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What does your Woody look like???
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By Woodchuck ATC
Nov 19, 2013
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

Agree, you want to cover it thick with holds since the wall is limited in space. Always check ebay for cheap, used ones or bucket deals of 'blems that companies often put up there for sale. At least 50 more I'd guess.


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By AST
Nov 19, 2013

These pics are 17+ years old. I built this gym in the modified A-frame house I live in at Lake Tahoe. Came in real handy in the dead of winter. Back then was when everyone and their brother was trying to start a company making holds. I worked in an outdoor shop and was able to get all my holds for either wholesale, pro deal, or free samples by telling the companies we wanted to carry their holds in the store.

Never actually put on display any holds in said store. What can I say? I was a broke-ass dirtbag who didn't want to spend any money.





45 degree wall and 15 degree wall connected by 8 feet of roof. Also had a campus board in the back yard with custom made rungs.


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By Woodchuck ATC
Nov 19, 2013
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

AST wrote:
These pics are 17+ years old. I built this gym in the modified A-frame house I live in at Lake Tahoe. Came in real handy in the dead of winter. Back then was when everyone and their brother was trying to start a company making holds. I worked in an outdoor shop and was able to get all my holds for either wholesale, pro deal, or free samples by telling the companies we wanted to carry their holds in the store. Never actually put on display any holds in said store. What can I say? I was a broke-ass dirtbag who didn't want to spend any money. 45 degree wall and 15 degree wall connected by 8 feet of roof. Also had a campus board in the back yard with custom made rungs.



Same thing here! I was promoting my new indoor wall in 89-90, before there was any internet contacts,, when there were just a handful of hold companies. I got a ton of free samples from most, and reduced prices from the rest. Kept at it until the hold makers thing just blew wide open so anybody was making them by 10 years ago. I still have some holds from now nonexisting companies of early 90's like Carp' holds..they have held up in all weather on outdoor wall since 19 years ago, with some weathering but still holding strong.


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By JonSpringer
Nov 21, 2013

i'll have to work on getting more. i have 58 holds to start


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By Woodchuck ATC
Nov 21, 2013
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

expect to use about 30 per 4 by 8 sheet of plywood,,depending on how many huge ones or volumes you have. Are you building any home made wood volumes to place on wall too?


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By Drew Nevius
From Oklahoma
Nov 22, 2013
BETA: For me, crux move was sticking the move to the flake above these crimps

Woodchuck ATC wrote:
expect to use about 30 per 4 by 8 sheet of plywood,,depending on how many huge ones or volumes you have. Are you building any home made wood volumes to place on wall too?


I have a different thought on this one - I counted the holds on my wall (8ft wide 8ft tall 40deg) and realized I had about 85 holds or just over 40 on each 4x8 sheet and wish I had at least 20 more for each sheet. You probably want less hold on your wall Woodchuck since it's a larger toproping wall


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By Tipton
Nov 22, 2013

Drew Nevius wrote:
I have a different thought on this one - I counted the holds on my wall (8ft wide 8ft tall 40deg) and realized I had about 85 holds or just over 40 on each 4x8 sheet and wish I had at least 20 more for each sheet. You probably want less hold on your wall Woodchuck since it's a larger toproping wall


I tend to agree. The more holds the better. I try not to buy any holds that are larger than a mini-jug, it just wastes valuable space. I have a couple of large two handed jugs and slopers but otherwise my wall is covered in smaller holds. Other than the occasional rotation or swapping a hold or two, I haven't pulled them off in almost 2 years. There's just so much variety to be had when a different hold is already attached and only an inch or two away. I'm always in awe when I see pictures of CATS gym, if you have a smaller wall you better take advantage of every inch.

Jon - One more thing, put your screw-on holds in a horizontal orientation and use bolt-ons for the sidepulls or underclings. It's easy to get tired of holds that are at a funky angle and it's nice to be able to quickly spin them to a new orientation.


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By Ashinynickel
Nov 22, 2013

Here is a picture of my almost finished woody that I managed to cram into my San Francisco apartment. The wall is free standing and very stable. 15 degree wall on the left, 35 degree wall on the right.


trapezoidal bouldering cave
trapezoidal bouldering cave


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By Woodchuck ATC
Nov 22, 2013
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

Drew Nevius wrote:
I have a different thought on this one - I counted the holds on my wall (8ft wide 8ft tall 40deg) and realized I had about 85 holds or just over 40 on each 4x8 sheet and wish I had at least 20 more for each sheet. You probably want less hold on your wall Woodchuck since it's a larger toproping wall


yeah I don't want to crowd it for the routes on my bigger wall, but the 'boudery' sections are loaded up so you can just hang and make moves left or right on numerous holds per board. No need to do when I can continue route-like up 20 some feet on outdoor wall, roofs and steep overhangs.


