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What does your Woody look like???
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By Dustin Clelen
From Boulder, CO
Jun 13, 2010
Psyched to finally top out on Half Dome.  Photo by Matt Spohn

Andy, I hope the photos below answer your questions. If you have more, feel free to ask. Hope you're well!

Dustin

The only 'permanent' part of the woody...as long as you consider 9 screws permanent.
The only 'permanent' part of the woody...as long as you consider 9 screws permanent.


Almost looks like MC Escher was on the design crew for this one.  Seems to be working well at the 3 month mark though!
Almost looks like MC Escher was on the design crew for this one. Seems to be working well at the 3 month mark though!


The support apparatus hanging in the doorway.
The support apparatus hanging in the doorway.


Same thing from the other side of the doorway.
Same thing from the other side of the doorway.


What it looks like during use.
What it looks like during use.


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By Couloirman
From Providence, RI
Jun 14, 2010
speedriding vail pass

Beastmaker 3000!
Beastmaker 3000!



I live in a little apartment in the middle of the city, so this is the best I could do. Im adding some pinches this afternoon because at this point that is the only grip position I cant train on my current setup. I put the weight bench behind the boards to simulate overhangs and move from bottom board to top, or just use it like a regular hangboard. Been extremely happy with this setup.

Before I put the simulator on there, I called it the Beastmaker 3000. This setup, plus my rowing machine has made me go up a full number grade over the winter.


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By tscupp
From Cincinnati, OH
Jun 23, 2010
CroMagnon

Couloirman wrote:
I live in a little apartment in the middle of the city, so this is the best I could do. Im adding some pinches this afternoon because at this point that is the only grip position I cant train on my current setup. I put the weight bench behind the boards to simulate overhangs and move from bottom board to top, or just use it like a regular hangboard. Been extremely happy with this setup. Before I put the simulator on there, I called it the Beastmaker 3000. This setup, plus my rowing machine has made me go up a full number grade over the winter.


Hey Couloirman, your set up looks great! I'm curious, how stable is it? Did you use any bolts or just screws? Also, is it anchored in to any supporting structure? Also, (last question, I promise) how long are the base beams and the angled beams?

I've been working on a freestanding hangboard myself and I opted to avoid the center vertical beam and go with a bit more of a box-like structure. Unfortunately, it ended up being more complicated than I anticipated and though I'm not finished, I'm questioning the final stability so I'm thinking about scrapping it and building one nearly identical to yours.


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By Couloirman
From Providence, RI
Jun 25, 2010
speedriding vail pass

I got the idea from Eric Horst's book 'Flash Training' where he lays out good plans for the very same free standing frame.


The board is very stable in that I have total confidence in it not falling over, but it does sway a bit when doing campus moves. Putting 50lb sand bags on the legs would help, as would putting an X in the bottom frame to prevent the two uprights from moving in relation to eachother(if that makes sense).

I only used screws(but I did use a bunch of them), no bolts, but also have 90 degree pieces of metal I bought from home depot that I put at the perpendicular between the 2 horizontal floor boards and the 2 vertical uprights.

There is no anchor or support attached to any wall or support structure of the apartment, it is a truly free standing hangboard that I can move around at will, and even store stuff under as you see in the pic.

As for mounting the flat boards to put the holds on, the lower board is on the rear of the vertical 4x4, and the upper board is on the front which kind of simulates overhang if you put your feet on a chair behind it and move around on the holds.

The base beams are 48" 2x4's, and the vertical uprights are 7 foot 4x4's. The diagonal support boards are at 45 degree angles to both the floor and uprights, I believe are 31" long but Ill have to check on that, and the ends are cut at 45 degree angles to be flush with the floor and vertical beams.



I love this thing and recommend it to anyone wanting to train in the comfort of their own home without putting any holes in the wall. Good luck building yours, and let me know if you have any more questions


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By tscupp
From Cincinnati, OH
Jul 14, 2010
CroMagnon

Front view
Front view


back side - those are climbit pinches and slopers.
back side - those are climbit pinches and slopers.



So I finally finished my self standing hangboard. The whole project took way longer and was more expensive that I initially imagined but oh well. On the front side I am using a beastmaker board. The backside contains 5 t nut placements mostly for training different size pinches. There is also a pulley system to take off weight of course and there is plenty of space on the vertical beams to add more plywood. I have an nicros warrior board that I am going to add eventually for warming up because right now the easiest hold is a deep pocket on the beastmaker.


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By Jason Gilbert
From Lakewood
Aug 12, 2010
...And a few Push-ups just for fun.

Iím thinking of adding a few volumes to my wall this fall.

