By nbrown From western NC Jun 13, 2012
| | Single car garage woody. Lots of home-made real rock holds. Submitted By: nbrown on Jun 13, 2012
| |  FLAG |
By Don McGrath From fort collins, CO Jun 14, 2012
| Here is a video of people climbing at my basement gym.
|  FLAG |
By Darren Mabe From Flagstaff, AZ Jun 22, 2012
| Crackboard back in business:
| Crackboard range Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Jun 22, 2012
| |  FLAG |
By DLC Jun 23, 2012
| Lucky enough to have a climber for a landlord and a carpenter for a climbing partner...
| 11x17 feet Submitted By: DLC on Jun 23, 2012
|
| Fingerboard and mini-campus board under construction Submitted By: DLC on Jun 23, 2012
| |  FLAG |
By Doug Lintz From Kearney, NE Jun 23, 2012
| Redid the left half last week. It now has a 4 foot kicker at about 7° overhang transitioning into 10 feet of roughly 20° overhang. Because of the differing angles I need to add some transitions between the two halves so there's no 90° edges to grab. Next up will be completing the wall on the right and filling in the corner.
| End of phase 1 Submitted By: Doug Lintz on Jun 23, 2012
|
| End of phase 1 Submitted By: Doug Lintz on Jun 23, 2012
| |  FLAG |
By coldatom From Cambridge, MA Jul 28, 2012
| Built this with my wife in our tiny urban backyard. It took 4 full days of work. 8' by 8' angled wall on top of a 2'x8' footboard. The angle is fully adjustable.
| Backyard wall Submitted By: coldatom on Jul 28, 2012
| The wall is held up by a rope that zig-zags between the wall and a cross beam. The tension is held by a prusik, which makes angle adjustment quick, and backed up by tying off the slack. One tarp is fixed across the back, while another can be pulled over the top.
| Rear view of tarps and suspension. Submitted By: coldatom on Jul 28, 2012
| Wood blocks at fixed angles back up the rope suspension, but the angle can be set anywhere.
| side view of wall Submitted By: coldatom on Jul 28, 2012
| The front tarp can quickly be thrown over the back of the wall to gain access, or attached to the PVC poles if you want to climb in the rain.
| Tarped wall Submitted By: coldatom on Jul 28, 2012
| And here is the CAD design.
| CAD design, front view. Submitted By: coldatom on Jul 31, 2012
|
| CAD design, rear view. Submitted By: coldatom on Jul 31, 2012
| |  FLAG |
By Matt Roberts From Columbus, OH Aug 2, 2012
| Sorry not to have posted an update since page 6. Here's how it turned out, with holds and a volume. It is set as symmetrically as my hold purchases will allow, as we use it mostly for training. It gets enough use that we put in a heater last fall so we could use it during the winter. As much as it pains me, this summer has made me consider AC, as well. :-(
|  FLAG |
By Matt Roberts From Columbus, OH Aug 2, 2012
| coldatom, do you think that your design would work ok w/ three panels instead of 2, i.e. 12' across by 8' tall? |  FLAG |
By coldatom From Cambridge, MA Aug 2, 2012
| Matt Roberts wrote: coldatom, do you think that your design would work ok w/ three panels instead of 2, i.e. 12' across by 8' tall? Structurally, I think so. I might want to beef up the cross bar on the freestanding frame. However, the weight will make it less convenient to adjust the angle (not to mention assemble). As it is, I need assistance to raise the angle once it is more than 30° overhanging. I have someone push as I pull in the rope. That said, I don't find the width to be a limiting factor. I would maybe add 2-4' in height, titled more vertical by 20-30°, so its like climbing out of a roof. |  FLAG |
By CJD Aug 3, 2012
| I'm getting ready to build a free standing outdoor woody and I'm looking for advice from folks who have experience climbing on them. I'm looking for advice on the best/most fun design features to include and what not to do. I want it to be fun and good training without getting boring. I'm not that interested in horizontal roofs since I rarely climb stuff like that but I want to build power and lock off strength. I want it to mimic real bouldering as much as possible. What features are a must? What would you do differently? What is your single most fun or useful thing I should consider in my design? What I have is four 10' 4X4 posts embedded 2' in the ground in concrete in a 8'X12' rectangle. I'm going to build a shed in the middle with the climbing walls around it. I want to be able to traverse around it and have varying angled walls. I plan to build 12' walls on the long sides and walls that are 8' at the base that will expand to meet the angled 12'walls as they get taller. I have good construction skills so can make almost anything work. Thanks, Chris |  FLAG |
By Luke Wilken From Cincinnati, OH Aug 22, 2012
| | The start of something beautiful Submitted By: Luke Wilken on Aug 22, 2012
| So I've just moved in to my campus duplex and started a little project in the basement... The final structure is going to be a full free-standing cave. My original design was a small 45d 8' wide 7' tall single face, but with the help of a friend with bigger dreams and convincing me to dig deeper into my pockets it has really evolved... Some of the upcoming features... wedge volume running the length of the roof (to incase the large pipe shown) large triangle volume coming off the 45d pitch of the roof supports Crack feature in backright corner This is our progress after day 1 |  FLAG |
By Monomaniac Administrator From Morrison, CO Aug 22, 2012
| Nice work. Looks like you have a nice space to work with. I'm impressed you got all that done in one day. Your framing is a bit unconventional, though. A few suggestions: normally the joists are spaced much more closely (12" for 2x4, 16" for 2x6), oriented vertically, and the 2-by dimension is oriented to face the plywood. |  FLAG |
By jjhellstrom From dayton, oh Aug 22, 2012
| Here is a video of the wall and a shameless plug for my little stud. Chalk really works:-) |  FLAG |
By skeeter From Lakewood CA Aug 22, 2012
| coldatom, i made a similar wall awhile back that is adjustable. how is yours holding up at the base of the adjustable portion of the wall?