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By Sr Rake
From Tucson
Nov 26, 2013

Here's a few pics of the woody I built last month. I used to climb as a teenager and during the first few years of college, but I haven't done any climbing at all for the past decade. I have been wanting to get my 3 and 5 year old boys into climbing as they are natural monkeys. When I looked into a local gym membership it was going to be over $100/month. So I started drawing up plans for a backyard woody especially since we live in AZ and can use it year round.


I ended up picking up all of the panels and most of the holds, 2x4's and hardware for $250 from a guy who was moving and selling his bedroom wall on CL. I have about $50 worth of additional hardware into it. Since the dude had originally designed it for the roof of a staircase, the panels are kind of odd sized. I did the best I could with what I had and ended up with a 6' wide back wall that is on a 15 degree overhand and leads into about a 60 degree overhang. The sides are vertical. Right now it's just covered with a tarp to keep it dry. It ended up being pretty tall, so I'm hoping the HOA doesn't hassle me (we rent so nothing is permanent and it's freestanding).

Thanks to everyone for the inspiration and tips. I'm hoping to meet some MP folks out on the real rocks once I gain my strength back.

Front
Front


Side/roof
Side/roof


Side
Side


Boys
Boys


Boys
Boys


Biys
Biys


Upside down
Upside down


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By Jawon
Nov 27, 2013
Yes climbing

Here's mine in another post. And as it says in the post, I'm willing to share more details about the design and lessons learned if people are interested...

www.mountainproject.com/v/lessons-learned-building-and-maint>>>


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By JonSpringer
Dec 2, 2013

wall with holds
wall with holds



Woodchuck: I do plan on building volumes eventually. Hopefully sooner than later, I just need to figure out the angles and design


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By Ace1810
Dec 2, 2013

Hi everyone,

Here is my new sloper trainer I just finished. It's about 8.5 feet tall with 4" holds with skateboard grip tape. Let me know what you think.

-cheers,
Stephen

Sloper trainer
Sloper trainer


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By Woodchuck ATC
Dec 2, 2013
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

JonSpringer wrote:
Woodchuck: I do plan on building volumes eventually. Hopefully sooner than later, I just need to figure out the angles and design


I never got picky about my volumes; just used any scrap plywood around and cut them to triangle/pyramid shapes for easiest construction. Big huge ass 8 inch bolt to get it on the wall, then drilled and screwed all around the edges for full mounting strength. If it's staying in place for a long time, I caulk it all around too .


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By JonSpringer
Dec 3, 2013

Woodchuck: how did you attach it using a bolt on a pyramid?


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By Mile9
From Logan
Dec 4, 2013
kirk

Video is of my kids in our basement bouldering cave. Pic is our wall in the garage.

I started a free instructional site for people wanting to build home walls. There will also be route setter interviews, product reviews, and a gallery of rad walls.

It is still a work in progress, but please check it out and please subscribe to the emails. We are giving away some substantial quantities of donated climbing hold packages every couple of months (big giveaway next week!)

www.homerockclimbingwalls.com



wall in the garage... after hours
wall in the garage... after hours


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By Andy Librande
From Denver, CO
Dec 6, 2013
Me in the Buddha Cave at crumblewood a while ago.

JonSpringer wrote:
Woodchuck: how did you attach it using a bolt on a pyramid?


For a home wall I have found that trying to build the proper bolt-hole is way too much work for the reward. In commercial applications it makes sense, however for home woodies just put in 3-5 screws per side (I like to make the pilot holes first to make sure the screws go in easy).

Here is a tutorial w/video I put together on how to build a simple triangle volume as just this one volume can add a ton of moves/variety to your wall: andylibrande.com/homeclimbingwall/2012/03/build-a-triangle-w>>>

If you are interested in adding a bolt take a look at these guys and how they make them for commercial gyms: www.motavationvolumes.com/


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By Mile9
From Logan
Dec 6, 2013
kirk

Andy, thanks for the link on building volumes. Great tutorial. Looks like I have another weekend project!


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By Hard Landin' Brandon
From Happy Camp, CA
Dec 9, 2013
Gneiss day for climbing in Western Massachusetts!  Time to put some scratches on that new #4 cam.

I've been watching this thread for years -- thanks to everyone who kept me inspired with their awesome home walls. About a year ago I saw this freestanding design posted in this forum, and I started to get serious about building my own. I also got better at SketchUp and came up with a modified design:

SketchUp model of woody
SketchUp model of woody

(the woman on the upstairs porch is decidedly nonplussed, and while the downstairs woman sucks at spotting, I think she is totally psyched on the project). The wall is adjustable, from -5 degrees (slab) to 65 degrees overhanging and rotates around its midpoint, so a person can easily do it alone. Kick boards of 3 different sizes hang on "lift off" hinges to accommodate the different wall angles. It's all built around a Moonboard so I'll never have a shortage of new problems.
Wall at 40 degrees, kick board detached.
Wall at 40 degrees, kick board detached.


