
Jul 10, 2012
slopey
Joe Virtanen wrote:
Your comment is very odd. How sustained a route is would make a difference at any level, would it not? If 5.9 were the hardest move I could pull, then having a route that has 20 5.9 moves in a row would be large a difference for me. What is the level of radness at which one is qualified to have an opinion on this subject?


you must be a competant 7c climber. thanks

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By Jeremy Hand
Jul 10, 2012
slopey
that is 7c SUSTAINED. no one 7c move wonders.

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By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
Jul 10, 2012
Colonel Mustard
Joe Virtanen wrote:
Your comment is very odd.


No shit. I flat out didn't understand what he was saying.

As useful as they are, subjective scales will always be somewhat flawed. In the end, there's only what you can and what you can't do.

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By Unassigned User
Jul 10, 2012
Jeremy Hand wrote:
Really? V0+? I campus onsighted that route while I got my buddies to throw stones at my head and figured it was no harder than v0-. EDIT: I spiked that route aka dropped a bunch of rust nails and shards of glass at the bottom


I will have to go back and do it again. I think last time my body fat % was around 5. Now I am probably in the low 2's.

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By JohnWesely
From Red River Gorge
Jul 10, 2012
Gunking
Joe Virtanen wrote:
Your comment is very odd. How sustained a route is would make a difference at any level, would it not? If 5.9 were the hardest move I could pull, then having a route that has 20 5.9 moves in a row would be large a difference for me. What is the level of radness at which one is qualified to have an opinion on this subject?


Usually, but not always, there is so much weight on your feet at the lower grades that doing a 5.8 or 5.9 move over and over again is not going to generate a pump in the same way a harder move would.

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By Joe Virtanen
From Asheville, NC
Jul 10, 2012
Pit BBQ
JohnWesely wrote:
Usually, but not always, there is so much weight on your feet at the lower grades that doing a 5.8 or 5.9 move over and over again is not going to generate a pump in the same way a harder move would.


Maybe not for you, but that's the inherent premise of a subjective rating system. 20 5.9 moves on a slabbier wall might not give you a pump, but it sure as heck would generate pump in the forearms of a 5.9 max climber.

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By boulderbum
From NY
Jul 13, 2012
lol @ 2% bf. i dont think youd be alive, much less climbing.

did you come to that figure on your own, i hope?

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