|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||Shane Cobourn, Wes Love, Sean Cobourn (1980's)|
|Submitted By:||Sean Cobourn on Aug 4, 2008|
|Comments on What Else Is There To Do?||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Eduardo Ramirez
From: Columbia, SC
Jul 2, 2012
Two different starts before the 5.6 slab.
1) The crack on the left is suppose to be 5.7 and looked harder than the direct on the right. I didn't have the topo on me when I choosing my start so I picked what looked easier to me. I finally climbed this alt. start and it felt harder than 5.7 but I also don't climb a lot of finger cracks. Protecting the start was probably the hardest part of this small feature.
2) The crack on the right(direct) is 5.8 CRACK climbing! Great hand jams through this short feature. Climbing mellows out to some easy slab but make sure to bring your micro-cams or small nuts.
By Edward Medina
From: Ridgway, CO
Mar 12, 2013
|Climbed the direct start this weekend. First 15 feet felt more like 5.9 to me. Protects very well though.|
From: Charlotte, NC
Feb 23, 2014
I agree with Medina - left crack (alt 1) felt much harder than 5.7 and felt more like 5.9. Perhaps a hold is missing now that used to be in the crux?? Not sure but it's stout and overhanging. Once you manage the overhung finger crack you'll arrive at a large ledge that is full of briars -- had to traverse high and to the right to avoid the thorns which makes the move into the dihedral interesting. Use long slings to control rope drag through the traverse.
The slab/dihedral is fun and interesting. A few rotten pieces (on par with Crowders) but sufficiently solid with good pro. Pulling the roof seemed easier going right. Protects well with 0.3 BD cam.