Wall at 65 degrees. Steeeeeep.
Wall at 65 degrees. Steeeeeep.




Would I build it again? Heck no. It was really labor intensive, over budget, and the tight tolerances allowed little margin for error (which is a margin I'm apparently very good at pushing!) It's also hard to cover with anything but a tarp. But now that it's sitting out there, I'm very happy to have it.


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By TBlom
Dec 9, 2013

Some plan drawings for my buddies garage wall. We will be using panels that have been rotated around between 2-3 other walls over the last 12 years. Kind of nice to recycle and keep the history alive from some past walls. His garage is pretty small, so one main idea is to build a low box that doubles as a storage closet.
So far the plan is to have a suspended butt-dragger start box, a lot of horizontal wall mounted to exposed and sistered rafters. A few vert walls filling in the gaps (dude has a kid), and some 15* overhung walls for crimp/sloper work. One 8 foot wall may be built as an adjustable for use as a system board.
Anyway, just a start... looking forward to building something fun instead of framing someone's 3 million dollar house!


garage1
garage1

rough perspective of the west corner


garage2
garage2

Side view detail


garage3
garage3

Side view detail


garage4
garage4

Side view detail


garage5
garage5

Side view detail


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By Chimi
Jan 9, 2014

Guys and Gals,

Just wanted to remind you to get your permitting stuff done if applicable to where you live. I built my wall without requesting a permit AFTER having read the rules for permit exempt structures and designing it within the allowable constraints of a playground/playset, shed, etc. type of structure and deciding that it was okay to do. The county, at least for now, refuses to classify it as a playset. I have no clue what else it would be classified as it certainly seems in spirit very similar to a playset. Some playsets even have climbing walls on them!

Just a few words of caution!


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By CornCob
From Omaha, NE
Jan 9, 2014

Chimi wrote:
Guys and Gals, Just wanted to remind you to get your permitting stuff done if applicable to where you live.


Has anyone had any problems with something like this? Does this only apply to external/stand-alone structures?


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By Mile9
From Logan
Jan 10, 2014
kirk

Chimi wrote:
Guys and Gals, Just wanted to remind you to get your permitting stuff done if applicable to where you live. I built my wall without requesting a permit AFTER having read the rules for permit exempt structures and designing it within the allowable constraints of a playground/playset, shed, etc. type of structure and deciding that it was okay to do. The county, at least for now, refuses to classify it as a playset. I have no clue what else it would be classified as it certainly seems in spirit very similar to a playset. Some playsets even have climbing walls on them! Just a few words of caution!


So what has happened? Is your wall now condemned by the county? I'd assume almost all home walls are under the radar of the inspector, unless maybe you go to sell your house or get a building permit for something else and they see it. How did the county get wind of yours and what has the outcome been?


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By Chimi
Jan 11, 2014

Mile9 wrote:
So what has happened? Is your wall now condemned by the county? I'd assume almost all home walls are under the radar of the inspector, unless maybe you go to sell your house or get a building permit for something else and they see it. How did the county get wind of yours and what has the outcome been?


It is not condemned by the county. I am in the process of talking to the inspector about permitting and wind/load calculations. The only reason the county knows about it is because the sue-happy neighbor complained to the county about it. (She has attempted/threatened to sue 3 other people on our street in the past).

Having read the requirements for it to be a permit exempt structure, I thought it would classify as a playground like I have seen in some other posts/situations online. Specifically, they are saying that it is not a playground, but they have yet to tell me the exact reason. So far, it is just an 'unconventional building' and thus needs to have proper inspections ($ for them), calculations ($ for them), and permits ($ for them). It is strange to me because you can buy a play structure with climbing surfaces on them without problem. I even asked what the difference is, and the inspector replied that MOST of the time, the commercially available sets are already inspected for wind/lateral load, so the safety/inspection argument goes out the door in my mind.

This is not legal advice in anyway, but it seems like you have two options depending on where you live. 1. Build it and hope nobody complains. 2. Try and get it permitted beforehand (and hope they don't try to screw you with permit prices).


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By MJMobes
From The land of steady habits
Jan 11, 2014
modern man

Chimi- Coming from someone who deals with permits and inspection on a regular basis I have to say DO NOT LET THEM PUSH YOU AROUND!!! Sometimes you just have to tell them to talk to your lawyer even if you dont have one. Unless you live in a podunk town where the building officials need something to pass their time they will go away.

Hearing you talk about having to calculate wind load for the permit is one of the funniest things I have heard in a while. I get they dont want sheets of plywood flying around the neighborhood during storms but at the same time you dont want panels coming off on you while you climb.

Many a time I have been harassed for doing work to my own home when I knew I did not need a permit. They sometimes overstep their authority and in your case I'm sure they have. Not once have I been fined or had a stop work order issued.

Its still worth it to be civil when dealing with them, even if you have to "lawyer up", offer them a cup of coffee and a donut if they come by again, coffee and donuts make govt workers very happy.


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