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What do you have on your self-rescue carabiner?

Original Post
Bob Johnson · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 192

Hello Everyone!
I'm curious to know what everyone has on their self-rescue carabiner! Here is what I use:

Petzl Attache Carabiner (round cross section)
Prussik
Tibloc
Trango Barracuda Knife
Petzl Micro Traxion (such a cool little pulley!!!)

What do you have?

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

old oval carabiner
1-2 rap rings
tibloc
2 long prussik loops
smaller locker / autoblock
small knife
20ft of 1" tubular webbing

Think that's about it. pretty simple

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

Nothing

I use the gear i have already

;)

Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175

Beat to hell Camp Nano biner:
2 nicely coiled prusik cords
Testosterone

matt c. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 155

just a knife.

I use a one foot piece of cord for my keeper for my nut tool. This chord is the top piece of my ascending system. I tie my chalk bag on with another 3 or 4 foot cord (pre-tied with double fishers). This is the bottom piece of them ascending system and also doubles as a bail sling.

Likeasummerthursday · · Las Vegas, Nevada · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 90

Two quick links
Knife
Tibloc
Two long prusiks

All on a small locker.

I climb multi-pitch with a Grigri 2 unless I'm climbing with a party of 3, in which case Ill take a Reverso or ATC Guide as well.

I don't carry anything else that I don't already have on my harness, like extra biners. Perhaps not strictly in the self-rescue category, but quick links are lighter, take up less space and can be put on existing slings/ hardware and 'lock'. If I need something else I already have it and can leave it behind (extra biners, lockers, etc...) I can rap, belay, lower on a munter or use biners--- they don't have to be oval either.

Why do y'all carry oval biners?

Ed Wright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2006 · Points: 285

A tibloc and a small prussic cord. I keep my blade clipped elsewhere.

Likeasummerthursday · · Las Vegas, Nevada · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 90
matt c. wrote:just a knife. I use a one foot piece of cord for my keeper for my nut tool. This chord is the top piece of my ascending system. I tie my chalk bag on with another 3 or 4 foot cord (pre-tied with double fishers). This is the bottom piece of them ascending system and also doubles as a bail sling.
Oh, yeah, I do the same with my chalk bag.
BigFeet · · Texas · Joined May 2014 · Points: 385

I probably overdue it but such is my nature.

Carabiner setup:
Metolius Bravo locker
Petzl S.S. quick link
Prusik loop (6' loop of 6mm acc. cord)
Trango Piranha

Chalk bag w/pocket setup:
6mm acc. cord belt (prusik)
Petzl e+LITE headlamp
Razor blade
Petzl S.S. quick link
Metolius Bravo wiregate
Mammut 30cm sling

John Farrell · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 85
bearbreeder wrote:Nothing I use the gear i have already ;)
Pretty much the same here, I do have a prusik cord or two in my pockets. I do have a double length nylon sling twisted up on a carabiner. It's my "PAS" for rappeling or gets used for extending if I am out of my dyneema ones.
Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520
bearbreeder wrote:Nothing I use the gear i have already ;)
That sounds quite elegant to me.
hikingdrew · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 38

Bail kit on small locker:
rap ring
6'worth of supertape knotted as a runner
small knife

Self rescue on another small locker:
prussiks

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
bearbreeder wrote:Nothing I use the gear i have already ;)
I'd rather leave an an old oval or a few dollar rap ring that I bought with a dividend than my "better" gear. Of course that means I have an extra half pound I have to carry around.

And I use oval biners cuz I have a bunch of old ones that I use to rack nuts, tri cams or bail. Biners I wouldn't want to put on regular use rack, but I'd rap off them for sure.
bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
Scott McMahon wrote: I'd rather leave an an old oval or a few dollar rap ring that I bought with a dividend than my "better" gear. Of course that means I have an extra half pound I have to carry around.
i use lockers that are starting to get grooved for clipping things like shoes to the harness ... thats the "bail biner"

and that shoulder sling? ... make it out of 1" webbing, itll be comfortable enough and cheap for rap tat

chalk bag cord? ... 7mm, use a blakes hitch to secure it so that its adjustable, and take it apart for rap tat or a prusik

ascender? ... use a guide plate in autoblock

prussik cord? ... learn the kleimheist/hedden and use slings

no prussiks at all? ... learn the belay escapes using the penberthy as a friction hitch

the failure of alot of self rescue as its practice IMO is that most folks practice it with quite a bit of gear ... forget or drop you self rescue biner and you might be screwed

just like one practices munters, carabiner brakes, etc ... one should practice self rescue with minimal gear at a certain point

the most important self rescue tool? ... headlamp ... and the cell phone (or spot/PLB) ... other than the gray matter between your ears and the skills you constantly practice that is

;)
Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

Well bearbreeder my friend. There is no doubt your climbing game is on point. Appreciate all the info you post on the MP threats.

John Farrell · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 85
bearbreeder wrote: i use lockers that are starting to get grooved for clipping things like shoes to the harness ... thats the "bail biner" and that shoulder sling? ... make it out of 1" webbing, itll be comfortable enough and cheap for rap tat chalk bag cord? ... 7mm, use a blakes hitch to secure it so that its adjustable, and take it apart for rap tat or a prusik ascender? ... use a guide plate in autoblock prussik cord? ... learn the kleimheist/hedden and use slings no prussiks at all? ... learn the belay escapes using the penberthy as a friction hitch the failure of alot of self rescue as its practice IMO is that most folks practice it with quite a bit of gear ... forget or drop you self rescue biner and you might be screwed just like one practices munters, carabiner brakes, etc ... one should practice self rescue with minimal gear at a certain point the most important self rescue tool? ... headlamp ... and the cell phone (or spot/PLB) ... other than the gray matter between your ears and the skills you constantly practice that is ;)
You forgot your shoe laces for prusik cords, I saw it once in a James Bond film, so it must be real.
Patrick Shyvers · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 10

To those of you who carry Tiblocs on your rescue biner (I do too), it should inform your carabiner choice.

Tibloc carabiner selection

Ovals are the perfect choice.

hikingdrew · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 38
John Farrell wrote: You forgot your shoe laces for prusik cords, I saw it once in a James Bond film, so it must be real.
That's why you should lace your shoes with 5mm accessory cord. I prefer Sterling..
Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175

ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

the internet

matt c. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 155

so have you ever used your shoelaces in a climbing capacity?

please, do tell.

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490
bearbreeder wrote:Nothing I use the gear i have already ;)
+1
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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