Anyone with good directions, links or plans? I want to add a couple triangle shapes and maybe a 3 or 4 sided fang.


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By Chris Naugle
Aug 12, 2010
My first trip to Rumney '04

40 degree wall
40 degree wall


2 30 degree walls
2 30 degree walls


I bought this woodie from a friend back home for 300 bucks. Now I have something to do when the weather in New England is crap. Took me 3 weeks to design and 1 week to build.


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By Woodchuck ATC
Aug 12, 2010
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

I like the enclosed 'side walls' to it. better than just a flat hanging board of plywood.


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By Andy Librande
From Denver, CO
Aug 13, 2010
Me in the Buddha Cave at crumblewood a while ago.

Jason Gilbert wrote:
Iím thinking of adding a few volumes to my wall this fall. Anyone with good directions, links or plans? I want to add a couple triangle shapes and maybe a 3 or 4 sided fang.



Hey Jason - After looking at the wall a simple Triangle volume might add a-lot to your set-up. They are really easy to build and when I built mine it went by really quick.

If you look at this photo here: mountainproject.com/v/andy_librande/106638497 you can see the first volume I built for one of my walls that is similar to yours.

-All I did was measure out the top triangle piece to the size that I want it (about 10"x10"x10").
-Then I measured out one of the sides (2ft long, 10" tall, solve for angle). Also it helps to use one of the corners in sheet of plywood to help keep it a true right angle.
-The third piece is actually the same as the other side except it is 1/2" or 3/4" shorter on the side that touches the top triangle (ie the thickness of the wood.
-Screw each piece together into the seams. For extra stability get some angle brackets and put them on the inside.
- Trim down the sides that will touch the wall to make it more flush.
-Sand it so that it is nice to the touch
- Mount with screws onto wall.

More examples inspiration:
motavationvolumes.com/products/door-stop
boloclimbing.com/volumes.htm


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By thinayr
Aug 18, 2010

Just finished my little proj here in the g'rage! Took about two months worth of tinkering from start to finish... problem solving every step of the way.

My angles are 18.5, 22.5 & 45, with some vert around the door. Would have gone steeper but had to optimize my minimal space. The angles are actually not too bad, I was worried it would be too easy, but the wall is long enough that I can make bigger moves and set routes with plenty of tiny edges and slopers... The hardest part has been setting "easy" routes for non-climbing friends...

I was fortunate to be connected with a former climbing gym owner who sold me most of my holds for waaaay below normal prices... still, I've now got the *itch* and have already ordered numerous goodies from Nicros, ClimbIt and The DRCC that should be showing up here any day now... Can't wait!

Have been spending many hours "hangin" in the cave... There really is no better way to train than having a woodie!

Bear Pig is my spotter...
Bear Pig is my spotter...


UPDATE: Been a few months, here are some youtube clips showing just how much money I've been blowing on holds! Woo!






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By Woodchuck ATC
Aug 19, 2010
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

Does the dog do 5.11 routes?


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By thinayr
Aug 19, 2010

She says she's ready to lead, but I'm still a bit weary... Too easily distracted by chipmunks, plus she has no thumbs and is a dog.


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By thinayr
Aug 31, 2010

Hey All,

SO, I have been struggling a bit with setting problems on the new wall, specifically: setting problems for non-climbing friends and family that are fun, challenging and keep them interested, as well as having a wall with a variety of difficulty levels which is easy to set new routes on.

After months of frustration I think I've found a solution, and I wanted to pass this method along as it may be helpful for others with similar problem-setting problems. I posted it here:

www.mountainproject.com/v/bouldering/a_cool_method_for_home_>>>

Let me know what you think!


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By Andy Librande
From Denver, CO
Sep 21, 2010
Me in the Buddha Cave at crumblewood a while ago.

For a while now I wanted to hold a competition on my home woody and invite a bunch of friends over to climb and drink beer.

A couple weekends ago I finally held that event and set a number of problems and gave each one a point value. Also we had awards for 1st-3rd for Mens/Womens and prizes for fun things such as Best Costume, Best Determination, Best Moves, Kegmeister (where you had to do a keg stand then go climb), etc.

I put together a little video to show off all of the action and give you a feel for some of the problems and a much better idea of how the home woody climbs.

Also a recap of everything including comp rules, etc can be found here: andylibrande.com/news/2010/09/backyard-bouldering-comp-resul>>>






Whitney climbing on the wall during a recent friendly competition I threw. <br /> <br />All of the problems were individually taped and there were "Bonus" holds which are the Smith Stickers.
Whitney climbing on the wall during a recent friendly competition I threw.

