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Routes in Wall 2
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Atlantean a-Go-Go T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Barracudas! T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Fantastic Coffee T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Give Back My Walls! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Monsters in the Bathroom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Off to Work T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Piano Lessons T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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State of My Tractor, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Surfing the River (with a Boat on Each Foot) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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What Dumb-asses! T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 160 ft (48 m) |
| FA: | Jeff Mahoney and Alex Lau, 9/3/12 |
| Page Views: | 1,402 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Jeff Mahoney on Apr 20, 2014 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Long, varied and quite fun. Head straight up the thinner crack (that gives you gear options where you want them) to the small scrub oak.
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Climb through the steeper pod past the tree and continue on through an easing section, aiming for the notch roof. The crux is getting over the roof. A little reachy and steep, but you can slot a good finger piece or two that will ease the mind. Finish the crack straight up, or for more value, take the diagonal crack left and finish with the nice "Off to Work" finger section. (Minimize rope drag with slings---it'll be a fight if you're only using draws, and make sure you're using a 60m rope. Very much worth the effort.)
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Use the good oak tree 20' back from the top, along with a #4 in the crack for your anchor, or build your one in the finger crack just below the edge. Walking off to climber's left and down the gully can sometimes be faster than rapping.
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Climb through the steeper pod past the tree and continue on through an easing section, aiming for the notch roof. The crux is getting over the roof. A little reachy and steep, but you can slot a good finger piece or two that will ease the mind. Finish the crack straight up, or for more value, take the diagonal crack left and finish with the nice "Off to Work" finger section. (Minimize rope drag with slings---it'll be a fight if you're only using draws, and make sure you're using a 60m rope. Very much worth the effort.)
Use the good oak tree 20' back from the top, along with a #4 in the crack for your anchor, or build your one in the finger crack just below the edge. Walking off to climber's left and down the gully can sometimes be faster than rapping.
Protection
A rack of singles to 4" (the 4" for building the anchor, if you do the "Off to Work" finish---recommended) and a few extra finger pieces if you want to sew it up. (Tri-cams and/or some offset nuts work well, too.) Make sure you have plenty of slings---it's a long route at 160'. The roof crux takes a solid finger-sized piece (or two) to ease the mind.
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