| side 1 Submitted By: skeeter on Aug 22, 2012
|
| side 2 Submitted By: skeeter on Aug 22, 2012
| since these photos, I have painted the wall, added more holds,put hangers on the wall to practice hanging and clipping (and teaching my kid to lead climb) and reinforced the base because pressure cracks were beginning to form (the reinforcements seem to have worked). Although the wall is adjustable on the chains it does not shake at all. |  FLAG |
By Luke Wilken From Cincinnati, OH Sep 10, 2012
| So I've just about finished the framework and I'm wondering the best way to do face and paint the wall? I'm probably going to drill all my holes, then paint a base coat and possibly airbrush work, then install the T-nuts for the cleanest look/easiest assembly. Wondering if painting before adding the T-nuts will make that a hastle or what, also what do you guys think for T-nut density? |  FLAG |
By Monty From Morrison, Co Sep 10, 2012
| > THAT KID IS AWESOME!!!!!
|  FLAG |
By done77 Sep 10, 2012
| Darren that looks awesome... I think I'm gonna have to replicate that! |  FLAG |
By Jeff swear From hesperia, ca Sep 18, 2012
| Just finished mine three days ago. 8x8 wall with kicker and small roof portion. Used Three ball climbing holds. The wall is a 25 degree angle.
|  FLAG |
By Michael Dickinson From Park City, ut Sep 18, 2012
| All righty then... I will start construction on my wall tonight. As I live in an apartment I will go with as much of a free standing wall as possible. Thank you all for showing your woodies to me....wait, what? |  FLAG |
By Will S From Joshua Tree Sep 18, 2012
| Monomaniac wrote: Your framing is a bit unconventional, though. That's a nice way to say it. Lots of baffling things going on there, but looks like it will be a fun little cave...might be like climbing in an earthquake with the flex, or you might keep popping screw heads or t-nuts...good reason to get light I guess. I really like what Matt Roberts has up there. Ideally it would have one more 4'x8' panel higher (basically the Moon system board), so you could get another couple moves, but the symmetrical setup is what I would do if confined to a 8' width. |  FLAG |
By Genghis314 Sep 19, 2012
| A group of us at a deployed location found an old empty Conex box and enough wood laying around to build a decent little woody inside the Conex box. With a few split unit A/C units and a few boxes of holds we've got a pretty decent bouldering area in the land of sand.
| Woody in a box Submitted By: Genghis314 on Sep 19, 2012
|
| Woody in a box 2 Submitted By: Genghis314 on Sep 19, 2012
| |  FLAG |
By Woodchuck ATC Sep 19, 2012
| Genghis314 wrote: A group of us at a deployed location found an old empty Conex box and enough wood laying around to build a decent little woody inside the Conex box. With a few split unit A/C units and a few boxes of holds we've got a pretty decent bouldering area in the land of sand. Nice job! I sent a box of holds to Afghanistan several years ago that got used on a night vision climbing wall there. Was very cool to see. |  FLAG |
By Michael Dickinson From Park City, ut Sep 19, 2012
| Darren Mabe wrote: Crackboard back in business: As I am just starting to build my trad rack, are passive pieces difficult to remove from the 2x4 cracks? |  FLAG |
By Kenny Clark From State College, PA Sep 22, 2012
| I just finished framing my wall. Now I just need to put the T-nuts in the plywood, and put the plywood on the framing. I have a question though, and I couldn't find the answer in the forums, so I thought I'd post here. A little background: I have an outdoor wall under my new deck. I don't really want to paint it if I don't have to though (maybe I'm just being lazy....). I've heard about the golf tees, and that doesn't really sound ideal, so if I need to do it, I want to do it before I put in the T-nuts, which will be soon. Has anyone not painted their outdoor woody and later regretted it? I have some leftover stain from the deck; has anyone stained their plywood? Were you happy with the results? |  FLAG |
|