All of the problems were individually taped and there were "Bonus" holds which are the Smith Stickers.

Prizes for the Backyard Bouldering Comp 2010!!!
Prizes for the Backyard Bouldering Comp 2010!!!


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By Carl Dowdy
From Golden, CO
Oct 13, 2010

Finally got this thing about done. All of the photos in this thread were helpful in planning, Thanks! If anyone in the Denver area is looking to get rid of a queen mattress, I could use some more padding.


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By Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Oct 13, 2010
OMG, I winz!!!

Wow nice Carl. How tall are those walls?


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By Carl Dowdy
From Golden, CO
Oct 13, 2010

Chris Plesko wrote:
Wow nice Carl. How tall are those walls?


Thanks. The ceiling in my garage is a few inches shy of 12 feet. I put up some photos/details of the build in a thread I started on 14ers.com looking for some bug free mattresses www.14ers.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=326944#p326944


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By Andy Librande
From Denver, CO
Oct 14, 2010
Me in the Buddha Cave at crumblewood a while ago.

Carl Dowdy wrote:
Finally got this thing about done. All of the photos in this thread were helpful in planning


Looks really good! Pretty crazy that you had to put in all of those 2x10 joists in the ceiling but the pictures of the transformation is pretty cool.

I would give you a mattress that I am not using anymore but from that height I don't think it will be very good (been used a lot for landing and the padding is pretty much done leaving some hard landings on the springs).

Good luck with it.

ps. Also since you have limited holds you might want to build a triangle volume or two with any scraps that you have. Easy way to make a cool feature and put small holds on it to save $.


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By Woodchuck ATC
Nov 1, 2010
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

It's fall woodie time, almost ready to come indoors for the winter. Last few outdoor wall days ahead until it's gym time through the cold northern winters.....and then again ice climbs will be ready soon too!

Outdoor wall in the fall.
Outdoor wall in the fall.



Bouldering time.
Bouldering time.



Last steep bouldering days ahead.
Last steep bouldering days ahead.



Up over the big roof finish
Up over the big roof finish





Indoor for ice wall seasonal warm up climbs.
Indoor for ice wall seasonal warm up climbs.


Indoor roofs for the winter time.
Indoor roofs for the winter time.


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By Adam Stec
From South Barrington, IL
Feb 7, 2011

My new wall
My new wall


My new wall 2
My new wall 2


Just built my wall this past weekend in the garage.


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By Brendan Blanchard
From Strafford, NH
Feb 7, 2011
Obi Wan Ryobi - Darth Vader Crag, Rumney NH

Built this fall as a senior project so I can graduate high school...good choice :)


My old set-up for the wall...holds have changed around now.
My old set-up for the wall...holds have changed around now.



Having a little fun on the roof...it's not actually snowing, its a closed room with a lot of chalk, which apparently reacts well to camera flashes.
Having a little fun on the roof...it's not actually snowing, its a closed room with a lot of chalk, which apparently reacts well to camera flashes.



The holds have moved around, and theres more now, I'm just re-arranging for new routes as cabin fever comes full swing.

Slightly overhung except the 3' vertical below the left side.


Adam - You don't believe in jugs do you?


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By Travis Spaulding
From Las Vegas, NV.
Feb 8, 2011
The first pitch belay on Chips and Salsa (5.3) Red Rocks, NV.

I wanna go climb at Woodchuck's house.....

All of these are great, amazing what some brain power can do in the right direction.

Now if we could direct all that to a comprehensive wilderness management plan that we would all agree on and shove through the NPS/BLM red tape...

Sorry, was dreaming for a sec ;)

Awesome walls everyone!


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By Adam Stec
From South Barrington, IL
Feb 8, 2011

Brendan Blanchard wrote:
Adam - You don't believe in jugs do you?


A lot of these holds are actually incut medium jugs. I do need to get some larger holds as I'm just getting back into climbing after 6 months off and the 30 degree overhang is pretty hard right now.


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By Dan Brayack
From Marmet, WV
Feb 8, 2011
Coopers Rock, WV

camhead wrote:
It's just a bit bigger than a home woody, but the place I train in Columbus is awesome, and definitely is NOT a commercial climbing gym. Started as a guy's basement woody, gradually grew, and for the last couple years he's gotten enough in cooperative members' fees to rent a small garage space in a back alley. One of the best training facilities I've seen, and still has more of a home woody vibe to it. From a recent comp:

I thought I recognized that place...


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By Owen Darrow
From Garmisch,
Feb 8, 2011
Nice view

Wow! These wall look too sick


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